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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2012 Toyota Highlander

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2012 Toyota Highlander

All right, today, on this 2012 Toyota Highlander, we're going to install part number 90885. This is the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller. Now, to help us to install this brake controller, we're also going to use part number ETBC7. This is the Brake Controller Install Kit. We're going to start with that part number first. Now, ETBC7 kit will contain a 7-pole connector and all parts requiring to go up to our brake controller up towards the front.

We'll start off with our bracket. Now, our hitch here has a preexisting bracket so it makes it a lot of easy. Let's go ahead and stack it on top and we'll go ahead and use the hardware that comes with the kit to attach it, with the screw and a flat washer. Underneath we'll get a star washer and a nut. In this case, a Stubby screwdriver works really good.

If you're lucky, the star washer will lock the nut in place. We need to tighten it down.Let's go ahead and install our 7-pole connector. This has a 7-pole and a 4-pole. We'll go ahead and use the provided hardware to attach to the bracket, and to the long bolt here and a nut on the back side with a built-in star washer. All right, let's go ahead and start hooking up some wires.

We'll go ahead and start with our 4-pole connector that comes off our adapter. This will plug into the previously installed 4-pole wiring harness. We just currently took it behind the bumper. The 4-poles will go together. We'll also use some dielectric grease on the contact here to protect the connection point because this will be basically a permanent and we're done.

Whenever you need to, you can always still unplug it. The part number for dielectric grease we're using is 11755.We'll go ahead and put some electrical tape around it to get a little bit of extra security and protection. All right, next we'll go ahead and deal with our white and purple wires. Our white wire with the ring terminal is going to be ground and our purple wire is an auxiliary wire. You can use it for any other circuit you want. Typically, it's going to be used for reversed slice. In this case, our application doesn't need it so it will be stored out of the way along with the ground wire. We're going to route ours up following the preexisting harness, and we'll attach it to the metal right here.Now, we will be using a self-tapping screw that comes with the kit to install our ground. In this, we'll use a 3-inch bit. Our next 2 wires are going be blue and black wires. We're going to connect these 2 up to our gray cable that comes with the kit. We'll go ahead and strip the sheathes back and we'll strip the wires back and add them to our butt connectors. We'll go ahead and match up black to black and blue to white. Our black wire then should be used for our 12-volt power supply straight from the battery to power anything on the trailer. Our white wire is going to come from the output from our brake controller back to blue. Eventually, the other half of this white wire will go back to blue on the brake controller.Let's go ahead and add some electrical tape to protect our connections. We'll go ahead and route this wire up along with our white and purple wires first and this will run. It's temporarily in place. Let's go ahead and take our wires and bundle them up. We'll use some of the loom material that comes with the kit to help hide the wires. We'll go ahead and secure them and then continue running our gray wire up towards the front.All right, once we have our wires secured, we'll go ahead and cut off the tails and then we'll go ahead and work our cable up towards the front. When we run our cable towards the front, we're going to stay away from anything moving like the suspension components or anything hot like the exhaust. Up towards the front, you want to make sure you stay away from the steering components as well. We'll go ahead and show you how to run our wire. You can see how we started off here. It went over this plastic panel here, right underneath the frame rail and above the sub-frame for rear suspension. Now, at the very top, there's a small tab you have to feel for and use that as attachment points for your zip ties.Continuing on, we'll go behind this line right here. We'll continue down until we hit the parking brake cable and we just zip tie to it. After that, we just tuck it underneath the panel right here. You can actually get easier from the outside to get to the fasteners and just pull them down a little bit, and we just threaded our cable all the way through and let the panels do our work.Now, to pull our wire from the bottom to the top, we'll be using a pull wire. In this case, we'll be using an open air line tubing. This can be also any piece of wire that can hold its shape. It helps to shine a flashlight down there to see which way you're going and we're going to run it out as close to the firewall and towards the outside of the frame. You route it towards the middle of the vehicle again. Run our cable out towards the center and to our pull wire. Let's go ahead and make the attachment to our pull wire and pull it up. Once we get our wire pulled up, we'll go ahead and tie it off to the factory wire harness here to keep it from falling back down. Now, it's always a good idea to get extra zip ties any time you're doing electrical.We'll go ahead and leave our gray cable alone for now. Just set it to the side. Next, we need to install 2 circuit breakers. Now, the 40-amp circuit breaker is going to be for our 12-volt power supply going to our 7-pole connector and eventually to our trailer. The other circuit breaker is going to be a 20-amp circuit breaker for the brake controller itself. Now, the ETBC7 kit comes with actually 3 of them. Depending on how big your trailer you're going to use, you may need the 30-amp circuit breaker for a heavier trailer. In this case, this vehicle probably wont pull that much so we're pretty safe to 20 amp.We'll go ahead and use a few screws to attach to the sheet metal right here. These sheet metal screws do come with the kit. We'll use a 1/4-inch driver to run them into the material right here. That's our gray cable. We'll go ahead and lay it out the way we're going to route it, and then I will go ahead and route it through our circuit breakers and then leave some excess to go to the positive side of our battery. We'll need to use this excess to go between our battery and our brake controller, eventually.We want to go ahead and pull the gray cover off our cable here. Now, white wire will eventually go to the inside to the brake controller and our black wire is going to go to our 40-amp circuit breaker. We'll run it behind this reservoir here. We'll then run it behind the fuse box here and then up to our 40-amp circuit breaker. We'll go ahead and cut our wire in half and add a small ring terminal to each half.Lets go ahead and add these 2 wires to our circuit breaker. Now, anything going out to our accessory like our 7-pole connector or trailer will go to the silver post. Power off the battery and we'll go to the copper post. Let's go ahead and tighten down our terminals with a 3/8 socket. Our other half, our black wire, will get a large ring terminal. This will get routed underneath the battery holder. This will eventually go to our 12-volt power supply right here. Now, I like to leave my connections to the battery as one of the last things that we do. Lets go ahead and set that to the side for now, just tuck it in the cap.Next, well go ahead and make an entry point for our white wire as well as the rest of our gray cable for our brake controller. Now, theres no easy way in to run our wires. We have to drill a hole to the fire wall. To do that, were going to pull back the carpet down as far as possible, and well also find the bottom edge of where our steering shaft goes through and well go off to the left hand side. Well cut out our installation as well and make a flap so we can drill out our holes. There you go then that will do just nicely.Well go ahead and start off with a pilot bit first about 3/8 of an inch. All right, now well go back at it with a larger sized bit. In this case, its going to be 11/16. Now, into our hole, were going to install snap bushing, part number SWC8057. All right, lets go ahead and take our air line tubing and well go ahead and run through our grommet. Well go ahead and pull it up from the outside and underneath the hood. Well go ahead and pull our wires back in. Well go ahead and take our wires and attach it to our air line tubing and pull it back through. Well fasten our gray cable to our white wire and well pull it simply back through to the inside.Well pull back what we need to go through our circuit breaker and then to our battery for the black wire for our power supply. Well go ahead and strip our wires back as well. Now, also, were going to loop more inaudible 00:14:23 throughout this time because were running short on cable. Well cut back the sheet and wire as far as we need to go. Our white wire Lets go ahead and push this one aside for now. Lets go match up a wire to our original black wire. Well go ahead and cut it in half again in that 2 small ring terminals. Well connect up to our circuit breaker here, our accessory. In this case, our brake controller will go to the silver post and from the battery it will go to the copper post. Then the other end of wire will get the large ring terminal.All right, lets go ahead and take our white wire and well go ahead and cut it to length and go to our negative side of our battery. Now, we can go ahead and attach this one here. Well go ahead and loosen up the nut and then were just going to put a gap in the ring here. Well go ahead and slide it back into place and then tighten up the nut.All right, now well go ahead and start working with our wires for our brake controller. We use the wire harness that comes from the brake controller. Well add some loom material to it to help keep the wires contained. Part number for the loom is 459075-1. Lets get our wires ready for our brake controller harness. Well go ahead and cut this one flush because we wont need the bare end on the red wire, and were able to use up the rest of our butt connectors from our ETBC7 kit and add to the end of the wires.Set this guy down for now. Lets get our other half of our wires ready to go. Well even up the lengths of our wires and well go ahead and strip those guys back. First, well go work up our white wire. That is our single white wire then well connect it to our blue wire from our brake controller. This white wire ran out to the blue wire on our 7-pole connector. Now, our gray cable. Well go ahead and cut the sheathe off of it and well match it color for color for power for our brake controller.Now, our red wire will get connected up to the cold side of our brake switch, which means we hit the brake pedal, the circuit comes on and that sends a signal to our brake controller. Well go ahead and make our connection for our red wire. In this case, our vehicle has an aftermarket wiring harness installed. Typically, well have the wires going the signals going into the module and then this will go out to the tow package from your trailer for your lights. Theres a red wire here but a small red one. Its actually our brake signal. Were going to actually tap into that without ever tapping into the vehicles wire harness.Well go ahead and use quick splice connector that comes with the kit to tap into it. Then well take our quick splice connector. Put over the wire were going to tap into and then slide our new wire right next to it and then squeeze down another clip in the middle which will complete the circuit. Then well put our cap back together and we can go ahead and set this to the side for now. Well go ahead and install a pocket for our brake controller.Lets go ahead and mount our pocket. Now, its generally a good idea to have it in a straight line with the vehicle and not have a twist in it like this. Up and down is perfectly fine. In this case, since our dash is pretty much curved and wont allow to go in a straight line, were going to go over to the left hand side. Well go and line up the seam here and bottom edge. Well go ahead and use the sheet metal screws that come with the brake controller and well attach it to the dash. Go ahead and run our cable through the back side of the pocket and well put our brake controller in place. Well go and snap it into the pocket, then well take a few moments to go ahead and tidy our wires back up underneath the dash. Make sure its safe and secure and not in the way of your feet.Now, were just about down to the wire on this one. Lets go ahead and make our last connection to the battery. All right, lets go ahead and take a look at our brake controller now. Now, you can see we have power going to it because we have 2 dots. Now, 1 dot is going to show power and the other dot will be our indicator for your brake boost, which you can change it by using this button right here, B1, B2, B3, and then theres off. When the B goes away because you only have 1 dot that shows you just have power. Lets go ahead and put it back to where it was, and then well use a manual override. It says NC for no connection which is correct.Lets go ahead and plug the trailer into the back of our 7-pole connector and try it again. Our trailer hooked up. We got to see for connection. We hit the manual override one more time. You can see how it scrolls to the numbers so we know the output going to your brake controller. We hit the foot brake, which you see a small amount of numbers come up as well. Now, it tells us we have signal from our brake switch.All right, it looks like everything is working. With that, that will finish it for our install of part number 90885, the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller and also part number ETBC7, on our 2012 Toyota Highlander. .

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