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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Rate your transcript OrderClientKevin BrossRef #20553Order #TC0786509771 Today on our 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we're going to install part number 90885. This is the part number 90885 part number 90885. This is the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller. Now to help us with our install, we're also going to use part number ETBC7 and we'll work with that with the majority of the time. Starting at the back of our jeep, we'll go ahead and remove our 4-pole flat that's preexisting on the vehicle. This is a factory Tow Package 1 2, where it will slip out of its bracket because our ETBC7 wire harness will plug into this and then we'll come back out with 7-pole and a new 4-pole.

We'll just set this down out of the way for now. Next we'll go ahead and mount our 7-pole bracket. There are two ways we can do this. One way is we can go ahead and use an extra bracket and a clamp to the cross member right here, that will be part number 18136. Basically, we'll take the clamp and go over the cross member and back around. Take our bracket, hold up against the bottom here and try to clamp through and then tighten it down.

This way is to tighten up our clamp. We're going to start and make sure it's in the spot that you want and then we'll go ahead and tighten it down and we have a place to install our 7-pole bracket without having to drill into this. Alternately, you can use a number 10 self-tapping screw and drill into the cross member as well, that's what we're going to do in this case. We're going to run it up to the edge right here of the cross member and prepare it close to the line that will pass the preexisting bracket. We're going to mark our first hole and then drill it out. Now our bracket is sitting the way we want, we'll go ahead and install the second screw.

Now let's go and take our 7-pole connector, run the wires through the gap at the bottom of the bracket and we'll put it into place. Quick test it, it shows, that opens up just fine, we'll go ahead and install the hardware to 4 holes. The hardware does come with ETBC7 kit. Let's go ahead and make our first electrical connection. We'll go ahead and take the cap off of our 4-pole and we'll add this 4-pole from the 7-pole and plug these guys together. We also use some dielectric grease to help protect our contacts, we use part number 11755.

We also use some electrical tape to secure our connection here, this would be a semi-permanent connection. Next, we'll go ahead and work for our white white to ring terminal and our purple. Our white wire is going to be ground for all our circuits and our purple wire is the auxiliary circuit. Typically you can use it for reverse light or any other circuit you like to have it for. Let's go ahead and take our length and match it for our wires and go along our preexisting wire harness. We'll go ahead and ground our white wire. In this case, we're going to do it right here. Now, we'll be using the ground screw that comes with the kit, about number 14 size and we use a 3 8 bit on it. That's it for now, and then our last two wire will be our black and blue wires. In our black wire, will be used to our 12 volt power supply and our blue wire, we use for our output from our brake controller. We'll go ahead and take the gray cable that comes with the kit and we'll attach them to these wires, black to black and white to blue. Let's get our gray cable ready. We'll go ahead and cut the sheet back to get that out of our way and we strip our wires. We'll connect this up to our black and blue wires. Let's go ahead and use some electrical and secure our wires and give a little bit extra protection. We'll go ahead and start our initial run our gray cable that has to go up towards the front. Eventually, we'll go up to the 12-volt power supply. Wire is going to follow the factory wire harness and just go initially over the rear suspension. This is going to hang there for now, we'll twirl it up there later. We'll give a few loose wrap the electrical to bond these wires together and we'll put some loom material that comes with the kit to help hide the colors. We'll also continue on a wraps, just some loose wraps to help keep these wires together as well. We'll use some electrical tape on our awkward spot here around the butt connectors and we'll take this and attach to our factory harness with some zip ties. Now before it's all set and done, we probably run out of zip ties that come with the kit, it's always a good idea to buy extra zip ties when you do electrical work. Once we had these set up we'll go ahead and cut off our tails. Our turbine still at the back end of the jeep, now we'll go ahead and continue running our gray wire up towards the front. When we do this, we want to stay away from anything moving like suspension component or anything hot like the exhaust. When you get to the front, you want to stay away from the steering components as well. Now, what we're going to do is run our wire through the frame here because there's a lot of openings, to help us run it through we're going to use the old piece of airline tubing to run it through. This also could be any piece of wire that can hold its shape. We'll go ahead and get started and push it in there. We got our airline tubing that come out this hole here, then we'll go straight up after that. After we have our wire ran through the frame, we'll go ahead and zip tie our wire to existing wire harness and pieces on the frame. In this case it went over the cross member, disable the zip tie right here, continue on over this rear suspension and fuel end that line and we zip tie it to our brake line right here and we went to the frame after that. Now, we're going to take our wire harness and using our pull out one more time, the wire is going to go straight up into the engine compartment. We'll open up the hood and pull up our access. We'll go ahead and pull it up and we'll go ahead and tie it up to wire harness right here and we'll add some more wire loom to portion that goes around the frame by the wheel. We'll be using part number 459075-1. Just run it up there and pull it back down a little bit and we're good to go. We'll go ahead and take our gray cable and we're going to run it over to our battery now. We'll follow the existing wire harness along the firewall. Now we need to add some extra length there for a couple of circuit breakers that eventually need, and we're going to install those right here. We'll just run our cable through there and then back up to our positive of the battery. We'll go ahead and cut the length. Next, we'll go ahead and take our wire harness and we're going to split the sheet back. Using our black wire, it's going to run up for our 12-volt power supply for our 7-pole connector, that's going to its own circuit breaker. Our white wire is going to go to the inside of the vehicle for the output for the brake controller. Let's go ahead and split the wire back and we'll go ahead and mount our circuit breakers. Now, while we're in this corner we'll go ahead and take a white wire and run that to the inside so it will be out of the way. Our access will be at this point right here. You can see there's a crosscut, there's another rubber plug behind that so we'll go ahead and take a knife and poke a hole through it. Let's go ahead and push the length inside and we'll reach on that and pull the rest through. We'll go ahead and pull up our slack and we'll leave this alone for now. Just remember just alone white wire will be going to our blue wire on our brake controller eventually. Let's go ahead and take our single black wire here and go ahead and run it back across. Set that guy aside for now, let's go ahead and add our circuit breakers to this plastic right here. First, we'll go ahead and install our 40-amp circuit breaker. This circuit will be used to provide power for our trailer out back if needed. Next, for our brake controller we'll install the 20-amp circuit breaker. The ETBC7 comes with actually 3 of them, it just depends on the capacity of tow vehicle. In this case, we're only going to need a 20-amp circuit breaker. We'll overlap the two circuit breakers and run them both using only 3 screws. We are going through plastic so you don't have to take that much torque drilling to them. Let's go ahead and add some ring terminals for our wire that will go through our 40-amp circuit breaker and eventually to our positive post. We'll use two small ring terminal for here and a large one going to the post. This do come with the kit. At the very end of the wire we get the large ring terminal. Let's go ahead and make our connection to the circuit breaker and anything that's an accessory will go to the silver post and anything directly from the battery will go to the copper post. Now we're doing for power wire for now, let's go ahead and work for our wires for our brake controller. This is our leftover wire we had, typically you would use this wire to run from your brake controller back up to your battery, but in this case the battery is on the passenger side so it takes up basically all our cable. We're going to give another length to the cable. We're going to use part number ETBCXW which basically a 10-foot long extra wire for ETBC7 kit. Starting from our battery we'll go ahead and route our extra cable back to the inside where eventually our brake controller will be. Also make sure we have enough for our ground as well to our circuit breaker, so we'll go ahead and cut this much of the sheet off. We'll go ahead and cut this wire just like we did to our previous black wire, two small ring terminals and a large ring terminal that would go to our battery. Let's go ahead and add this into our circuit breaker. Going out to our battery, we'll go ahead and connect to the copper side of the circuit breaker. That will sit for now, and then going to our brake controller will go to our silver post. We'll go ahead and route our wire at an angle and we'll go ahead and tighten them up. We'll go ahead and take our wire, we just lay it with the first one, and we'll make this connection to the battery from the last seconds we do. Next, we'll go ahead and work for our white wire here for ground, eventually go this post right here. We'll go and put one of the larger ring terminals back onto it. We leave this guy alone for now as well. Let's go ahead and take our gray cable and run it back to the other side and then to the cattle of the jeep. We use the same spot as before and run the wire through the inside. Let's go ahead to the inside and pull out our excess. Now our wires are run, let's go ahead and secure them to the factory wire harness on the jeep. Give us some working room, let's go ahead and just pop off the cover to the engine. Once we're done securing our wires, we'll go ahead and cut off the tails. Let's go ahead and put our engine cover back into place. We're not going to need all this length of wire leftover, so we'll go ahead and cut it down to a more manageable length. Let's get our wires ready and we'll strip back the sheets on these two. We'll strip the wires back and add our butt connectors. Now let's get the wire harness out from our brake controller. This comes with the package with the P2. We'll go ahead and use some more loom material to help keep our wires under control. Our red wire is going eventually enter the stop light switch. Let's go ahead and peel that guy up and out of the way for now. We'll go ahead and work for the remaining three wires. Let's go ahead and work for our blue wire. Remember that's going to connect them to our alone white wire. This one is going to be color for color from here on now, so black to black and white to white for ground. Let's go ahead and use some tape to help secure these wires together and some loose wraps going up towards the firewall. Let's go ahead and turn our attention to our red wire here and we need to locate the cold side of the brake switch, so when we hit our brake go, the light is up, that's the wire we're looking for. We'll follow it up until we find the switch and then we'll go ahead and remove the electric tape around the wires. We'll spread them apart and we want to look for a white wire with brown stripe. We're using a quick splice connector to tap into our wire, that comes with the ETBC7 kit. Now through the harness, let's see what's going on underneath there so outside of the jeep we'll go ahead and show you how the quick splice connector works. Our yellow wire will be the wire we want to tap into, so we'll just snap our quick splice connector on top of it and the green wire is the one we're going to add into, so we'll slide it right next to it and a pair of pliers will squeeze down on the middle clip which will make the connection. We'll go ahead and check our work and verify the red wire has the brake signal. This little test here, it comes with the ETBC7 kit, so we'll use the factory ground here and check our red wire right here. When we hit the brake pedal it lights up. We'll go ahead and take our red wire and put it back up into a wire loom and then our brake controller will be installed about this location right here. We'll go ahead and leave the wire harness alone and install the pocket for the brake controller. Placing our brake controller is a personal preference, you can mount it pretty much in any direction you want in a circle as long as this is in a straight line with the center line of the vehicle. You don't want it sit in this way or this way, or this straight line front to back. Once you find a location for it, we'll go ahead and attach to the plastic. We're using an extra long of it and a sheet metal screw that comes with the kit. This part is going to the brake controller. I think we will wind up with this edge right here. Put one in your snug and then we'll do the other one. Let's go ahead and run our cables to the back of the pocket and we'll go ahead and plug it to the back of our brake controller. Stuff the brake controller back into the pocket and we'll take a moment to secure our wires and keep them up and out of the way. Let's go ahead and loosen up this nut here and we'll go ahead and use that to attach it for our power for our 12-volt power going out to our 7-pole. connector and our brake controller. We'll go ahead and hook up our ground wire to a negative post. The nut we're using doesn't come with either the kit or the jeep, this is part number 815916. With the power applied, let's go ahead and check our brake controller. Looks like we have two dots, so that's a good sign. One dot is going to be showing us the power is going to the brake controller, the other one is going to be our boost button. Our boost button is right here, we'll scroll through it to after B3 and then our dot will go away. We'll going to put back it up to B1, the original position. Then next you can see how we use the manual override. We move it and hear a click, it'll say NC for no connection. Let's go ahead and plug up our trailer to it and double check that it works. Now our trailer is hooked up, you have C for connection and when we move our manual override, you can see how it scrolls through the numbers so that's good. That's basically full power, if you don't need that much power, you spin this knob on the side right here to whatever level your trailer needs. We'll go ahead and check our brake signal and push on our brake pedal and see how the boost will kick in a little bit and you can see it shows up numbers. That will finish for our install part number 90885 from Tekonsha, on our 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. .



After purchasing the tekonsha, the wiring kit, etc., and installing everything using your video for the 2012 Jeep Wrangler video as a resource, my battery died the next morning. If I installed everything correctly, my guess is that the controller draws power if left plugged in. Your video doesn’t say anything about that however, so maybe I did something wrong. Can you help me troubleshoot why my battery died?

Jason S.


The Prodigy P2 # 90885 you referenced will have such a small power draw that simply saves your settings that when installed correctly won't drain your battery. It is much like your radio saving presets or the would take months of never being run to drain your battery. So, we have a power draw on your battery coming from somewhere. It could be that you tapped into the wrong end of your brake light switch. If you tapped into the constant power on your brake light switch versus the end that only gives power when the brake pedal is pressed that would send constant braking power output from your controller which would drain the battery. I'd start by checking that first. You can use a circuit tester like # PTW2992 to determine if there is constant power going to your brake controller or if it is only when the brake pedal is pressed.

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