Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Mazda CX-5

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2020 Mazda CX-5


Ryan: Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2020 Mazda CX-5 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness. So probably my favorite thing about this wiring is the fact that it's not going to be visible whenever you're not using it. And to be honest with you, I really like the look of these new CX-5s. And to me, just one less thing hanging down underneath of our SUV is definitely beneficial. And not to mention since it does live inside, when we aren't using it, it's going to be out of the weather and should last a lot longer.However, with that being said, let me show you how it does work whenever you do need to plug in.

All you have to simply do is open up your hatch and over here on the driver's side, we have a little compartment, pop that up, and that's where your wiring is going to live. So really nice and convenient. All you have to do is drop it over your threshold here and anywhere on the threshold is fine. You just want to avoid the latch. If you get caught in there, it may get pinched and get damaged.

That being said, once you have it draped over, you close your hatch on it, and then you're going to be ready to plug into your trailer.One of the really nice things too about this kit is the fact that it uses a module box. So what that module box is going to do is protect your vehicle's factory wiring. If it's short or some type of electrical issue or we're to occur on the trailer side. And with today's vehicles, that's really important. A lot of them have really advanced electronics and you wouldn't want to risk jeopardizing them or potentially damaging them.

With the module box, you're know you're safe and covered.The kit is going to give us plenty of length as far as wire goes. So we shouldn't have any issues hooking up to our trailer, or you can even use this too for those light up accessories, some cargo carriers and things of that nature actually have lights on them and a lot of them have this 4-way flat connector. So you could always plug your wiring into that too if you happen to have that accessory. The wires and the whole kit for that matter is well-built, they're nice and thick and should really hold up nicely.It's going to have a thick, rubber dust cap. That's going to help protect your terminals.

Now, even though this does live inside of our SUV, I would recommend just to go that extra mile and from time to time apply some dielectric grease on them. The cap since it is permanently attached, what's nice about this too, is say, if you happen to maybe drop your trailer, planning on coming back soon to pick it up and you don't want to have to deal with kind of putting your wiring back inside, you can always just loop that tab around your safety chain opening and temporarily store it this way.The wiring is going to put out a maximum rating of five amps per circuit for your stop and turn signals and 7.5 amps per circuit for your tail lights. So more or less what that means is it's going to provide our trailer with plenty of power, whether it has the older incandescent style bulbs or the newer style LEDs. But at the end of the day, a good setup. The wiring is going to be there when you need it to, but it's going to be out of sight and out of mind whenever you're not using it.Now, as far as the installation goes, for the most part, it's relatively straightforward. It just simply plugs into our factory tail lights. So nothing really too complicated there. I will say probably the most time-consuming part is having to run the power wire from the back of our CX-5 up into the engine compartment. But I'll show you the path that I took to get there and how I did it. Speaking of which let's go ahead and hook it up together now.To begin our installation, we're going to be working inside of the back of our Mazda. So we go ahead and open up our hatch. And what we're going to need to do is remove any of our floor coverings. So I'll start with this big main one, just kind of lift up on it, pull it up, work it out and set it to the side. And on each side, we're also going to have these small panels that will pop out and get them removed as well. We can also pull out our foam compartments here. Now on ours, on the passenger side, you do have some wiring that kind of runs through it. We'll just kind of pop that out. We're able to pull both of our foam pieces out from the back.Now we can remove our plastic threshold here. The first piece we're going to have to take off around the latch, we're going to have a little punch out. And what we're going to do is just take a flat head screwdriver, kind of just work underneath it to pop it out of place. And then at each end of our threshold, we're going to have a push pin style fastener just like this, that will come out as well. So we'll take our flat head and we get underneath the head of that fastener. Pop the head out and then we can get underneath the base and pull it completely out. Then we can grab the bottom of our threshold, kind of pull towards the front and then also pull up towards you.What we're doing is just releasing the fasteners underneath. We can see once we have it free, we'll set it off to the side. With the threshold out of the way, it's going to expose another push pin fastener. So again, we'll grab our flat head, pry underneath the head and work it out. And if you move just to the inside, we're going to have a little cargo hook there and if we pop open the cover, that will expose a 10 millimeter bolt underneath there. We're also going to need to remove that. We'll loosen up that bolt and pull that whole cargo hook out. And if we kind of follow our plastic panel up towards the front of our car, we're going to have another hook here. And if you just lift up on it, that'll expose another 10 millimeter bolt. We'll get that removed.And then what we can do is kind of come to the back of our panel here and pull it out. So I'll just use my hands, kind of work my way up it to pop it out, about there will work. We just need enough room that we can kind of get our hands back in this opening and get our wiring hooked up. Now, the other side of our CX-5 is set up the exact same way. So I just repeated that process. That way our panel will come out and let us work in here.Now on the driver's side, we can locate our factory tail light plug. So if we follow the wire down, our connector's going to be located right here. We're going to get it disconnected and the way to do that is to push down on this center tab and pull the two connectors apart. Now we can grab our new wiring and we're going to take the T-connector side that has a yellow, brown and white wires. What we're going to do, one side of it is going to plug into one side of our factory wiring. And the other side of our T-connector, we'll plug into that other side of our factory wiring.Now we can take the white wire coming out of our module box, with the pre-attached ring terminal and grounded to the body of our vehicle. On our case, it works out pretty good. What I'm going to do is just utilize this factory ground right here. So if we remove that 10 millimeter bolt, we're able to pull that out. What we can do is take the bolt, pass it through the ring terminal on our white wire. Make sure we put it back through this factory ground wire and re-secure it to the body of our CX-5.And here's what it looks like once we have it secured. Now, what we're going to have to do is take our bundle of black power wire and get it to drop down to the bottom side of our SUV. Well, it turns out right here, we have a grommet that'll work perfectly, but we do need to drill a small hole on it. I went ahead and looked underneath to make sure we won't accidentally drill into something of importance and we're all in the clear. So with that being said, I'll take a small drill bit and create an opening for our wire to run through.So now we can grab one end of our black power wire, the big bundle of it and run it through that hole that we created. We're going to feed this all the way through until we have maybe a foot or so left up top here to work with. Now with the footer cell wire that we left up top here, we can get ready to connect it to our module box. So what we're going to do is strip back the installation. I like to kind of twist the wires nice and tight, give us a better connection.And we're going to grab a butt connector. I'm using a heat shrink butt connector because it does give us a little more protection against corrosion. You can find these at etrailer If you'd rather use this style, but the one that does come included in the kit will work just fine. So the bare end of the wire, we'll slide into the butt connector and we'll crimp it down. The other end of the butt connector if we take the black power wire coming out of our module box, bearing to the wire, we'll go into it. We'll crimp that side down too.Now, since this is a heat shrink connector, what I'll do is grab my heat source and seal off the ends. Now we can go ahead and secure our module box. What I think I'm going to do is this kind of push it right here in this area kind of in-between these two wires and use a couple of zip ties to bundle everything together. So I'll go ahead and do that now and show you what it looks like once I have it done. So here's what our module box looks like now that we have it zip tied up. Now, what I did was take the red and green wire and route that over to the passenger side of our vehicle. So I just followed this factory wiring and just used a couple zip ties along the way to secure it.And I took the end of it, the T-connector and plugged it into our factory tail light wiring just like we did on the other side. So what I did was just kind of bundle up any extra wiring we had hanging over here on the driver's side and just secured it to clean up or install look. And now it would be a good time too to move down to that grommet that we ran our power wire through and just use a little bit of silicone, which you can pick up here etrailer just to kind of help seal everything up.Now, we can do is push all of our interior panels back into place and start to get everything back together back here. I do you want to mention the weatherstripping a lot of times when you push that panel in, it'll kind of pinch that weatherstripping. So you may have to kind of work that weatherstripping up kind of as you put your panel back into place. Once our panels are secured, we can go ahead and reinstall our threshold here. And we can set our foam back into place. Once our foam is in, what I kind of like to do is take our 4-pole flat wiring, just kind of run it around it.And eventually this'll be a decent compartment that we can store our wiring in whenever we're not using it. And finally, we can reinstall all of our floor covers. Now I went ahead and routed the power wire underneath of our Mazda up into the engine compartment and I'll show you the path that I took. Right here you can see is where it drops out of that grommet and I just use some zip ties to secure it along the way. And you want to do your best to avoid any hot or moving parts. The wiring pulls up nice and tight, you can see the frame here is over our subframe, and drops down right here.I kind of just ran it forward along some of that factory wiring. And you can pull these panels down to give you a little bit more room. There's also a couple of 10 millimeter bolts you can pull out if you do need this extra space. I just continued to follow. This is my factory wiring right along through here. Just keeps going forward. And right through here is where I ran it up into the engine compartment. Now, an easy way to get it up there where you need it is to grab another length of wire, a coat hanger or something like that you can use as a pull wire. You're going to drop that down from the top of the car, from the engine compartment, down to the bottom.Once that pole wires down here, you can tape your power wire to it, go back up into the engine compartment and then you can just grab that pull wire and feed it up and that'll bring that wire, the power wire to right where you need it. So here's where our power wire ran up into the engine compartment. Now, what we need to do is connect our power wire to the included fuse holder. First thing you want to do, open that lit up and make sure the fuse is not installed. Once you verify that, we're going to cut the fuse holder and half here. And we're going to strip back both ends of the installation.You also want to make sure that you strip back the insulation on the end of the black power wire here. That being said, we'll give these a twist. One end is going to receive a butt connector. We'll take our black power wire, connect it into the other end of our butt connector there. And the other end of our fuse holder is going to receive the ring terminal. Just slide that over and crimp it down.Since I used a heat shrink butt connector up here as well, I'll go ahead and grab my heat gun and get that sealed up. Our ring terminal is going to get connected to the positive side of our battery. So what I'm going to do, you flip that little cover open. We're going to loosen up this nut with a 10 millimeter. And we'll try to take the nut completely off. Some of them are designed to where they're not really intended to come completely off. If that's the case, you'll feel the nut just kind of bind up. If that happens, we'll stop. This one feels pretty easy. So I think it's going to come completely off, which it did.So what we're going to do is take the ring terminal, slide it over that stud and then reattach our nut. Snug that down. We can grab our included fuse and place that into the holder. Then I just went ahead and cut a little notch here in the corner of her cover. That way we could close it without having to worry about pinching our wire.Now that we have everything hooked up, it's a good idea to test our wiring to make sure it's working properly. I'm using a tester you can pick up here at etrailer or you can always just plug into your trailer and do it that way. That being said, we'll try our left turn signal, our right turn signal, our brake lights and our running lights. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harnessdros on our 2020 Mazda CX-5.


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Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Chris R
Installed by:
Cole B
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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