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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2018 Honda Odyssey

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How to Install the Trailer Brake Controller on a 2018 Honda Odyssey


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Honda Odyssey, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller, part number 90195. Now to help us with our installation, we're going to be using the universal installation kit for trailer brake controllers with a seven way RV and four way flat connector, part number ETBC7.So here's what our P3's going to look like once we have it installed. It is a proportional brake controller, which means it's going to apply the trailer brakes in the same intensity and at the same time that we apply the brakes on our vehicle. Because there's an internal inertia sensor, that's going to detect the deceleration of our vehicle and apply the brakes accordingly to our trailer.Like most brake controllers, this is going to have a manual override button. It's going to have a lever here at the bottom and if we sweep it over to the left, we can see that it's going to manually apply the brakes even if I'm not pushing on the brake pedal on my car. Now this is going to come in handy if your trailer starts to sway, when you're going down the road and you need to slow it down without hitting the brakes on your vehicle.

It's also going to have a boost feature. It's going to have a total of four different settings. One being boost off, boost one, boost two, and boost three.Now the boost setting is going to allow you to have a different intensity depending on how big of a trailer you're pulling. The boost setting is going to determine how quickly and how aggressively the brakes are going to be applied to the trailer. For instance, on boost level one our brakes are actually going to start out at 13% of the maximum power and then increase with the deceleration of our car.

Whereas with boost two or three, it's going to start out a little bit higher and eventually get up to that final setting that much quicker.Now in the corner here, you can see that it has a B1. That's going to let you know that it's on boost one and we can see the little display with a truck with a trailer behind it. And if we go up to boost two, we can see that the trailer gets a little bit bigger. And finally on boost three, you can see that it's a much larger trailer than the vehicle that's pulling it. That's just a quick glance, you'll know what boost setting your on and be able to determine if you need that much for your setup.Over here to the left, we're going to have the up and down arrows.

And that's going to have your maximum power setting. So right now, maximum power setting is 14, which it's going to be in volts. And you can go all the way down to zero. Then you'll be able to hit cancel or okay using the side buttons here. So at a quick glance, if you just push one of the buttons, it'll let you know what your maximum power setting is.

Now the P3 is going to work with electric and electric over hydraulic brakes.If we come over to this button on the right that looks like a book and we press it, it'll take us into the setup menu. We're going to have display, brake type, and help. If we go to the brake type, we can see that we can choose either electric or hydraulic brakes. One of the unique settings on our brake controller is that we can actually change the color of our display. If we go into the setup menu and we hit display, we can actually change the brightness, the color as well as the contrast. There's going to be a wide color variety that's available in here. Ranging from blue, green, red, and even pink.Since this is a proportional brake controller, we are going to have to make sure that it's facing the direction of travel that we're going to be driving. It's also going to have to be parallel to the ground. So we're going to have to have it nice and level going across on the sideways plane. Now we're going to be able to mount it in almost any angle up and down like this. We're just going to have to make sure that it's nice and level and pointing in the direction we're going. Now it is going to have an automatic level internally, that's going to acquire the proper level and it is going to accommodate whenever we're traveling up and down hills.One of the nice things about it being proportional is it's not going to apply brakes when we don't need it to. So, if we're sitting at a stoplight for a long period of time, it's going to save our brakes because it's not going to have then sitting at the maximum power just grinding against the brakes. But when we do push on the brake and we're not moving like we are right now, we're set at stop. Our brakes are going to apply a small amount of the maximum power just to make sure that trailer stays still at the stoplight. So if you're looking for a brake controller for your Odyssey, that's going to be able to handle anywhere from one to four axles on your trailer, our Prodigy P3 is going to be a great option. And it's going to be able to handle the electric or electric over hydraulic brakes while still having a lot of customizable features in it. So now that we've seen what it looks like and gone over some of those features, let's show you how to get it installed.So this is what our ETBC7 kit is going to come with. We're going to have our seven way and four way connector and all the hardware necessary to get it in, as well as a length of wire to run all the wires up to our brake controller. Now the butt connectors, they do provide them in our kit as well as some quick splices. But I'm going to be replacing those with some heat shrink butt connectors. You can pick some up on our website using part number DW05745-5 and that'll be for a pack of five of them. First thing I want to mention is you do want to have a working four pole trailer wiring on your Odyssey for our ETBC7 to hook up to our brake controller. And we do have a wide variety of these available on our website. So if you don't have wiring already, you can go ahead and pick some up.First step in our installation is going to be mounting the mounting bracket for our seven way connector. Now for us we already have a bracket attached to our hitch here. So we're just going to bolt it up right here. Now if your hitch doesn't have this bracket, we do have a couple different sizes and varieties of brackets that we can mount this to. So we can take the included hardware from our kit. We're actually just going to drop it down through that bracket, lining up the holes on the top of our bracket and we can drop down the other bolt through the bracket. So then we're going to take one of the flat washers that's in our kit. We're going to slide it over the bolt. Then we can take one of the star washers, slide it on top of that. Then finally we're going to secure it with a nut. Get it on there hand tight just so the bracket won't move as much. Then we get the rest of the hardware in on the other side.So then you're going to want to grab a 5/16 socket and we can go ahead and tighten up those nuts on the bottom of those screws. So we can grab our seven way connector and there is a slot right here in the bracket. So we're going to run our wires up through that slot so we can pass them through the back side. Then we're going to put it in place, kind of line up the holes on the bracket that on our connector. Then we can take the flat head screws that are in our kit and we're going to put them in place going through the seven way connector and the bracket on the back. And once it's all the way through, you're going to grab one of the flange nuts. We can go ahead and loosely put it on. Our kit does come with four screws and four nuts. So we'll put all the screws in place and tighten them down.Then you want to grab a small flathead screwdriver and you can actually just hold the back of the nut with your finger and we can tighten up the screws, making sure it's nice and snug and the bracket's not going to move around. So we can take our four pole wiring and ours is attached to our hitch here. So we're going to go ahead and disconnect it. And we'll see that it's going to match up with the wiring on our kit. So we can go ahead and plug it in. And I'm going to come back with some electrical tape and tape it together, not only to help the connections stay tight, but it's also going to protect it from any kind of moisture getting inside. And if yours has the dust cover attached to the wiring, you can leave it on. But just so that it's not hanging out there and kind of getting in the way. I'm going to go ahead and cut it off. So our black and blue wire here you can see they have preinstalled butt connectors. But as I mentioned I'm going to be replacing with heat shrink butt connectors.So I'm going to go ahead and cut those connectors off. I'm going to strip back the wire and put the new connectors on. Just slide it into the terminal and we can crimp it in place. So we're going to want to grab our gray duplex wire and if we look on the end, we're going to see that it has two wires on the inside. So we're going to need to strip back just a little bit of the gray insulation, so we can expose those two separate wires. Now the easiest way to do this, is if you find a nice, hard, flat surface and you're going to take a knife and cut right down the center of the wire. Now you want to be extremely careful not to cut into the wire itself. You just want to cut that gray sleeve just enough so we can separate the two wires and get access to them. So we're going to strip back both ends of the wire. And we're going to be connecting these to the two heat shrink butt connectors that we just put on. So our black wire is going to go directly into the black wire.Slide it in and crimp it in place. And our white wire is going to go to the blue wire. Now the black wire here is going to be our power wire. The blue wire is going to be our brake signal wire. And then we have two more wires that are coming off the back of our seven way. The white wire's going to have a ring terminal on it which is going to be our ground. So we're going to have to route it to where we can get a nice, clean connection point at the frame or any other part of the sheet metal on the vehicle. Now the purple wire is going to be for a reverse circuit. Now we're not going to be using this in our application but if you are, you would route this up to the reverse light or a circuit that you can tap into the reverse light signal. Now I'm going to be using a heat gun to shrink down my connectors. I just want to mention if you are using an open flame like a torch or a lighter, you want to be extremely careful not to char or burn the connector or the wires themselves.So now we're going to be removing this push pin that's directly behind our connector. As well as this panel that's on the bottom side of our driver's side over here. That way we can route our wires over and underneath this panel and also get access to a good grounding point. So to remove those push pins, you're going to want to grab a flathead screwdriver and you'll see that their center section is separate from the outer section. So we're going to take our screwdriver and we're going to pop the center section out first. And that'll release the tab and we'll be able to get our flathead screwdriver underneath the outer section and pull the rest of the clip out. So we'll go to repeat that for the driver's side over here and all the remaining push pins.Now in the driver's side wheel well there is going to be a Phillips screw that's also attaching the fender liner to that panel. So you're going to want to grab a Phillips bit and a bit driver and then we can take that screw out. So there's going to be one more fastener holding this panel in place. It's going to be a 10 millimeter bolt right behind the driver's side tire at the very top. So we can grab a 10 millimeter socket and pull it out. Now once you have all those fasteners removed, we can pull the panel out. Now we'll have full access to run our wires over as well as finding a grounding point.So we're going to take our gray duplex wire as well as all the other wires and we're going to go underneath the bumper, where our four pole wire was coming and start routing it over towards the driver's side. And once you have a little bit through, you can go ahead and pull the slack out. This just hides the wires a lot better and also give us access to a good grounding point. Then we can take our white and purple wire and start routing those over as well. So our ground wire is going to reach over to our driver's side and we have this nice flat section right here that we can attach it to the sheet metal using the provided self tapping screw. So I got a 3/8 nut driver. I'm just going to drill right into the bottom of the sheet metal right here. Since we're not going to be using our purple wire, I'm going to go ahead and take some electrical tape and I'm going to tape up the end of that connector. So hopefully it won't get any kind of corrosion build up inside.Now our gray duplex wire is going to have to run to the front of the vehicle. So I'm going to kind of push it up where the panel's going to be sitting. And then we have some existing wiring back here that I'm just going to zip tie to it for now. Because we know that wiring's not going to interfere with the panel. So we can just take one of the zip ties in our kit, zip tie our gray wire to the power wire for our trailer wiring. We're just going to secure it, so that we don't have to worry about it getting in the way of that panel. And then we can start putting the panel back in place. We're going to start putting our hardware back in. Now with the push pins, you're going to want to make sure you push that outer section in first. And then you push the center section in to lock it down. It may take a little bit of maneuvering to get the panel to line up and get the rest of your push pins in.Now to help protect the wires and keep it a little bit less visible, they do provide us with some wire loom. We're just going to open it up. We can slide it around the wires at the back of our connector, covering all the exposed wire and we can cut it to length. Then we can get some electrical tape and secure it, make sure it's not going to move around.now as I mentioned we are going to have to run our gray duplex wire up to the front of our Odyssey. So you want to make sure that you stay away from any heat sources like the exhaust or any moving parts like the steering or suspension components. So I'm going to run this wire and then I'll show you how I routed it.So my wire started from right underneath that panel. I started routing it towards the front and went above that bracket and above the sub frame here. And I came back down right by my fuel tank filler. Just tied it to some existing wiring using the zip ties in our kit. Started routing it along the factory brake lines and fuel lines. Then came up keeping in line with those lines. Then I have it coming down right here by the belly pan. So now we're going to get this up to the top of our vehicle. So we'll move underneath the hood and I'll show you how we're going to do that.So our wires going to have to come up and reach our battery, which is going to be right in front of our air box and our brake reservoir right here. So to help me get our wire up, I'm going to take a piece of airline tube and we're going to route it down through right by the firewall to reach down to the bottom of that wire. Then I can detach it and pull it up. You just want to be careful in when picking a spot you're going to go down. Because you want to stay away from the steering column as much as you can. And you don't want to be by any parts like the axle or anything like that. So it may take a little bit of patience and a little bit of time to get your wire down the right path you want. But once we have it down there, it'll be worth the trouble because we won't have to worry about anything going down the road later. And if you don't have an airline tube, you can use a coat hanger or anything that's just going to keep its shape when you start pushing and pulling on it.So here's where our airline tube came out, right by the belly pan and these existing lines. So I can take my airline tube and my wire, I'm going to take a little bit of electrical tape. I'm going to tape it to the airline tube so I won't loose it when I start pulling it up. Now we can move back up top and start pulling everything up to the engine bay. We can start pulling our wire up. Now once you get it up here, you want to make sure that you pull all the slack out because you don't want to big wad of it hanging down underneath and potentially catching on things when we're driving down the road. And it's never a bad idea to go underneath and just take a quick look to make sure it's not caught. So I'm going to take another one of the zip ties and I'm going to zip tie it to either some wiring or some factory lines here to help keep it up and from falling down. But also it's going to keep it nice and tight against the firewall and stay out of the way of anything else.So now our gray duplex wire is going to need to be split open again. However, this time instead of just splitting open that gray section just a little bit. We're going to want to go all the way back, all the way to the point to where we zip tied it, splitting it open and separating the two wires. So again we'll take a razor knife and very carefully cut the gray sheathing off until we can expose the two wires. Just want to take your time and be careful not to damage the wire inside. And it's easiest to do this a little bit at a time, that way you can just cut a little bit, open it up and then start peeling it back and working your way down the wire. So now that we have our wire stripped back, we're going to need to find a spot to mount our breakers. One for the power that's going to be going back to the seven way and one for the power that's going to be going to the brake controller.Now if we come right to the outer edge by our driver's side headlight, right here's going to be a good spot to mount them. Right against the frame rail right here. But to make it a little bit easier to get access to everything to mount them up, we're going to be removing this section of the air box as well as the covering over the radiator right here in the front. You're going to want to lift up and release those clips. We're just going to work our way over to the other side, releasing the clips. Then we can pull it off and set it aside.So there's going to be two push pins holding our air box in place. Now they're going to have some Phillips head heads on them. So we're going to grab a Phillips head screwdriver and we can loosen up that center section til it comes out. Then we can grab a flathead screwdriver or a trim panel tool and we can pop the outer section off. We'll do that for both of the push pins. So now we can lift up slightly and you're going to kind of want to work it back and forth because there is a little rubber seal on the end here and it'll pop right off. Now to mount our breakers, they provide us with some self tapping screws. And we found that it's rather difficult to get the drill in here to attach the screws to the side here. So even though we took our air box off, we're still going to be able to use that space if we come right to where that air box sat. And we come right behind it, we'll have right here on the core support and we can mount our breakers.Now I just want to mention you want to stay close to the battery side. You don't want to go too much to the passenger side because you are going to have some radiator hoses and everything you don't want those to get in the way. So we can take one of the self tapping screws and I'm just going to go right into the core support here. To make it a little bit easier in spacing our breakers as well, I'm actually going to use two of the mounting points on each one of the breakers as one. So I can take my self tapping screw going through one breaker and then going through the other mounting point on the other side of the other breaker. Then we can put the final screw in holding it all in place.On the side of our breaker, we're going to have some writing on it and this going to have the rating for the breaker itself. This one that we have mounted towards the center is going to be a 20 amp breaker and that's going to be for the brake controller itself. Now if you're using it for more that two axles, go ahead and put the 30 amp in but our Odyssey's only going to be pulling a double axle trailer. So we're going to use this 20 amp breaker. Now the other breaker we have is going to be a 40 amp breaker and that's going to be for the power source back at our seven way connector. You want to pay attention to which breaker you're hooking all your wires up to. You want to make sure that the black wire coming from the seven way connector at the back is hooked up to the 40 amp beaker and you don't get them mixed up.So you're going to want to route your black wire that we ran from the back up to the 40 amp breaker and you're going to want to estimate about how much wire you're going to need to attach it to it. Never bad idea to give yourself a little bit of excess. Then we can cut the wire. And you're going to want to hold on to the excess wire as well because we will be using that later. We can strip back the end. And then we're going to take one of the small ring terminals that they provide in our kit and we're going to crimp it in place. Now since this is coming back from the seven way. We're going to be connecting it to the silver post on the 40 amp breaker. And it's going to be hard to see but the post is going to have an AUX for auxiliary on the silver post. So we can loosen the nut. Then we're going to slide our ring terminal over the post and then loosely reinstall that nut so they won't fall off.Now we're going to take that excess black wire that we had, strip back one end of it, and we're going to attach another one of those small ring terminals to this end. And this one we're going to be attaching to the copper or goldish colored post on that same 40 amp breaker. Slide the wire over the terminal and then replace the nut. You're going to want to loosely route it over to the positive post of the battery. And again estimate about how much wire you're going to need to attach it and then we can cut back the end and strip it. And again hold onto that excess black wire because we're going to be using it.And this time on this end of our black wire, we're going to take the larger of the two ring terminals and crimp it into place. Now for right now we're not going to attach this until we get everything else hooked up. So we're just going to leave our wire out for now and we'll hook up our power later on. So we can move on to our white wire, if you remember is attached to the blue wire at the back of our seven way and that's going to be our brake output wire. So we're going to need to get to the inside of our Odyssey. So if we move directly back we'll see that there's a rubber grommet just towards the passenger side and up from where our brake booster is on the firewall. And that's going to be a good spot to go through and gain access.So that grommet's going to be right above the gas pedal and the steering column. And it's going to be rather high on the firewall. So if we come back and move up, our grommet's going to be right up in this area. Now fortunately there is a small cut already in there from the factory. So we should be able to pass everything through without having to cut the grommet itself. So again I'm going to be using that airline tube and you use your coat hanger or whatever you used before to pull that wire up. And we're going to push it through that grommet til it goes to the inside and we have a good hold of it. Once you make sure that your wire's through, you can gain access to it. We can go ahead and connect our white wire and pull it through just like we did bringing it up to the engine bay.So with our white wire attached on the outside. We can start pulling our airline tube in until our white wire comes in the inside. Now again once you have your white wire in, you're going to want to pull all the excess slack in here and make sure it didn't get tangled up in the engine bay. Once we have all the white wire in, we can go ahead and remove our airline tube and start working on the wiring for our brake controller.Now before we start wiring all our wires up and making our connections, we're going to need to find a spot that we're going to want to mount our brake controller. Because that way we can make sure that we have enough length of wire to reach everything. Now on the back of the brake controller, we're going to have this plug. And in the kit with your brake controller, you're going to have the pigtail that's going to connect into it. Now to make things easy on us, I'm going to go ahead and plug it in for now. Just so we can get an idea of how everything's going to route. So lock into place and we choose that we're going to mount our brake controller right about in this area just right of the steering wheel, right where this panel meets the top here. So we know that we're going to have a good amount of wire and to make things a little bit easier on ourselves, we're going to pull this panel out just a bit. We don't have to remove it all the way. But if we come to the edge right by the steering column, we can reach in and then just pull downward and it'll pop out the clips.I'm just going to work a little bit out so we can get some access. That way we can route our wires around and down to the bottom of the dash to meet up with the rest of our wiring. We can take the end of our pigtail wires. You're going to pull the panel out just a little bit and you're going to want to feed them down through this opening here until we can reach them at the bottom of the dash. And then we can make sure that we have enough length of wire to get everything connected. And we're going to have plenty of wire sticking out the bottom of the dash still. Now you can route your wires around some things, I just suggest that you go towards the middle and you stay away from the top section here because they do have those clips and you don't want to damage the wires.So once we have our brake controller in about the general spot that we're going to be mounting it. We can go ahead and clip those clips back into place. Putting the panel back in. We're going to go ahead and unplug the brake controller. So you're just going to lift up on that tab. And you're going to pull the pigtail out. So the white wire coming in from our engine bay is going to be connected to that blue wire at the back of our connector. So we're going to go ahead and cut this and strip back the end of our wire. Now again you want to hold on to that excess wire because we're going to use it here in a few minutes. So go ahead and strip it back. Then grab another one of our butt connectors and crimp it into place. So since this is our brake output wire, we're going to find the blue wire coming off of our pigtail and we're going to connect it into there and crimp it down.So now we can grab our black wire coming off our pigtail and we're going to connect another one of our butt connectors. Now the black wire coming off our pigtail is going to be for our power source for our brake controller. So we're going to need to grab that excess black wire that we had from earlier. And we're going to strip back the end of it and put it on the other end of our butt connector. Our white wire is going to be our ground. So we can take another one of our butt connectors and crimp it in place. Then we're going to take the excess white wire that we just got done with, strip back the end of it and put it in the other end. So now our black and white wire are going to need to go into the engine bay so we can hook our black wire up to that other breaker. And our ground wire is going to need to go directly to the negative side on the battery.So we're going to use that same method of using that airline tube, going through the engine bay and coming out here. So now we're going to secure our black wire and our white wire to the airline tube and pull it into the engine bay. Just take a little bit of electrical tape and we're going to wrap it around both the wire and the airline tube or whatever you're using. Because now it's two wires going through, it may be a little bit difficult getting it through that grommet and you don't want to lose it when you start pulling.So we'll go ahead and start with our ground wire. You're going to want to route this around anything that's in the way. So I'm going to go underneath my air box. We're going to route our white wire over to the negative side of our battery. Just go around. So we're going to estimate how much wire we need to reach the negative side of the battery. And we're going to go ahead and cut it back and strip back the end. We're going to grab another one of the large ring terminals and we're going to crimp it in place. So the nut holding our negative ground terminal in place. We're going to have to remove it. I'm going to be using a 10 millimeter socket to pull it off. So once we have that removed, we can take our white wire with the ring terminal on it and slide it over the negative post on the battery and then replace that nut.So now with our black wire we're going to hook it up the same way we did with our other breaker. We're going to route it over towards the breaker, estimate about how much wire we're going to need and then cut it and strip back the end. But also holding on to the excess black wire. Then we can grab one of our small ring terminals and crimp it on. Again we're going to be going to the silver post on our 20 amp breaker. So we're going to remove the nut and we're going to slide the ring terminal over the terminal. Then we can replace that nut. So now for that excess piece of black wire, we'll go ahead and strip back the end and we can put another small ring terminal in place.We're going to be attaching this to the gold or copper post on that 20 amp breaker. Again we're going to route this over to the positive side of the battery and estimate how much wire we're going to need to make that connection. We can cut our wire and strip back the end of it. Then grab another one of our large ring terminals and crimp it in place. Now again we're not going to hook this up quite yet. So we're just going to leave this here with our other ring terminal. So we should have one more wire coming off of our pigtail on the inside of our vehicle. It's going to be the red wire. And this wire's what our brake controller is going to use for the signal coming from our car. So if we come to our brake pedal itself and we follow the arm up, we're going to follow it until we find the brake switch itself. Now we're going to have several different colored wires coming off of it. And we're going to need to test each one of these to where you get a 12 volt power source only when the brake pedal is applied.Now I'm going to be using a circuit tester. It does look a little bit different but it's going to work the same way as the one that comes in the kit. So I'm going to be testing this purple wire here. And we see that I'm not getting any power. But when I push on the brake pedal it lights up and makes a sound letting me know that, that's going to be my brake switch. So that purple wire is going to be the wire that we're going to need to tap into for our red wire coming off the back of the pigtail. To make it a little bit easier to gain access to the wires so we can start making our connections. If we look right on the side of the brake switch here, there's going to be a plastic clip holding the wires tight. If we take a trim panel tool or a flathead screwdriver, we can pop it off and it'll give us just a little bit more room to work with. And we can pull some of this wire loom off. You want to be careful not to damage the wires if you do have to cut it.So just be careful when you're pulling that loom down and pulling it away from the wires. I got a little bit more room now, not much but any bit of room under the dash is always better than none. So we can come to our purple wire and you're going to want to cut that wire and strip back both ends of it. So you're going to take your red wire and one end of the purple wire and you're going to twist them together and you're going to put it one end of the butt connector. Then we can take the other end of our purple wire and put it into the other side of the butt connector and crimp it into place.You want to make sure to shrink down your connections on your butt connectors. Just be extra careful since it is on the inside of the car now. Now to mount the brake controller, we have a few different brackets. But we're going to be using this detachable style one. It's going to mount to this small and then the small bracket will mount to what's actually going to hold our brake controller. Now when we go to mount our brake controller, the really only big concern is that it's going to be on a level plane. You don't want to have it cocked to the side either way. But the angle isn't going to be a big concern. So you're going to want to get your bracket it nice and straight. Then we can take some of the screws that they provide in our kit and we're going to go right into the plastic.I'm going to leave this one a little loose so I can make sure that I get the second one in nice and straight. Once you're sure you have it straight, go ahead and tighten it up. Then we can take our other bracket and we're going to slide these two little tabs on the inside of the bracket we just mounted. We're going to line up the holes on the side here with the holes in the bracket. Again we can take some of these small screws and we're going to screw them in. So you may need to get a nut driver with the Phillips bit because of the limited space we have here. Now that we have this one in, we'll go ahead and put the other side in as well.So then we can take our brake controller. Again we're going to plug it into the back. Want to make sure that it locks into place. And then if you take your brake controller coming from the front, kind of want to feed it into the pocket. And these tabs here are going lock onto the side of the brake controller if you get it lined in right. And then we have a little bit of adjustment here to where we can move it so it's not in the way of our foot.So now you can go ahead and take your time. And you're going to want to clean up all your wires under your dash. Go ahead and tuck them under the dash, zip tie them to any existing wiring underneath. Just want to make sure they're not going to be hanging down by your feet here. So I just put a few zip ties on our wires here to clean it up a little bit. Now we can come back and we can tighten up all the nuts that are on our breakers. So you're going to want to grab a 3/8 socket. We can go ahead and tighten them up. So now the only thing we have left is to hook the power up. So we can lift the cover on our positive post of our battery and we're going to be attaching it directly to this nut right here where there's already a terminal. So I'm going to 12 millimeter socket and we can loosen up that nut.Now you just want to make sure that if anything does come off, like that yellow ring terminal, you want to make sure you put all the other accessories back on. So we can slide both of the ring terminals from our breakers over that and then we can replace the nut. May need to move the wire just a little bit so that ring terminal can clear the post. Then you can tighten down the rest of the way. As you can see our battery cover isn't going to close because of the wires are in the way. So you can just take a pair of cutters and we're just going to cut out a section here so it can clear it. Now the battery cover will close and just cut this little piece off. So we can put the front section of our air box back in place. And the easiest way to get these in is you're going to want to get that rubber boot on first, kind of work it back and forth until you can get it in. Then it'll line up with the front just fine. Put our push pins back in place.And with these, the screw section you can actually just put it in and push it down and it'll lock it into place. Then we can put our radiator cover back on. Just want to make sure you get that latch in between in the right section. Once you have it all lined up, just go around pushing all the push pins back in place. Now this parts going to be completely optional. But just to hide these wires and clean it up a little bit, I'm going to take the rest of that loom that I had and I'm going to cover my wires and cut it to length. Get an estimate about how much we need, cut a section of it off. Then we can wrap it around our wires, help hiding it a little bit better, make it look a little bit nicer. We just tuck it back into the dash where the rest of the wires are going. Then put a little bit of electrical tape on the end here to keep it nice and still and secure.So I got my tester plugged up. Not only to check to make sure that my lights are functioning properly, but we can also make sure that the brakes are working whenever we apply the brakes. So if I turn on the headlights, we can see that that circuit's working properly as well as both turn signals and the brakes. Now we can see that if I hit the manual override button, we'll see the meter go up for the brake current. Knowing that we're getting power back there, which means our brake circuit is working properly. So all we need to do now is hook up to our trailer and hit the road.And that'll finish up your look at the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller for one to four axles part number 90195 on our 2018 Honda Odyssey.


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