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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2011 Honda CR-V - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2011 Honda CR-V

Today on our 2011 Honda CRV, we're going to review and install our Curt Class 3 2 Inch Receiver Tube Hitch part number 13555. Now here is what our hitch is going to look like once it's installed. As you can see, the solid steel fully wielded construction with a nice black powdered coated finish. We've got a nice stylish round tube as our hitch is exposed but it's tucked up underneath the rear face nicely. The only thing really sticking out but not out pass the rear bumper is our receiver tube 5/8 predrilled pin holes and our chain hole downs. This is our class 3 hitch with a 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening.

It's capable of up to 350 pounds of tongue weight and 3,500 tow capacity. Nice I'll give you a couple of measurements to assist you in selecting accessories for your new hitch. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is 2 3/4 inches. From the top of the receiver tube opening down to the ground is 15 3/4 inches. This will assist you in selecting accessories such as a ball mount, bike rack or cargo carrier. We'll now go ahead with the installation.

Now before we get on our install, let's just review some of the simple tools needed for this installation. Some spray lubricant, tube brush, 11 1/16 inch socket and ratchet along with our torque wrench. Other tools can be supplemented to make the job a little easier but these are the basic necessities needed for installing the hitch. To begin our install, we first need to lower the muffler. Now to lower the exhaust, we need to remove the 2 rubber isolators from the metal hanger. The one on the outside of the muffler is kind on the top about the 2:00 position on our muffler.

Now we have the one on the inside here which is about the 11:00 position. To remove the rubber isolator from the metal hanger, we'll spray each one with the spray lubricant and then use a pry bar or pliers to remove the rubber isolator from the metal hanger. Now with the muffler down, we can go ahead and point out our attachment points. This hitch is going to have a total of 5 attachments points, 4 will be the wield nuts built into the frame by the manufacturer, 2 on each side. Here on the passenger side above the exhaust we can see the 2 wield nuts and they are right here close to the end of the frame. Now here on the driver side, we'll also going to have wield nuts that are built into the frame by the manufacturer but starting at the end of the frame it will be the second and third wield nut.

Before I attempt to install the hitch and the new fastener, we're going to want to clean out the wield nuts because overtime the threads will build up with rust, dust, dirt and debris and can make it difficult to install the new fasteners. First we'll spray each wield nut with a spray lubricant, then use our 1/2 inch nylon tube brush part number 814092 to thoroughly clean out the threads of the wield nut. Then once they are cleaned out, I recommend to take one of the new fasteners and run it into the wield nut to make sure it's going to go nice and easily. Now that I know the new hardware nice and easily, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process for the other 3 wield nuts. Now each one of our wield nut attachment points is going to get a new 10 millimeter bolt and conical tooth washer. The teeth of the washer will face the hitch as it will go through the hitch and into the wield nut. Now our fifth attachment point is going to be the manufacturers tail hook here. That would be our center fastener. It will be a U bolt that will go around the tow hook and then through the hitch getting secured with 2 7/16 flange nuts. We are now ready to go ahead and put our hitch in place. It's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you hold the hitch while you install the fasteners. We'll go ahead and feed the passenger side up above the exhaust then bring both sides up to the frame, install the hardware into the wield nuts. Now with all the wield nut fasteners in place, move to the center, install the 2 flange nuts onto the U bolt. Once we have all the hardware in place, we can go ahead and tighten it down. Now keep in mind as you tighten down your U bolt, you want to make sure you tighten down both sides evenly. Now with all our fasteners tightened down, we'll go ahead and torque to specifications as indicated in the instructions. Now with our hitch installed, tightened down and torque to specifications, we'll go ahead and reinstall the exhaust. Slide our rubber isolators back onto the metal hanger. Now with everything reinstalled, we're ready to hit the road and that will do it for the review and install of the Curt Class 3 2 Inch Receiver Tube Hitch part number 13555 on our 2011 Honda CRV. .

Questions and Comments about this Video


My 10mm bolts don't fit my 2011 CR-V. What am I doing wrong?

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

I'm guessing they were slightly too large? If that's the case then you will want to use a spray lubricant and a wire brush # 814113 to clean out anything that has built up on the threads. If that doesn't work then you'll want to use a tap # PTW8618 to ensure the threads will match up.

Reply from Mike

@JonG I ended up using a 10mm 1.25 tap,. Clean as a whistle. Thank you.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

@Mike Glad to hear you were able to get it working!

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