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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2013 Dodge Journey - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2013 Dodge Journey

Today on our 2013 Dodge Journey we're going to take a look at and then show you how to install the CURT custom fit class three 2" trailer hitch receiver, part number C13201. As you can see, our CURT custom fit hitch is going to have a nice look to it. All of our attachment hardware, all of the connections are up here out of the way where we can't see them. We're just going to have the drop bar that comes down and around, tucks back in over here on this same side. No modifications of the vehicle that are really required. As you can see, it's going to go right underneath the spare tire here so we're not going to have to worry about any kind of interference there. The end of the tube is just inside the outer edge of the bumper; it sits in about a 1/4" or so so it's not hanging out so far to where you might hit your leg or bumps might on it, and it's not tucked in so far where it really eliminates a lot of options as far as bike rack's or carriers might be concerned.

It's a fully welded construction so at any seam we're going to have a full weld that goes all the way around. It's made to accept a standard 5/8" hitch pin, and as you can see here on both sides we've got the plates for our safety chain connections. The hitch has a 4,000 pound gross trailer weight rating and a 400 pound maximum tongue weight rating. You will want to refer to your owner's manual. Check out the weight rating for the Journey. Whichever's the lowest of those are the one you'll want to go off of.

From the center of the hitch pinhole to the outer edge of our bumper we're looking at about 3". From the ground to the inside edge of our receiver tube at the top we've got just over 13". Now for installing the hitch today we're going to use a couple simple household kind of things. We're going to use a pry bar. We've got a torque wrench. We're going to use a ratchet whether it's an electric or a standard hand ratchet.

We'll do a 6" socket. You're going to need a 3/4" deep or short well. It doesn't really matter there. Tape is optional and also a little bit of spray lubricant would be optional. Our first step in installing our hitch is going to be to remove the three isolators that hold up each side of our exhausts here in the rear. As you can see here on the passenger side, we're also going to have a small clip-on ground wire.

For that we're just going to slide it right off there. We'll spray each of the isolators here with a little bit of spray lube. It's going to help us get them off a little bit. Then using a pry bar or another device we're going to push those isolators off the hangers there. Now before we fully remove both sides we're going to take a strap, piece of rope, whatever you've got, and we'll just go side to side, and we just want to support this so we're not putting unnecessary pressure on the front half of the system. Now you'll see it will just come down. We can take a little slack in our strap to allow it to come down just a little bit more for us. Now we'll have an attachment point located here, here, and also one slightly larger located right here on the back side. For the two here in the front we'll be using our smaller spacer blocks as we put them in. For the one there in the rear we'll be using the larger spacer block as we put it in. The same location over on our driver side. As you can see, we've put our small block on our wire. We've attached the carriage bolt onto the end of that and now we're just going to feed this up and in. As we do, we'll look for our wire. As you can see there, popped out for us appropriately. Now we'll just pull our hardware up and in through the rear of the bumper here. Now we'll just easily pull on that cause we want our carriage bolt to line up with our spacer block. Just rotate it. Now you can see it's going to hang out nicely for us. Then we'll just repeat that step for the one just in front of it there. Now we can do the one in the back that uses that large spacer. Now these are all using the 1/2" by 1-1/2" carriage bolts. The only difference is that that larger spacer is going to come into play here. This is going to go in from the end of the bumper beam. Pull it out our hole up there and then we just feed our two parts in. The three on this side in place, let's go over to the driver side and repeat the same process for the other three fasteners we need. With all of our hardware in place, before we raise our hitch up into position we'll want to put the two small spacer blocks on. The thicker edge of it will go towards the rear of the vehicle or towards the opening of the hitch. The thinner portion will go towards the front. As you can see, we're just using a piece of tape to hold that in place as we raise it up into position. Now raising the hitch up into position it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you. Then we'll just raise it up and allow each of those bolts to come down through our hitch. Then you can see we're just going to put our flange nuts on. They're going on our 1/2" by 1-1/2" carriage bolts. Now we'll go over to the driver side and repeat that same process. Now we'll use our wrench and we'll tighten each one of our fasteners down. Then we're going to go back through and we'll torque down each of our fasteners, just referring to your instruction manual to give you your appropriate torque specification. Just go by that. Now with our hitch torqued down we'll get our exhaust hangers back in place. Remember we took down six of them so we want to replace all six. We'll also be sure to reattach our clip that connects the ground wire to our exhaust. With our exhaust back in place we're just going to remove our support strap. That's all that we got to it. That will complete it for our look at CURT custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number C13201, on our 2013 Dodge Journey. .

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