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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2006 Nissan Quest - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2006 Nissan Quest

Today in our 2006 Nissan Quest, we're going to take a look at, and show you how to install Curt custom fit class 3 trailer hitch receiver. This is part #C13563. Here's what the hitch is going to look like once you get it installed. As you can see, really clean, nice looking hitch here. Just a small little taper bracket, and then your actual receiver tube opening. It's very conveniently located, flush here with the rear bumper that goes down.

Our cover's actually going to wrap around the heavy duty tube that runs across. So, you know, one of the cleanest looking hitches that your really going to find. There's nothing excess sticking out there. This is class three hitch. This is going to be great for medium, light duty towing.

Really good for all the hitch mounted bike racks, cargo carriers, things like that. Now, the hitch is going to haul for a 3500 pound gross trailer weight rating, and a 300 pound ton weight rating. If you go to weight distribution, we can up to 5000 pounds on the trailer weight, and 500 pounds on the tongue weight. Although, you will want to look into the manual of the Quest and make sure that's something it could handle. If not, just go off of whatever of those numbers are the lowest. You're going to have a 5/8 diameter hitch pin hole.

This is going to allow us to use many of the 5/8 diameter hitch pin accessories, such as your hitch pin locks, or anti rattle devices. We've got the rounded style safety chain connections on each point, or on each side rather. Be a good contact point to connect your chains, and/or any kind of straps or something that might be required for a bike rack. Now a couple of measurements that will helpful in selecting your bike rack ball mounter maybe hitch cargo carrier. These are going to be from the ground, to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening. We've got about 10-1/4".

From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of the bumper, it's about 5/1/4". Now for the first step in our installation, we're going to be pulling two push pin fasteners that are here on the back side of our car that kind of hold the bumper in place. As you can see, this tab is already broken. We still want to pull it down, and get it out of the way. So you want to pull the center of that fastener out first. With that center out a little bit, we should be able to work that main core out. Now let's get this exhaust down, and out of the way so we can get to our access, or our mounting location holes. There's going to be a rubber hanger, that's right here on the inside of this little piece of fender. We're going to hit that with a little bit of spray lubricant, just to kind of help that slide in and out. Right here in the middle of the vehicle, there's going to be two nuts, that stick off of studs coming out the bottom of the chassy. We're also going to put a little bit on there, just to help those come off when the time comes. Now, before we start removing anything, let's put a safety strap under the vehicle. We're just using a little cam buckle strap. Find a good connection point on each side. We want this to go right underneath the exhaust, so once we take off the hangers, it'll have something to rest on. So it's not getting undo stress up in the front area there. Now for our outside hanger, we're just going to kind of pry either the top, or the bottom of that rubber off of the metal stud that it's on there. It'll come down, there. Now let's go to the middle, and take off our two nuts. As we take this other one out, let's just kind of hold your hand under it so it doesn't, you know, fall. Very good, that'll give us some room to kind of work. As you can see that hanger that's up there supporting it pretty well. As you can see that bolt we had there broke off. Not a big deal. We'll just use a self tapping screw, and go into the metal. It'll re secure that ground. Up above there, there's also a bolt that we want to remove. It'll be right here at the other end of that strap. Got that out of the way. Let's also take off the two bolts, one here, and one up front there, holding our heat shield up. Now the heat shield and bolts, we won't be reusing. The grounding strap, we will. So, set the other things aside, but hang onto your grounding strap and your bolt. Now let's take a look at our attachment points. Here on the driver's side, we are going to be using the weld nuts are located here, here, and here. Now in each of these holes, we're going to clean them out. We use a little bit of spray lubricant, and then a nylon tube brush. Now this is part #814092. Just a little tube brush. If you don't have one, pick it up, it'll make this job easier. It's going to make those bolts go in and out of those, or at least in those holes, easier cause we won't have that dirt and debris holding them up. Alright, now let's go do the same thing for the passenger side. They're a little harder to see, but they're going to be in the exact same locations here. We've got one, two, and three. Now we'll just take our hardware. Let's thread one in each hole just to make sure it's going to go in there without any kind of issue. We'll do that for the four remaining holes, and if those check out, we'll grab our hitch. Before we get out hitch up into position, we're going to bend our tabs down. Just like this. This is going to give us a little bit of clearance room, to help get the hitch back into place. We'll be careful not to damage them. We'll bend them back up once we've got our hitch into position so we can secure our tab. As we raise our hitch into position, we'll be pulling out on the bumper to give it the clearance it needs. It's going to slide right up here in this pocket, so it'll be nice and hidden. We'll guide the back of it kind of up and in, and then while pulling out on our bumper, we'll want to rotate it kind of up into it's location there. Now we'll line up our holes here. Once we get one our bolts started here in the passenger side, we can go over and get one started here in the driver's side. Alright, now let's start our other four bolts. We're going to have the three that discussed on each side. Alright, and then we want to push our hitch, all the way over to the driver's side. That's going to give us as much clearance room as possible for our exhaust. Then we'll snug our bolts down. Now we'll grab our torque wrench, and torque them down to specification. Here you can see, our hardware's in place. This is an M12 bolt. One really key thing that you'll want to keep in mind, is that when we put our washer's in place, we want the teeth to face up towards the hitch. That's the only real rule. There's no order in which you have to do them. Just have your teeth facing the hitch, and you'll be fine. Now before we put our exhaust back in place, we have to remember to put our ground wire on. Now if you remember, I broke that nut off, or that bolt off, when I was trying to remove it. So I'm going to use the surface right in between the hanger there, and that, and use a self tapping screw to re-secure it. With that nice and secure, we'll put the bolt right up back where it came from. Alright, now let's start putting our hangers back in place. We got the small rubber one here in the back. That clicked on. Let's head up, and take care of the one in the middle. All you'll need to do is realign the hanger with the studs, and put the nuts back on. Alright, don't forget to pull down our strap here. Alright, and lastly let's get our tabs taken care of in the rear, after we pull down our safety strap. I'm going to stick that back through there, and then put our center push pin in it. That'll hold that up nice and tidy. .

Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Chris R
Video by:
Chris R

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