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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 Honda Odyssey - Draw-Tite

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch on a 2012 Honda Odyssey


Speaker 1: Today on this 2012 Honda Odyssey, we will be having a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite class three trailer hitch receiver, part number 76025.Here's what our hitch looks like installed. Now what many of our customers with Honda Odysseys have complained about is that the other hitches on the market for the Odyssey, they hang down really low underneath the fascia. This one, however, is a completely different story. It's tucked up completely behind our fascia, giving us better looks, and also improving the ground clearance on the vehicle. So we don't have to worry about the hitch dragging on the ground, ever pulling in a steep driveway, or going up a steep incline.On the side of our receiver, you'll find two pin holes. The one closest to the front of the vehicle, which is the larger diameter hole, is our industry standard 5/8 of an inch standard hitch pin hole to secure any of our hitch-mounted accessories.

You can pick up a pin and clip on our website, as part number PC3.This smaller hole here closest to the rear of the receiver, that's for a J-pin stabilization device. What that does is take away the annoying shake, play, and rattle on what is inserted into your receiver. We have one of those available as well.Welded on the bottom of our receiver are our rolled steel safety chain loops, which are easily accessible. We shouldn't have any problem at all hooking most safety chains onto your trailer.Welded onto the back of our receiver is this collar right here, which helps give us a nice, finished look, and helps reinforce the receiver opening here, giving us a little added strength.This hitch features a 525 pound max tongue weight rating, which is the amount forcing down, and a 3,500 pound max gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount it can pull. You want to make sure you consult the owner's manual of your Odyssey, and not exceed what the vehicle's rated for.

Go by whichever number is less.Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch-mounted accessory you may need, such as a ball mount, a bike rack, or a cargo carrier. We're looking at about 12 and a half inches from the ground to the top of the two inch receiver opening, and about five inches from the center of the hitch pin hole to the rearmost part of the back bumper.Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed.To begin our install, we'll open our rear hatch. Now at each corner of our fascia, below our tail light assembly, we'll find two 5mm hex bolts that we need to remove. Now underneath the vehicle, we have several plastic fasteners we need to remove. One, two, three, we'll have a fourth one here, and then a fifth one here.

The way these work is that there's a center section that pops out. You can use a flathead screwdriver or a trim handle tool. Work the center section down, and then the whole clip will come out with it. We'll continue doing the same for all these clips until we have all of them removed.Now we need to remove this 10mm screw right here on the passenger side. So we have a Phillips screw here.

With that screw removed, we can now take the side panel, pull it down and out of the vehicle.Now in each one of our wheel wells, we'll have three belt 00:03:52 screws that we need to remove. Keep in mind that everything we do on one side, we'll be repeating on the other side.Now with an extra set of hands, we can remove our rear fascia. We'll start by grabbing it where it meets our fender here, and pulling it away from the vehicle. As we're pulling the fascia away, we may find a wiring harness if we have rear parking sensors. That's what this is for right here. We'll press in on the tab, and pull the wiring harness apart.With our wiring harness disconnected on both sides, we can now safely pull the fascia completely away from the vehicle and set it aside where it won't get damaged.Now we need to do some modifications to our bumper beam in order for our fascia to go back on once the hitch is in place. These three sections here, we need to flatten these out a little bit in order to have proper clearance. In order to do that, use a hammer and give it a few hits. Here's what it looks like once we have them flattened out enough.See this styrofoam piece that's on top of our bumper beam We can lift it off right now and set it aside. Now we need to unbolt our bumper beam. In order to do that, with these large holes on each side, we'll find 14mm bolts. These bolts, we can just leave in place until we have our bumper beam off. And then we can turn it upside down, and they'll fall out. With all of our hardware out, we can now take our bumper beam and set it aside.And now we'll take our washers. These will go over our holes where our bumper beam is bolted in place. And then you take some tape, and we'll tape these there so we don't have to worry about getting them in position as we're raising the hitch into position.Now we're going to orient our hitch and bumper beam together off the vehicle. That way we can raise it together as one assembly. The bumper beam will go over the hitch like this, and we'll have new hardware. I have a long bolt and a conical tooth washer. The teeth will face towards the bumper beam. It has a 17mm head on it. We'll go through the bumper beam and the hitch like this.Now with an extra set of hands, we're raising the hitch and the bumper beam assembly up. And we're using an extension with a 17mm socket to thread our bolt into place. With the top one in place, we can now do the bottom one. Okay, now that we have these bolts started, we can snug them down. We'll now torque these bolts to the amount specified in the instructions.Underneath the vehicle on each side, we'll find a tab on our hitch directly below the well nut. This will serve as another attachment point for the hitch. It's a good idea to take some spray lubricant, go inside that well nut. Then you can use a wire brush, which we have on our website, it's part number 814092. Run it in and out a couple times to help clean up the threads of any debris that may be in there for the rust. This will make the bolt go in a lot easier.And with the well nut cleaned out, we can now slide our spacer block into place between the hitch and the frame of the vehicle. And we'll use our larger diameter bolt with a conical tooth washer, and the teeth will face towards the hitch. And we'll thread that into place. Then we'll tighten it down. And then we'll torque it to the amount specified in the instructions.Okay, now on the bottom section of our fascia, underneath the vehicle, we've marked out, according to the instructions, the area we need to cut out. If you have a sharp utility knife, you can do this. I'm going to use a rotary tool, because I find I have more control and can make a cleaner cut with this.Now this area here where our tailpipe sticks out, we need to trim out this inside area too. We'll continue using our rotary tool to do this.Now because we beat these sections in a little bit to have clearance for our fascia, we'll need to trim our styrofoam pad around those areas so it'll sit flush with the top of our bumper beam. We'll just use our rotary tool again to do that. Once you have it trimmed a little bit, it'll pop off, and we'll continue doing the same for the other two. It now sits back flush with our bumper beam.Now we can reinstall our fascia, making sure if we have any electrical connections, those do get plugged back in. And that completes our look at and installation of the Draw-Tite class three trailer hitch receiver, part number 76025 on this 2012 Honda Odyssey.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Marvin S.

Great video. This helped me a lot. A couple of notes. The plastic underpiece of fascia secured with a 10mm screw and a phillips head screw is not on the passenger side. It is on the drivers side. The three metal trapezoid shapes that need to be pushed in, can be easily pressed in at their centers with zero paint/coating damage forming two triangles for each one. I used a piece of wooden 2x2 cut at 45 degrees on one end then hammered in the centers of each trapezoid until the center almost touched the bumper beam. Then the foam spacer can be pressed into the resulting triangles to indicate where small cut lines are needed. For the hitch and muffler clearance notches, my fascia had lines I could follow to remove the areas necessary. Thank you.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Chris R.

Thanks so much for this info! I'm going to post it on here to hopefully help out others in your same spot.

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