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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2008 Subaru Legacy - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2008 Subaru Legacy

Today on our 2008 Subaru Legacy we're going to take a look and show you how to install the Draw-Tite class three custom fit trailer hitch receiver. This is part number 75560. Here you can see the hitch once we get it put on the vehicle. It's a really nice, clean looking hitch. It's not one of the straight across; it's got that taper to it. It draws back just a small bar there that we can see.

This is a class three style. It's going to give us the 2" opening that we see here. Great for trailers, bike racks, cargo carriers. Whatever it is you want to do with the hitch, this will do the job for you. Now this is rated for a 4,000 pound maximum trailer weight capacity, a 400 pound tongue weight capacity. Of course you need to check the Legacy's owners manual to make sure that yours isn't rated for lower.

You just use whichever of those numbers are going to be the lowest. You can see we've got a dual pin setup. The larger hole is going to be for the standard 5/8 pin, anti-rattle bolt, whatever device you decide to use there. The hole in front, that's for the j-pin. That's a stabilization pin that will go in there and also allow you to stabilize whatever you've got in there and lock it up. We've got the nice large collar on the front.

Any of your immobilizers will go around there. Those are going to work just fine as well. Of course you're going to have your safety chain connections here for stabilizing your bike rack or maybe connecting safety chains if you decide to do any kind of hauling. You can see a little silver piece there. It kind of stands out.

Wouldn't be a bad idea just to take a little bit of black spray paint, hit it with it just so it doesn't stand out quite as much. Now a couple of measurements that will be helpful in selecting your ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier will be from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening we've got about 9-1/2". From the center of the hitch pinhole to the outermost edge of our bumper it's about 2-1/2". Now the first step in our installation's going to be to lower our exhaust down. We're going to have a total of five exhaust hangers. We've got one located on the front corner and on the rear corner of each of our exhaust outlet pipes here. One here, the other one here. That's going to make up four. Then right up here in the middle we're going to have the fifth one. That's right in front of this rear differential there in the middle. We want to support the exhaust from underneath. Just find a good connection point in there where we can bring our strap around. We don't want it to hang on its own. It might cause A, too much stress, and might actually do some damage. Last thing we want to do is damage our car when we're trying to put a hitch on it. Just cinch that down. Then we'll take a little bit of spray lubricant and we're going to hit each of these exhaust hangers just to help it when it's time to pull it off. Now we'll start working our hangers off. It's like a rubbery material. You just slide it off. Sometimes they cooperate and they'll come off real easy, and sometimes they don't. If you need to, you can grab a pray bar or something like that or a screwdriver and just help work them off. With those loosened up, let's just lower that exhaust down slightly and give us some room to work. Now we can get a good look at our connection points with that exhaust out of the way. See this little black plastic cap here. We're going to be pulling these out. Inside of there we've got existing weld nuts. We're going to be using that one there, and also the second black cover located up from the rear of the car there. Now let's go over to the passenger side, remove those same plugs. Now for each of our attachment points we're going to take a little bit of spray lubricant, hit them in there. Then we're going to take a nylon tube brush, try to clean these weld nuts out. It's nice that they're existing and in the frame so we don't have to do a bunch of fish wiring stuff. It's really going to make the install a little bit of a simpler process, but there's a lot of dirt and debris that will build up in these things and you won't be able to get your bolts in. Let's do that on the other side. Now we'll grab one of the M10 bolts. As you can see, we've already put the conical tooth washer on it. Those teeth are going to face up towards our hitch. Right now we're just going to check to make sure all of our threads are clear and that we can thread these in and out without any kind of issue. Last thing we want to do is be holding our hitch up and then not be able to get our bolt started. Perfect. Now let's grab our hitch and put it up into position. Now it says to first use our center tow loop connection point here to do the hitch, but I prefer to start my two bolts on the outside, one on each side just to hold the hitch up into position. Once we get that started good, let's head over here to the other side and do the same thing. Then we'll just let our hitch rest right there. For the middle we're going to need our 1/2" spacer block. The 1/2" carriage bolt's going to fit right into that, keep it from spinning. We're going to place that right up through our tow hook, raise our hitch up into position. As you can see, that bolt's going to come right through there. Then we're going to put on a conical tooth washer. Again, the teeth of that should face up towards the hitch, and also put on a hex bolt. Now let's get our other two 10mm bolts started. Let's go to the passenger side and get the last one in over here. Now we'll take a quick look to be sure we have our hitch centered. That looks good. Now we'll snug down our bolts. Then we'll grab our torque wrench and get them torqued down to specification. Now your torque specs will be right in your instruction manual so just take a look there. Now that we've got everything snugged down, we want to check the level on the hitch. The hitch is going to be . it will provide you with four spacers that you can use if need be. We're nice and level here so we won't have to apply those today. Now let's get the exhaust put back into place. We're going to, just like before, hit each of our hangers with a little bit of lubricant. Then we'll start working them back up into place. Then we'll lastly do the one right here in the middle. That nice back and secure, we'll pull our strap out. That's really all there is to it. We're ready to get hooked up to whatever it is we want to do and head down the road. With everything back in place, that's going to complete today's installation of the Draw-Tite custom fit class three trailer hitch receiver, part number 75560, on our 2008 Subaru Legacy. .

Info for this part was:

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Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
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Test Fit:
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