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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan


Today on our 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan. We're going to be installing the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller. Part number 90885. We're also going to be installing the universal installation kit for trailer brake controllers, part number ETBC7. Now here we have our brake controller, we have everything hooked up and you slide the manual override, the lever on the bottom we have an NC for showing that there's not a trailer connected. Now I'll go ahead and plug the trailer into the back. Now that we have a trailer plugged into the back, you can see that we have a C showing that it is connected.

The manual override here on the bottom here controls, here's the manual override switch, we have the roller knob here on the left side, which controls how much power the maximum amount will be given from zero up to 11, the blue button up here on the top right hand side is the boost feature or how aggressively the brakes will be applied. Now let's go ahead with our installation. To begin with, we're going to need to attach our 7 and 4-way plug here to the bracket that comes with the kit. Go ahead and slide it in position, line up the holes, we'll use the hardware that comes with the kid. The flat head machine screws slide it down through the, through the plug. Through the bracket on the back side we'll put this locking nut. Once our hardware is installed, we can go ahead and tighten it down.

Next we're going to go ahead and attach a universal mounting bracket. This is the tow ready universal mounting bracket, and it's part number 18136. This universal mounting bracket will allow us to attach our 7 and 4-way plug to the trailer receiver hitch itself. Now go ahead and line up our holes here. Use the hardware that comes with the long bracket kit, it's a phillips head machine screw. Go ahead and put that down through.

Again we have a locking nut. Go ahead and tighten everything down. Next we're going to go ahead and take our plug in bracket, we're going to secure it to the hitch using the hose clamp provided with the long bracket kit. Go ahead and put our bracket up into place, we'll then take the hose clamp, go up and around the hitch and back down through itself. Then go ahead and tighten down the hose clamp. Once we have our hose clamp tighten down, we can take a pair of tin snips and trim off the excess hose clamp. Next we're going to go ahead and take the grey duplex cable that comes with the ETBC7 kit, go ahead and strip some of the wire back.

We'll remove some of the great covering, exposing a black and white wire. Now we'll go ahead and take our duplex wire, come up around the hitch that we pull back down. Next we're going to need to strip back a little bit of wire from both the black and the white wire. We'll the be connecting the black wire with the black wire coming off of the 7-way plug. We'll be connecting the white wire with the blue wire coming off of the 7-way plug. We'll then go ahead and use a little bit electrical tape to tape up these two connections to help protect them from the elements. Next we're going to go ahead and take the four flat wiring that was previously installed on this vehicle only to connect it to the four flat plug on the backside of our 7-way connector. Now before we put the plug together, we're going to install a little dielectric grease on the connection, that's part number 11755. Can then go ahead and put the plug together. To make sure it stays nice and tight, we're going to go ahead and use a zip tie to help secure the plug as well. We can also go ahead and cut the cover off as we won't need that anymore. We'll also trim off the excess zip tie. Now we have a purple wire here with the butt connector on it. That's if you're going to hook up the reverse circuit to your 7-way plug. On our application today we're not going to do that. For now we're just going to take some electrical tape and tape up the connection. Next we'll go ahead and take our wire here, bundle it up a little. Go ahead and take a little tape just to help keep it together. We'll then going to take a piece of the half inch wire loom that comes with the kit. We're going to cut it to length here so then we can protect the wires. Now that we've got our piece cut, we can go ahead and install it on our wires. We'll then go ahead and use a little electrical tape to help make sure the wire loom stays in place. Go ahead and also tape our full flat wiring up a little bit. Next we'll go ahead and take our white wire here with the ring terminal, push that up and over the hitch so we can push all the wires up. Take a few zip ties to help secure it across the back side of the hitch. Can then go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie. Next we're going to go ahead and take our white wire with the ring terminal and the large self tapping screw that comes with the kit, secure it to the vehicle's frame. Next we're going to go ahead and route our grey duplex wire up to the front of the vehicle and into the engine compartment. Now when routing the wire you want to try to avoid areas that may have moving parts, become hot or have sharp edges because all of these could easily damage the wire. Now we're also going to need to use a few zip ties along the way to help secure our wire. Next we're going to go ahead and take an old section of airline tubing and use it as a fish wire, we'll push it up to the top part of the engine compartment. We'll then take our grey duplex wire and tape it off to it. We'll then go to the top side using our pull wire to pull the grey duplex wire into position. Next we're going to go ahead and trim a grey duplex wire to length, now we're going to go need to go to a location over here as well as take a wire into the cab of the vehicle. We'll go ahead and take our cutters and cut our wire down. Next we're going to go ahead and take our razor knife and strip the grey covering off of the black and white wire. Next we're going to take our 40 amp breaker and one of the screws that comes with the kit to secure it. We're going to attach it right up here to the inner fender well. Then we're going to attach our 30-amp breaker to the inner fender well again using the screw that's supplied with the kit. Next we're going to go ahead and go into the cab of the vehicle while we're underneath where the pedals are, you'll notice there's a big rubber grommet with a bundle of wires that go through it. We're going to need to put a hole through the rubber grommet so we can pull our wires into the cab of the vehicle. Now we're going to go ahead and use an old section of airline tubing again, go ahead and push it through the grommet so that we can connect to it inside the engine compartment and pull our wires back into the cab. We'll go ahead and pull our piece of airline tubing that we fish from the inside out. Next we're going to need to take the rest of our grey duplex wire. We're going to need to strip the covering back off of it. We're going to need to use the black wire out of the rest of our duplex wiring. Next we'll go ahead and take the black wire that we just stripped out and the white wire that we ran from the rear of the vehicle we'll attach them here to our old section of airline that we're using as our pull wire. Now we can go into the cab of the vehicle and pull these two wires through the rubber grommet. Next we're going to go ahead and take the black wire that's in the bundle with the white wire. This is the wire that we ran from the rear of the vehicle, go ahead and feed it around our fuse box. Next we'll go ahead and we'll strip a little wire back from the end, we're going to need to take one of the smaller ring terminals cramp it onto the end. We'll then be connecting this wire to the chrome or the silver side of our 40-amp fuse. Go ahead and remove the nut and the star washer. Add our wire in. We'll replace the star washer and the nut. Go ahead and tighten that down. We'll then take the other black wire that we just pulled into the cab of the vehicle. Come around the fuse box. That's why it will go the 40-amp circuit breaker. Go ahead and trim our wire to length. Strip a little wire back. We'll add a small ring terminal again. Go ahead and attach it to our breaker. Next we're going to take some of the remaining black wire, we're going to make two jumpers that go from the copper or brass side of the circuit breakers to our positive battery post. Right here in our fuse block. We'll go ahead and start by stripping back some wire. Add a small ring terminal to one end. Go ahead and connect it here to the brass or copper side of our circuit breaker. We'll then take the other end of the wire. Strip some back. We'll be adding a larger ring terminal to that end. Go ahead and take another piece of our black wire. Go ahead and strip some back. Crimp a small ring terminal to one end. Go ahead and connect this to the cap around the 40-amp circuit breaker. Go ahead and trim our wire to length, strip a little wire back. Add another large ring terminal. Now at this time, we won't connect these two to the positive located underneath the cover of our fuse block until we finish up making our connections inside the vehicle. This will be our final step. Next we're going to come underneath the dash here, we're going to use our test light and go off for the break light switch, we got to figure out which wire becomes hot whenever the break pedal is pressed. We've gone ahead and used our test light. Go ahead and press in on the break pedal. When we press in, you can see the light on our test light lights up. The wire that we're connected to is the white wire with the green stripe. That's the wire that we'll be tying in with. Next we'll go ahead and cut the black and white wire to length, go ahead and strip some back on each. We'll then add a butt connector to the end of each. We'll then take our harness from the break controller and we'll connect the black wire to the black wire. We'll connect the blue wire to the white wire. The black wire is the power wire, the blue wire connected to the white wire is the brake signal wire, goes back to the 7-way plug for the trailer brakes. We'll take the white wire, we'll need to ground that and our red wire is what'll tie in with the white wire with the green stripe on the brake switch. Next we'll go ahead and tape up our two connections. Then we're going to take our red wire and a quick splice connector and connect them with our brake light switch. Go ahead and take our quick splice and we'll slide it over the wire then take the red wire slide that into position go ahead and take our pliers and crimp that down. Close the cap. Go ahead and add a little tape just to make sure everything stays in place. Next we're going to go ahead and take a little electrical tape and tape off the end of our harness here, just to help clean up the look as you'll be able to see a small portion of this once our brake controller is installed. We're going to need to mount the pocket that holds our brake controller in place. Now brake controller comes out, we'll just use two of the supplied screws to screw it in to the plastic section here. You want to be careful because underneath this panel here there is an airbag and you want to make sure that you don't screw into any portion of that. We've gone ahead and looked underneath and made sure that the area was clear and then we can go ahead and use our two screws to secure the pocket. Go ahead and feed our wire up though the bottom. Connect it here to the backside of the break controller. Make sure you hear it click into position and then slide our brake controller back down into the pocket. Next we're going to take an extra piece of the white wire that was run up from the rear of the vehicle. We're going to need to extend our ground wire off of the brake controller so we can make it over to a good suitable ground. We'll do that using the supplied butt connector. Go ahead and put a little tape on that connection as well. Next we'll go ahead and cut our ground extension to length. Then going to add a ring terminal to the end of that. Right here is the ground that we'll be tying in our white wire too. I went ahead and cut the center out of the ring terminal to make it slide onto our ground a little bit easier. Now we've gone ahead and used the fuse zip ties to help secure up any loose wiring up underneath the dash. Now that our wires are all secured, we can go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie. Next we're going to go ahead, open up our fuse box and we're going to be connecting right here to this post, our two black wires. Go ahead and loosen up the nut. We'll go ahead and add our two black wires in. Go ahead and put the nut back on and then we can tighten everything back down. Then go ahead and close our fuse cover back up. That'll do it for our installation of the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller, part number 90885. In conjunction with the universal installation kit for trailer brake controllers. Part number ETBC7 on our 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan. .


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