bing tracking image

Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2017 Ford Escape

content loading

Customers compare 90195 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2017 Ford Escape


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Ford Escape, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller from one to four axles. That's going to be part number 90195.To help us with our installation, we're going to be using the universal installation kit for trailer brake controllers with the seven way RV and four way flat connector. And that's going to be part number ETBC7.So here's what our PS is going to look like once we have it installed. It is going to be a nice, slim, compact unit and the display's going to be extremely easy to see and make it very easy to use as well. Now the P3's a proportional brake controller, which means that it's going to apply the brakes on our trailer at the same time and intensity that we apply them in our Escape.So if we ease into a stop coming to a stop light, our trailer brake controller is going to ease into it. But if we come to a panic stop and slam on the brakes, our brake controller's going to put that exact same amount of power.

Now it's going to be very easy to use, like most brake controllers we're going to have our gain control. We're going to have these two knobs here. We're going to have a maximum of 14 volts and it'll go all the way down to zero. And again this is going to be the maximum amount of power that could be sent to our trailer brakes.Now if we move over to the top right hand corner, that's going to be our boost button. And we're going to have a total of four settings, one being boost off.

If we turn it on, we can see that it tells us that boost is on and then the little picture at the top, the trailer's going to get bigger and we're going to have a B1 letting us know that it's in boost mode one.Each level that we go up with our boost, the quicker and sooner our brakes are going to get to that maximum intensity level. So if you're using a big trailer or a really heavy trailer, and you need your brakes to come on quicker and ramp up quicker, that's what the boost is going to do for you. One thing I really like about this brake controller is you can preset the values in there. So if you got different drivers that have different styles, or if you have different trailers you tow with, you can actually set the different modes by pushing and holding the boost button and we can set up to five different trailers or five different drivers for our needs.Now also this brake controller is going to have a lot of different options. We're going to be able to go into the display.

We can change our brightness, the color and contrast. So that way when we're going down the road our brake controller's not going to blind us, but it's also going to be real easy to see and we can match it to the lights on our dash.Now like most brake controllers it is going to have a manual override. This is going to be a lever style. So we can just reach down real quick and push the lever over to the left and that's going to apply the brakes on our trailer without us having to push on the brake pedal. Lot of times if we're going down the road and our trailer starts to sway and we don't want to slow our vehicle down.

We can simply come and apply the brakes manually to the trailer.Another big benefit of a proportional brake controller like this one, is that when we come to stop light and we're pushing on our brakes, it is going to hold our brakes for us. But unlike the time delay where it's just going to mash on the brakes, it's going to hold our brakes at 25% so we still have some stopping power but it's not going to be putting a lot of wear and tear on our trailer brakes.Now the P3 is going to work with electric and electric over hydraulic brakes. And it'll work with trailers with one, all the way up to four axles. If you're looking for a very easy to use, easy to read brake controller, our P3 is going to be a great option with this large display. So now that we've seen what it looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, you want to make sure that you have a working four pole flat trailer connector on your Escape already. So we'll start by mounting our seven way bracket. Our hitch has a bracket already welded on that we can mount it to. If yours doesn't though, we do have several different lengths of brackets available here at etrailer.com.And our ETBC7 kit will have some Phillips head screws and flat washers. I'm going to come from the bottom going through the bracket and then through my seven way bracket. And then to secure everything down, I'm going to come back with a star washer, slide it over the bolt and then put a hex nut on to secure everything. Just get it on there hand tight, so we don't have to worry about the bracket falling off. We can come back and do the same thing for the other mounting location. Take a eight millimeter wrench and a Phillips head screwdriver and tighten up the hardware.We can take our seven way connector, we're going to pass the wires through the bracket. Then our four mounting holes on the outside of the bracket will line up with our mounting bracket. Also in the kit, they're going to give you some flathead screws. We'll go through the front of the plug coming out the back. Then we're going to be securing it with these lock nuts. Just want to get these on there hand tight to start. That way we don't have to worry about the plug moving around too much.With that same eight millimeter wrench, I'll hold the nut on the back side. Then I'll tighten up the screw with a flathead screwdriver. On the back of our seven way connector we are going to have a four pole flat trailer connector. That's going to hook into our existing wiring. So we'll just go ahead and plug it in. And I always like to wrap it up with some electrical tape, not only to help keep it together but try to keep as much moisture out of the connector itself as possible. And since the dust cover won't be getting used anymore, I'm just going to go ahead and cut it off.Next we'll start with our white wire, it's going to have a ring terminal preinstalled on it. That's going to be our ground. So we're going to need to find a nice flat spot where we can put this. We'll be using a self tapping screw. So if we just follow this wire up, making sure you go around the exhaust. You can actually go to the bottom of the frame right here. So I'll take one of the large self tapping screws that's in our kit. I'm just going to go directly into the bottom.You just want to make sure that ring terminal's tight enough that it's not going to be moving around. And we should have three wires left on the back of our connector. The blue wire is going to be our brake output. The black wire's going to be for our power. And the purple wire is going to be for our reverse signal. We're not going to be using the reverse signal on our application. But I'm going to leave a little bit of wire here, so in case down the road they decide to add in that in signal, they can. Just go ahead and cut the wire. And again it's not a bad idea to just put a little bit of electrical tape around the end.Now for our black and blue wire, they're already are preinstalled butt connectors on them. But since it's on the outside of the vehicle, I'm going to replace these with some heat shrink butt connectors. That way it provides a little bit of extra protection. So we'll cut the ends of those off and strip back the end of our wire. We take the stripped end and put it into our butt connector. We'll crimp it down.We grabbed the gray duplex wire out of our kit. We look on the end here, we'll see that there's going to be a white and a black wire on the inside. So we're going to need to cut a way just a little bit of this gray sheathing, so we can get access to those wires in there. Now the easiest way to that, is you just take a knife and you just want to cut right in the center so you don't damage the wires inside. But you can cut the gray sleeve off and we can just peel some of it back. Again you don't need to cut a whole lot off, just enough to gain access to the wires inside.We'll strip back both ends. And our black wire is going to go into our black wire. Then our white wire is going to go into the blue wire. I'm going to take a heat gun and shrink down my connectors. If you're using a flame like a torch or a lighter to shrink them down, you want to be extra careful not to burn or char the wires or the connectors.So I'm going to take some tape and I'm going to wrap all my wires together here coming out of the plug. One to help conceal it a little bit better at the back of our vehicle here. But also just kind of keep them together, make it easier to work with.Now our gray duplex wire's going to have to go to the front so they can meet up close to our battery in the engine compartment. So we're going to go ahead and route this. And when we do that, we'll take all of our excess wire and tuck it behind the bumper and find something to tie it to, so we don't have it hanging down. But keep in mind whenever you route this and tie your wires up, you want to stay away from any moving parts or any heat sources like the exhaust here.So I ran my wire over to the driver's side. As soon as I got back to the rear axle and cross member here, I went over the top and came along the edge here, came underneath this panel. I followed it down til I came to this panel. And it will be easier if you remove these three outer 10 millimeter nuts. We can tuck our wire underneath this panel. And then finally it came out right here towards the front of that panel. Now I went ahead and ran an air line tube. You can use a coat hanger or whatever you have available. And I went from the top of the engine bay, as close to the firewall as I could and I dropped it down here. That way I can attach my wire and pull it up.So we'll take the end of our gray duplex wire, put some electrical tape around it and the air line tube. Then we can move up top. So we can start pulling our wire up. Now it is somewhat of a tight fit. So it might have a little bit of tension when you're pulling it up.Once you have all your wire pulled up in the engine bay, it's not a bad idea to double check and make sure that all the slack is pulled through and you don't have a wad underneath the car. At this point, go ahead and take our knife again, except we're going to be separating that gray coating all the way as far back towards the firewall as we can. You just want to take your time and being careful not to damage the wire on the inside. Again just cut the outer coating, so we can gain access to the inside of the wires.With our wires separated, we're going to grab the 40 amp breaker from our kit and we need to find a spot to mount it. Now if we come just right to the inside of our headlight here, have a nice solid surface right here that we can mount it to. Then it won't be interfering with anything. Just want to make sure that you stay away from this section because our prop rod is going to be resting right along here. So we don't want to mount it too close, because then we won't be able to put it away.So we'll just come just forward of that right here. It's not a bad idea to double check around and underneath to make sure that nothings going to interfere with anything. And then we'll take our breaker and two of the self tapping screws and a quarter inch nut driver. And on each end we'll put one in place. With the breaker mounted, we're going to take our black wire, if you remember, is our power wire at the back of our connector. I'm going to route it around my air box that way it doesn't interfere with any kind of maintenance. We'll just route it around and get a good idea of how much wire we're going to need to reach the silver post on our breaker.I'm going to cut back the wire and hold onto the excess. Then we'll strip back the end. Once the end is stripped, we're going to take one of the small ring terminals in our kit, slide it over, and we'll crimp it in place. Then we can loosen the nut that's on the breaker. We'll slide our ring terminal over. Then we'll replace the nut.Now we're going to grab that excess wire and we're going to have to run from the other terminal on our breaker to the battery. Our battery's going to be back here, so we can lift up this cover, and we'll set it aside for right now. But we'll see and again taking the same path, kind of estimate about how much wire we're going to need. It's not a bad idea to give yourself a little bit of slack. And we'll cut our wire and strip it back. One ends going to get the same size ring terminal that's going to go on the breaker, one of the smaller ones. So we'll take that one and crimp it in place. The other end is going to be getting a larger ring terminal.So again we can take the small ring terminal, loosen up the nut on the breaker, slide the small terminal over it. I'll replace the nut. Right now we're just going to route our wire over towards the battery. We're going to go ahead and leave it off, so we can make all the connections at one time.So before we send our wire inside, I'm going to go ahead and mount our other breaker. This breaker is going to be the power for our brake controller itself. Now right just to the outside of where our other breaker is, this will be a good spot. Just want to make sure you leave yourself enough room, so that we can still access our headlight so if we ever need to change it. So again, just taking one of the self tapping screws and a quarter inch nut driver, we'll get one side in place. Then we'll put the other one in.We're going to take more of our black wire. We're going to strip back the end of it. And again we're going to take one of our small ring terminals and crimp it in place. This time we'll start with the copper post. We'll loosen up the terminal, slide our ring terminal over it, we'll replace the nut. And again we're going to be routing it the same general pattern going over to the positive post on our battery. You just want to estimate about how much you need, we'll cut it back, strip the end, and get one of our larger ring terminals in place. Then we'll just set this over here by our other ring terminal for now.We're going to take the last bit of black wire that we have, strip back one end. We're going to crimp on one of our small ring terminals. Coming back to our brake controller breaker, we'll remove the nut off the silver post. Slide our ring terminal over, put the nut back in place.Now our white wire that's coming from the back. If you remember we hooked it up to our brake output signal or the blue wire. We're going to make sure that we have enough to get into the cab here. So it maybe close to half of the extent of the wire. We're going to go ahead and cut that in half. And then with the free end and the access wire, we're going to strip back the end of it. Take another one of our large ring terminals and we're going to crimp it in place. This is going to act as our ground for our brake controller. So if we come to our battery and we move just to the outside towards the driver's side, underneath this plastic panel here towards the back, we'll have our ground stud that's also going to be for our jump post. That's where we're going to be attaching our ground wire to.So I'm going to take an extension and a 13 millimeter socket and we'll remove that nut. Once we have it removed, we'll take our white wire with our ring terminal, pass it through. Then we can reinstall it. You just want to make sure that you have that ground wire that was originally on there back in place before you put the bolt back in.Since we're going to have two white wires going into the cab of our Escape. We want to make sure that we mark them somehow. So I'm going to take a little bit of electrical tape. I'm just going to put a little tag on my ground wire. That way I know which ones my ground and which ones my brake signal. Now we can go ahead and move on the inside and figure out how we're going to get the wire in there.If we come underneath our dash, we find our steering column at the very back of the firewall here. Just left of it, you'll kind of see there's a little bit of an outline in the insulation here. It's already precut, so we just want to pull that insulation down. And there's going to be a plastic or a rubberish type plug that's in the firewall. We're going to want to go ahead and pull that out as well, but make sure you hold onto it. And that'll give us access right into the engine bay. So again I'm going to use an air line tube to help me fish my wires inside.So that grommet is going to be behind our battery box, be extremely hard to see from the outside. So if you take your coat hanger or air line tube and coming from the inside start feeding it through. You can take some electrical tape and you're going to want to tape all three wires to the end of that and start pulling it inside.With our wires on the inside, we can go ahead and grab our harness for our brake controller. We're going to have four wires on here: a black wire, red, white and a blue wire. So we'll go ahead and start with our blue wire here. We'll find the end of it. Take another one of our butt connectors and crimp it onto the end of our wire.Now the blue wire we're going to want to go to our brake output signal. So if you remember it's going to be that white wire that doesn't have that electrical tape on it. So we'll strip back the end. We'll crimp it onto the end of the wire. Then we'll move to our white wire off of our brake controller. And this is a little bit smaller of a wire, so I'm going to strip back a little bit extra insulation. I'm going to fold it over on itself, take another one of our butt connectors and crimp it in place. Then we're going to want to take our other white wire and just so that it's going to be somewhat close, we'll go ahead and cut it to the same length as our other white wire. We'll strip back the end of it and put it into the butt connector with the white wire.Next we'll move to our black wire that's coming off of our pigtail. We'll crimp another one of our butt connectors in place. Again take our black wire coming from the engine bay, trim it down and crimp it in place. So we should have one more wire left and that's going to be our red wire. Now this is going to be hooked up to our brakes, so we're going to have to find the cold side of our brake switch. Which means that we're only going to be getting power when we push on the brake pedal itself.So if we come to the brake pedal, we follow it up, we'll be able to feel our brake switch that's mounted onto the pedal. The plug's going to be mounted right here up in the dash a little bit. We're going to have several wires that are coming off of it. Now we're going to need to test each one of these wires to figure out which one is only getting voltage when we press on the brake pedal. So I'm going to go ahead and figure that out and I'll show which one it is.So I have my tester on the purple wire with the white stripe. Now you can see I'm not getting any power, but when I push on the brake pedal, I get a signal and when I let go, it goes away. That's how we know we have the correct wire. So now that we've identified the wire, what I'm going to do is I'm going to come to my brake switch and I'm going to unplug it, that way I have a little bit easier of a time to work with the wires. So if we just twist it to the right, we'll be able to pull it down. We can see that wire a little bit better. It's going to be the very end wire, that purple one with the white stripe on it.So now that we have our brake switch down and it's easier to access that wire, we're going to come up a little bit from our brake switch. We're going to cut that wire in half and we're going to strip back both ends. Now since it is such a thin wire, I am going to strip a little bit more than normal, and fold the wire over on itself. I'm going to take one of the smaller butt connectors, again I'm using a heat shrink. I'm going to go ahead and slide it on one end of my brake switch and crimp it in place. On the other end, I'm going to take my red wire, I'm going to strip back a little bit more insulation off of it. I'm going to tie this in the other end of my brake switch wire together. Then we'll crimp it into the other end of our butt connector. Then we can come back and we can shrink down all of our connectors.Then we can put our brake switch back in. When you put it in, you want to make sure you line it up kind of tilt it to the right, push it in lining up those two tabs, and then rotating it to the left. Then I'll make sure it's locked in place. Then we can double check our connection by taking our test light, putting it with the red wire, the pin it corresponds with. Then we'll push on our brake pedal. And you can see we're only getting a signal when we push on the brake pedal. So we know our connection's good and we have the correct wire.Then we can get ready to mount the bracket that's going to hold our brake controller. Now the only thing we need to make sure of is that we find a relatively flat spot. So we don't want it sitting on an angle like this and we want to make sure that the bracket is as close to level as we can get it. So we have this small vent type hole just to the right of the ignition. We come just right below that, it's pretty level. We don't have to worry about too many curves in the dash and we'll have plenty of room to get our screws in on either side.So our kit's going to come with some Phillips screws. We want to pass one through the bracket. I'm going to take a screwdriver or a drill and again just kind of make sure that you get it pretty level. We'll get one started. Leave this one a little loose now, so I can still move my bracket and get it positioned how I want it and we'll get the other one in place.So then we can take the cradle section of our bracket and on top we're going to have two loops with holes in them. That's going to line up with those two holes on our bracket. So you want to make sure it's on the inside, and then we can take the machine screws that have a built in washer in them. And coming from the outside, we want to make sure it goes through the outer bracket and the cradle. Make sure it's going through both brackets. Then we can get the other one in place and come back with a Phillips bit driver and tighten them down.When we tighten these down, we don't need to go crazy. We just want to tighten them down enough to where they're nice and snug. We still have a little bit of adjustment on that bracket, so we can get our brake controller sitting how we want.So we can grab our brake controller. If we look on the back, go ahead and line up the plug, make sure that tabs on top. We'll plug it in, make sure it locks in. Then if we come kind of at an angle and push the brake controller into the cradle and then push up, making sure you bring these tabs down, it'll lock it into place.So now the two wires coming off of our breaker, we can get ready to hook up to our battery. So I'm going to be using a 10 millimeter ratcheting wrench just because of the low clearance here. I'm going to loosen up the nut that's holding down that terminal on the positive side of our battery.Now I will let you know that nut mostly likely will not come off. It's not meant to come off. They crimp the end of it, so that really is just meant to loosen up. So we want to loosen it up as much as we can without fully taking it off. Since we can't take that nut off, what we're going to do with our ring terminals here, is we're going to cut them just a small section out of the center. So it'll be a C shape. Then we can slide it underneath the nut and get it in place. I'm going to take each one of our terminals, making sure we keep any other terminals on the battery as well. We'll slide them underneath the washer. And once we have all of them in place, we'll go ahead and tighten that nut back down.We can tuck our excess wire in between the fuse panel here and the air box, so it'll be out of the way. We can take our battery cover and put it back in place. Now with a 10 millimeter socket, we're going to come back make sure we snug up the nuts on our breakers. Then we can take some time and tie up all of our loose wires under the dash. Want to bundle everything up, make it easier to work with. Then we can find a solid point underneath the dash to tie everything to. You just want to stay away from anything moving under there.Now this part's optional, but I always like to take some of the wire loom from our ETBC7 kit and wrap it around the end of my brake controller. On the wire here, that way it kind of helps hide it and make it look a little bit cleaner once we're finished. So we can cut it to length. Cut the excess that's going to go under the dash off. Feed our wire inside the loom and we always come back with some tape to make sure it's not going to slip around on us. And for that plug that we pulled out earlier, just going to take a pair of cutters and I'm going to cut a slit in the plug so that my wires can pass through, be more towards the center. And we'll be able to actually put the plug back in and fold that insulation back over it.Then to make sure that plug is nice and sealed up, I'm going to take a little bit of silicone. I'm just going to go around my wires and along that cut that I made. We don't have to worry about any kind of fumes or any other kind of leaks. With that all patched up, we can fold that insulation back up as much as we can. Then we can test our brake controller.So I have my trailer tester here. I'm going to go ahead and plug it in. We can already see on my tester that it is reading the voltage, which means that power wire that we ran to the back is working. So let's go ahead and turn our Escape on. We'll check our lights and the current coming out of our brake controller.So if I turn my lights on, we can see that my taillights are working, as well as my left turn signal, right turn signal, and my brakes. And if I move the manual override button on my brake controller, we can see that I am getting voltage, so we know that it's working. All we have left to do now is hook up to our trailer and hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Tekonsha P3 trailer brake controller for one to four axles, part number 90195 on our 2017 Ford Escape.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Video by:
Joe V
Employee Patrick B
Video by:
Patrick B
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Robert C
Video by:
Robert C
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee John S
Video by:
John S
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Andrew K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Mike H
Video Edited:
Mike H
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video Edited:
Zach D
Employee Patrick B
Test Fit:
Patrick B
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Rick A
Test Fit:
Rick A
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Joe B
Test Fit:
Joe B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Matthew S
Test Fit:
Matthew S
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Jacob H
Test Fit:
Jacob H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Adam E
Test Fit:
Adam E
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.