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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2010 Toyota Highlander

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2010 Toyota Highlander


Speaker 1: Today on our 2010 Toyota Highlander we're going to be taking a look and showing you how to install the Tekonsha Primus IQ trailer brake controller, part number TK90160. To help us with our installation we're going to be using the universal installation kit for brake controllers, part number ETBC7. Here's what our brake controller looks like fully installed. We chose to mount ours here on the kick panel right underneath our dash. Now this is a proportional brake controller, and what that means is it's going to activate our trailer brakes based on thee deceleration of our vehicle. It's going to activate immediately without any timed delay.Our brake controller is going to feature a nice easy to read display.

As you can see here, it has the C, which it means it knows that there's a trailer connected. Now our brake controller, since it is proportional, it has an internal sensor that's going to detect the slowing down on our vehicle. Now, we can mount this all the way up to 90 degrees in a vertical plane, so long as it's level and facing the direction of travel with our vehicle.Now our brake controller has three different boost settings. There's going to be boost off, one, two, and three. Now they are going to progressively get more aggressive and the boost levels are there to adjust initial braking power and aggressiveness.

Now it's also going to feature a slider style manual override right here. Now this is going to be easy to operate and it's going to be right here in case of an emergency situation where we have to apply the brakes for our trailer, but not our vehicle.Now with the boost turned off, if I slide my manual override lever all the way over, this knob here is going to be our gain setter. Right now it's at the lowest setting. If we raise up all the way, the display is going to display, in voltage, how much power is getting sent to our trailer brakes. We can lower it back down all the way to where they're not being applied at all.Now our Primus IQ is going to feature integrated safeguards to protect the vehicle and the trailer.

It's going to minimize drain on the vehicle's battery when it's not in use and also it's going to reduce power and output during the prolonged stops to prevent our trailer brakes from overheating. Now if we don't have our trailer connected, we're going to know right away on our display. If I hit my manual override, I'm going to get a message that pops up that says NC, for not connected. Now our Primus IQ is designed to work with electric trailer brakes only.Our brake control is going to be sending a signal to our seven way at the back of our vehicle, that's going to be hooked up to our trailer. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how we get it installed.To begin our installation we're going to need to find a spot to mount our seven way connector.

Now we have a bracket that's included in our kit that we can mount our seven way to, and fortunately we have a short bracket mounted to our hitch that we can mount this to. Now if you don't have a short bracket, you can pick one up on our website using part number 18140. We're going to take our bracket right here, and I'm going to line up the holes on my bracket attached to my hitch, I'm going to drop my hardware down, now I can attach lock nuts to the bottom. Now we're going to take our wires from our seven way connector and I'm going to slide them through the big hole, get my connector in place, now our holes are going to line up with the holes in the bracket.We can take the provided flathead screws and start putting them in place. Now on the backside of our connector, I'm going to take the lock nut and attach it to the screw. Now once we have all in place we can come back and tighten it down. Now I'm going to use a flathead screwdriver, hold my screw in place, and I'm going to take a nine millimeter socket, and tighten up the back nut. We're going to tighten up all the remaining hardware on our connector here.Now at the back of our seven way we're going to have a four pole flat here. I do want to mention, in order to hook everything up, we're going to need to have a four pole flat already in our vehicle. Now before I make this connection, I'm going to put a little bit of dielectric grease in my connector, and that's just going to help keep out some of the moisture, and any corrosion build up. Go ahead and plug in my four pole. Since this is going to be a semipermanent connection, I'm going to take a zip tie, I'm going to go around both the connectors, and zip tie to secure it on place, and then I'm going to come back with a little bit of electrical tape and cover it up.Now we're going to have several wires coming off the back of our connector. Now we're going to put our attention to the white wire here that has the ring terminal on it. Now we're going to need to route this close to where our wiring is coming from just so that it's out the way, but we're going to need to find a bare metal spot that we can take a self tapping screw, and ground this to. I think if we look up underneath our bumper here, we have a nice flat spot, we can ground it right here. I'm going to take the provided self tapping screw, and using a 3/8 nut driver, or socket, I'm going to screw it right into the frame right here.Now before we start dealing with our other wires, I want to mention that our kit is going to come with some butt connectors already connected and some butt connectors in the kit. Now I'm going to be replacing these butt connectors with some heat shrink butt connectors to help protect our wires a little bit better, and just have a little bit more corrosion resistance. Now, you can pick these up on our website using part number DW05745-10 and that will be for a pack of 10.We should have three wires left in the back of our connector. We'll have a purple wire, a blue wire, and a black wire. Now the purple wire we're not going to be using, so I'm just going to set this aside for right now. The black and blue wire we are going to be using, so I'm going to be cutting the connector off of here and replacing it. We're going to strip back a little bit of the end on each wire. Then I can take my yellow butt connectors and I can crimp them into place. We're going to put on connector on each one of our wires here.We're going to need to grab our duplex wire that's going to have the two wires inside the gray sleeve. Now, you're going to want to split open the sleeve here, and the easiest way to do that is you put it on a flat surface, and if you take a razor knife, you can see where the two wires are separated right in the middle. I'm just going to take my knife and very carefully slice down right the middle, trying not to cut the wire itself, to separate the gray sleeve. Then I can peel it back, exposing the wire.Now we can strip back the end of our black wire and our white wire here. Now our black wire we're going to connect to the black wire coming off the back of our connector. Then finally, the blue wire, we're going to connect to the white wire in our duplex cable. Now I'm going to be using a heat gun to shrink down my connectors. I just want to mention, if you're using an open flame, you want to be extra careful not to char the wires or the connector itself.Now we're going to need to run our gray duplex wire up to the front of the vehicle, towards the battery. Now everybody is going to route it a little bit differently, and also we're going to need to clean up our wires. Now, I'm going to go ahead and route this now, and clean up my wires at the end, and then I'll show you how I ran this. I ran my wire towards the front, right here, went over my axle, came down right by the fuel tank, went along the frame here, went underneath this cover, then I have it come down right here. Now we're going to need to go up to the top underneath the hood so we can pull this wire through.Now as I mentioned, we're going to have to have our wire come to our battery. Now I'm going to be using a piece of airline tube that I had laying around, I'm going to feed it down, attach it to my wire, so I can pull it up. Now if you don't have any airline tube, you can use anything you have available such as a coat hanger, or anything that's going to keep its structure while you push it down. I just want to mention, you want to stay away from any heat sources like the exhaust, or any moving parts like the drive shaft, or the steering column. Feed this down and then we can go back down underneath the car and attach our wire.Here's where my airline tube came out. I'm going to take my gray duplex wire here, I'm actually going to tape it to the end of my pull wire. That way I don't lose it when I start pulling it towards the top. We want to make sure we pull the slack out of our wire. It's always a good idea to go back underneath and make sure there's no kinks or tangles. Now I put a zip tie here to anchor my wire down, that way it doesn't fall back down, but now we're going to need to come back to the end of the wire, and we're nearly going to split this open as far back to our anchor as possible. I just want to remind you, you want to be extra careful not to break your wire, just slowly start peeling back the insulation around the two wires.Now I'm going to take my white wire and I'm actually going to set it aside right now. I'm going to focus on my black wire here. Now we're going to need to install a breaker in between our wire and our positive side of our battery. I'm going to mount my breaker right here just to make sure that I have enough room for my wire, I'll give my self a little bit of extra. I can go ahead and cut my wire. I'm going to strip back the end of it. The excess wire that we just cut off, we're going to go ahead and hold on to that, because we are going to be reusing it. Now I'm going to take one of the small ring terminals provided in our kit and I'm going to crimp it in place.Now that I have my ring terminal in place, I'm going to put it aside, and then I'm going to get read to mount my breaker. Now before I mount it, I want to mention if you look very closely, we're going to have labels for each post. Now the copper, or gold, colored post is going to have BAT next to it, and that's the post that's going to be going towards the battery. Now the silver post is where we're going to attach our ring terminal onto the auxiliary section right here. Now we're going to be installing the 40 amp breaker onto the black wire that we ran from our seven way on the back.Now I can take one of the self tapping screws, and screw it into place, and secure it to the firewall. I'll go ahead and put a second one here to make sure it's nice and secure. I'm going to remove the nut off of the silver post. I'm going to install our ring terminal and then replace the nut. I'm going to be using a 3/8 socket to tighten up the nut. Now I'm going to take a piece of my black wire that I just, and I'm going to estimate about how much I'm going to need to run over to the positive side of my battery. Should be good right about here. I can go ahead and cut it, and strip back both ends. Now on one end, we're going to be putting a large ring terminal and on the other end we're going to put another small one like we just did on the other wire. I do want to mention, also, the wire we just cut off, go ahead and save that, because we are going to use it again.Go ahead and take the small ring terminal and we're going to take the nut off of the gold post on our breaker here. Install the ring terminal on the post and replace the nut. Now we're not going to attach the large ring terminal to our positive side of our battery just yet, so we're going to leave this just right here for now.We now come back to our white wire. Now this wire, if you remember, we connected it to our blue wire coming off the seven way connector at the back. We're going to need to run this inside the cabin of the car, but the way the firewall is set up is we don't have any good spot here on the drivers side. I'm going to run my wire across, and there's a grommet that we can reach on the inside of the passenger door.If we come to our passenger seat we're going to follow the carpet all the way up, right underneath our glove box here. There's going to be a rubber grommet just right past the carpet and right past the insulation. Now we're going to use that spot to push a piece of airline tube through and then we can fish our wire from there. I'm going to take my airline tube, I'm going to push the grommet out of the way, and go around it for now. I'm going to reach down and grab the piece of airline tube that was sticking out. It's going to that grommet down here. Now I can take the end of my white wire, I'm going to feed it into my airline tube, and then secure it with some tape so I won't lose it when I start pulling my airline tube back through.You're going to want to pull all the slack into the inside of the car. Don't disconnect the airline tube from your wire yet, because I'm actually going to take my airline tube and go behind the dash here, so I can reach the drivers side. We're just going to push it through until it comes out on the other side, then we can pull our wires right through. Now we need to bring the harness that's going to connect to our brake controller, and we're going to estimate about where we're going to mount it. We're going to mount ours in this general vicinity right here, so I'm going to estimate that about here would be good to make my cut, so I can make my connections. I'm going to cut my white wire right about here and I'm going to strip back the end of it.I'm going to take one my yellow butt connectors and I'm going to crimp it in place. Now I'm going to take my harness for my brake controller and I'm going to connect the blue wire into that connector. Now we are going to need to make a few more connections. We're going to have to run our white wire to a ground, our black wire is going to run back out to our vehicle's battery, and our red wire is going to go to our brake switch. Now, we don't have quite enough wire, so you can pick some more up, and you'll get 10 feet of wire if you use part number ETBCXW. Now I already pulled the gray sleeve off of both of my wires, and now I'm going to strip back both ends. I'm going to crimp a yellow butt connector onto each one of my wires.Now my white wire, I'm going to come to the back of my brake controller harness again. I'm going to attach it to my other white wire. The black wire is going to connect to the other black wire. Now like I said before, we're going to need to run our white and black wire, we're going to run it back over to the passenger's side, and out the grommet that we used before. I'm going to take my airline tube and start feeding it over to the passenger's side. Once we have our wires over here, we're going to leave our wires attached to our airline tube, and I'm actually going to send my airline tube back out the hole that we originally came in.Now we're going to need to ground our white wire. Now we have a factor ground right here. Now to get this bolt off, I'm actually going to be using a 10 millimeter ratchet wrench because of the limited clearance here. Then I can cut my wire and strip back the end of it. I'm going to, again, take one of the large ring terminals, I'm going to crimp it into place. Now I can reinstall the bolt through my ring terminal and through the factor grounds.Now we're going to route our black wire over to the driver's side, going along the firewall here. Now we're going to need to mount another 20 amp breaker, and we're going to be attaching our black wire to the silver post right here, just like we did on our other breaker. I'm going to take some more self tapping screws and mount my breaker right here on the firewall. Again, I'm going to estimate about how much wire I need, so right about here should be okay. I'm going to cut my wire and strip back the end of it. Now we are going to keep this piece that we just cut off, because that's going to run from our copper post to the positive side of our battery. Now we can take one of the provided smaller ring terminals and crimp it into place.Now we remove the nut off of our breaker, install our ring terminal, and replace the nut. Now our extra piece of wire here I'm going to strip back both ends. On one end I'm going to crimp into place a small ring terminal and the other end I'm going to put in one of the larger ring terminals. Now the small ring terminal, again, I'm going to put on the copper post of my breaker here. Now the other end of our wire will go to a positive post of our battery, but we're going to leave that just disconnected for right now.Now if we move back to the inside of our vehicle where our brake controller harness is, we're still going to have one red wire. Now I mentioned this is going to be going to brake signal. Now we're going to need to go underneath the dash and I'm going to follow my brake pedal up until I find the electrical connector. Now with everything still connected, I'm going to test each one of the wires connected, and you only want to get a 12 volt power source when the brake pedal is depressed. That's going to be the cold side of the brake switch. Now I'll let you know which wire I found is the one we need to use.Now underneath I found if we find the blue wire that's coming off of our brake switch, here I have my tester piercing the wire right now, and you can tell there's no sound, and the lights not on my tester. If I hit my brake pedal, it's going to show me that I am getting a 12 volt power source, so this is going to be the wire we're going to want to use. What I'm going to do is, is I'm going to cut my blue wire in half, I'm going to strip both ends of it, and then I'm going to connect my red wire, along with part of the blue wire, together, and then butt connect it back together. Now this is going to be a little bit difficult to see, so let me get this done, and then I'll show you the end result. This is what your connection should look like when your done. Your blue is going to need to be cut in half and then we're going to combine our blue and red wire together, and connect it back to the blue wire.Now we're going to need to find a spot to mount our brake controller itself. Now since our wires are right here, this seems like it would be a good spot to mount it. The only thing I want to mention is that our brake controller, it needs to be facing the direction the vehicle is going, and it needs to be level. We can have it up to 90 degrees, up and down, but we can't have it on an angle, or an uneven surface. We can come to the front, on the sides, pull out on the tabs, and it will release it. We can set our brake controller aside when we get ready to mount the mount to our dash. Now there's going to be two holes underneath and we're going to take a couple of the provided self tapping screws and drill it right into our dash.I do want to mention you want to double check and see if there's anything behind where you're mounting, because you don't want to drill into any wires, or any lines in your dash. Now we can come to the back of our brake controllers, we can plug in our harness, so it locks into place, now we can take the back of it, slide it into position, open up the tabs on the side, and lock it into place.Now we're going to come to the positive side of our battery post and I'm going to be removing the nut, I'm going to be using a 12 millimeter socket. Now we can take our ring terminals from our breakers and we can attach them to the post on our battery, now we can reinstall the nut. Now all we have to do is tidy up all our wires underneath the engine, and behind the vehicle at the back as well. Now here at the back I just tied up all my wires and then I took the supplied wiring loom that comes in our kit, took all my wires, wrapped them with some electrical tape and the loom, and then tied up the excess up behind the bumper. Now under the hood here, I just gathered my wires right here, and zip tied them to factor wiring, and then my wires that I had running across the firewall here, I put some wire loom, and I attached it using some loom clamps until I reached the other side.Now you can pick up some of this wire loom, it's half inch diameter and it will be by the foot using part number 459075-1. Now the loom clamps you can pick up, they're half in loom clamps, and it's going to be part number A0500 and that's one a piece. Now underneath my dash I just took my wires, and I zip tied it to some existing wiring underneath, so that way it won't interfere with my pedals or get in the way.Now before we finish everything up I'm going to hook my tester up and make sure that all my lights and my brake controller is working properly. Now with an extra set of hands, I'll have someone go up to the front and run our lights for us. Now we can see that our clearance lights are working, which is good. Now let's see if our left turn signal is working. Okay, now our right turn signal, and our brakes. Now what about a brake and a left turn signal Right turn signal Now can you hit the manual override on the brake controller Everything looks good, we're ready to hit the road.That will finish up the look at the Tekonsha Primus IQ trailer brake controller, part number TK90160 on our 2010 Toyota Highlander.


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