bing tracking image Trailer Hitch Installation - 2014 Dodge Journey

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How to Install the Trailer Hitch on a 2014 Dodge Journey

Speaker 1: Today on our 2013 Dodge Journey, we're going to be installing the's Class III 2 inch trailer hitch receiver, part number e98845. This is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. As you can see, you will be able to see the cross tube and the receiver tube sticking off the back here. It's a Class III 2" by 2" hitch receiver, so it's going to be great for all of your needs. From bike racks, to cargo carriers, to hauling trailers, it's going to handle everything.I use the 5/8" hitch pin and clip. That one doesn't come included with this hitch, but you can pick one up here at

It features plate-style safety chain loops, and has a decent size opening that should accommodate most size safety chains. It features a 400 pound tongue weight. That's the force going down on top of the receiver, and a 4,000 pound gross towing capacity. That's how much weight it can pull behind it.The hitch is also rated to be used with a weight distribution system. However, the tongue weight and gross trailer weight is going to stay the same.

You do want to verify in your vehicle's owners manual that you're not going to exceed any of its towing capacities. Now I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube, it measures about 13 1/2". This is important when determining if you need a drop, rise, or raised shank in any of your accessories.From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper, it measures about 4". This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper.

We'll begin our installation underneath our vehicle. We'll have to lower our exhaust, but before we do that, we're going to place the strap on, so that way we don't have to worry about it falling down too far.We'll now need to determine the exhaust hangers on each side. You'll find two here on your passenger side. We're going to spray those down with some silicone lubricant to make them easier to take off. There's one on the other side of the frame rail here as well.

Then you can just use a pry bar, pry those off. Once you've got both off on your passenger side, you'll do both on the driver's side. Now on the other side of your muffler towards the front of the vehicle, you'll find another hanger on each side. We'll remove this one as well. Then you can lower down your exhaust.We'll now use the coiled fish wire that comes in our kit to route our carriage bolts through the frame. We're going to start with the rear most hole in our frame here. We're going to feed it down towards the square opening here. I like to stick my finger in there to try and find it, because it can be a little tricky sometimes. Once you've got it pulled through, you'll slide on one of the smaller spacers that comes with your kit, and then thread on one of the carriage bolts. Poke both of those up into the frame. Use your fish wire to pull it back down.Due to the limited amount of fish wires you get in your kit, you are going to have to take this fish wire back off so you can reuse it for the next hole. We're going to do the same procedure we just did in the hole that's slightly towards the front of the vehicle from the hole we just did. Now, if you go further towards the rear of the vehicle, you'll have your cross beam here. We're going to use the hole that's just to the outside of your frame on that cross beam. Slide our fish wire through that hole towards the outside. There's an opening on the end of the beam.Then we're now going to use the large spacer that comes with our kit. Slide it on, and then thread on the carriage bolt. Now push that spacer in the frame followed by your carriage bolt, and pull those down. We're then going to perform the exact same steps to install the three carriage bolts in the same position on the opposite side. On your driver's side, you may have an electrical connector that runs down the frame here. In order to make it easier to get your hitch into place without pinching it, it's not a bad idea to disconnect it from the connector.At the back here, you'll have a push pin that goes in the frame. We're going to use a trim panel removal tool to just pop that out, and then our electrical connector here is disconnected by pulling outward on the tab. I'm just pulling it out. We can now move this easily aside. Make sure we don't crush it when we're putting our hitch up. We'll now take the wedge spacers that come in our kit. We're going to put the larger wedge towards the receiver side, and we're going to use some clear tape just to help hold this in position, because it's going to have to go between the hitch and the frame when we lift it up.Rather than fumble with it in the air, we'll just tape it down, and then you can cut a slit in the tape to make it easy to get your bolts to go through. We'll do that on the other side as well. We'll now lift our hitch into position. I left the coiled wire, as two come in the kit, on the rear most bolts because those are the ones that go through our wedge spaces with the tape, and it'd be difficult to get that lined up properly without pushing your bolts back up in the frame. We're going to pull those fish wires down through those bolt holes, and then we'll lift our hitch up into position. We need to make sure that we get our bolts to line up with our hitch so don't talk to them back up into the frame.We'll then take a nut and thread it on one of the carriage bolts. Once you've got one nut threaded on a carriage bolt on each side, the hitch will hold this up into position, make it easier to install the rest of your hardware. We'll then use the same size nuts to install it on the rest of the carriage bolts that come down. We'll do this on both sides. Now, we'll go back and tighten down all our hardware with a 19 millimeter socket. Torque all of your hardware to the specifications found in your instructions.We'll now go back and plug our electrical connector back in that we had disconnected. Now we'll put our exhaust back up. You'll just do this reverse of how we did it. I like to spray some lubricant on them to make them push on easier. Just lift it up, slide them right back on. Once all your exhaust hangers back in place, just remember to remove your strap. You're now ready to hook up your trailer and hit the road. That completes our installation of the's trailer hitch receiver on our 2014 Dodge Journey.

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