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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2014 Honda Odyssey

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2014 Honda Odyssey

Today on our 2014 Honda Odyssey we're going to take a look at and also show you how to install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Custom Fit Class III trailer hitch receiver offering the 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening. It's part number is 76025. Here's what our hitch is going to look like installed on the Odyssey. As you can see, this is a big change from what the standard Odyssey hitches look like. Typically you've got that cross tube that comes all the way across. It doesn't look all that great because you see all of that material. The new design here from Draw-Tite's going to move all that up and behind our rear fascia panel here.

Cross tube's going to be completely hidden which is very, very nice. Also, an advantage in this design is that our receiver tube opening here has gone up slightly. That gives us better ground clearance. I've got an Odyssey hitch now on my Odyssey and it's been drug here a few times. You can see some scraping. They're helping to move that up a little bit, give it some better ground clearance, and the hitch pin hole, they've also moved back about an inch.

That's going to help when we get those ball mount situations. When I try to put a ball mount in I need a rise to come up. It always wants to make contact here on the back of the vehicle, so I think that inch is going to give us the room we need so we won't have to worry about contact, so big benefits with the hitch. It also looks much nicer, much more compact here. We've got our 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening.

That's been finished off with a rounded style reinforcement collar there. This being a class III hitch it's going to be very versatile. You see on each side you've got a lot of room there. There's plenty of space so anti-rattle devices, hitch pins and clips, things like that, you shouldn't have any problems holding those in place. You're going to see on this one there are 2 holes. The one closest to the front of the vehicle is the only one we're every going to use to secure any of our items.

It's 5 eighths of an inch in diameter. We want to choose class III accessories. The one located a little bit closer to the rear is for the jay pin stabilization system only. Our safety chain connection points are going to be a rounded steel stock material. There's a good amount of room there so whatever chains style that you have shouldn't be an issue getting those connected. When it comes to towing and hauling, bike racks, things like that, the hitch is going to give us a 525 pound tongue weight rating. That would be the maximum downward force that we'd want to put there at the receiver tube opening. It gives us a 35 hundred pound gross trailer weight rating. That's to tow the weight of our trailer and anything that we we're to load up on it. We also want to check out the manual on your Odyssey, see what it's tow rating is, and go off of whichever those numbers would be the lowest. A couple of measurements that are helpful in selecting your ball mount, bike rack, or hitch cargo carrier will be from the ground to the inside top edge of a receiver tube opening. We've got about 13 and a half inches, then from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of our bumper, it's going to be about 5 and half. We've got a couple small areas here on the rear fascia to trim. They're both located up underneath so it's not going to make any real visual difference to the back of the vehicle. You can do this when it's on the vehicle which I prefer. It kind of holds our fascia in place so it doesn't move around, or you can do it after you have it removed if you're more comfortable doing it that way. It's kind of up to you. We want to start by finding the center of the rear fascia, so we're going to measure the distance between these two points and find the center. Now we're going to measure out 4 and a quarter inches each way from that center line. That's going to give us our 8 and a half inch slot there, and from this bottom edge we're going to measure up 3 inches. We'll make a couple of marks there. We'll get that squared out and removed. To do this, we are using a dry erase marker. It's not a permanent marker. That's always a good recommendation just in case you have a mistake that you need to correct. You can easily wipe it away and redo it. Here you'll see the area that we intend to remove. We'll get to that in just a moment. There's one more spot over here by the exhaust pipe. It's basically going to be right inside of this recessed area. You can see this plastic cover that's here. We need to just get that trimmed right around here. Up and over and then back down this side as well. To make it a little bit easier to get up into this area we're going to drop the exhaust down by removing two rubber exhaust hangers. Got one right here in the middle. A little bit of spray lubricant on there and then a pry bar, maybe a large screwdriver, should be able to pop that off. Then we'll have one more right here. This is on the side of the tailpipe. This is that area we intend to remove. It'll be just kind of ahead of that there. You can see that'll give us just a little room to bring that down, get our tool in there so we can work. Now we'll get this trimmed out. You can of course use a razor knife and just make a few score marks each way, kind of flex it out. You could use tin snips. It's not a very thick material. What we like to use, typically, just like a high speed rotary tool here. This gives us a pretty clean line. That should do it. If we need to we can always enlarge that a little bit once we get the hitch in place, but we'll start with what they suggested and we can always expand from there. Next step, we're going to do is take care removing this panel that's going to give us access up to our connection points. A trim panel tool or a screw driver is what you'll need. You'll just need to pull that center pin out and then the outside portion will come with it. We have three of these around this back edge for this panel. While we're down here and doing this we can also remove the two right here on our fascia. We'll set those aside. On the front side of that plastic panel there's a little bolt that goes through it and holds it up to the frame. We'll need a 10 millimeter socket for that. Then if there's a mudflap installed you're going to have a little Phillips screw right up here to remove. Kind of tough to get to but once you have it loose you can usually thread it out by hand. Now we want to pull down on this front edge and then right out towards it, your panel will come out. Now we want to finish taking the mudflap off. You can see right up here there's a bolt. That one you need to use a 10 millimeter socket on. Then we've got 2 Phillips screws. We've got one here and then there should be one there. That one's missing. This one's going to be a lot like that one we just removed here on the other side. Kind of tough to get to but once you get it started you should be able to take it out by hand. We're going to do the same thing on the other side as well. Right up here where this fascia meets the side of the vehicle we're going to have one more screw there. We're going to remove that, we'll do it on both sides of course. Now we're going to open up the rear hatch area there. We see these two fasteners, one here and one here. We're going to get those removed. This is going to require a hex head bit, the 3 sixteenths. Now what we're going to do with an extra set of hands available, we're just going to gently pull out on the corner right we're we removed that upper screw here in the wheel well. As we do that, the clips should start to separate as we come around. We have a couple more clips right underneath our light there. Just want to, like we said, just gently pull out on it. Take a quick look to make sure you don't have any electrical connectors if you have any backup sensors or anything like that. Then we can just set this aside somewhere safe. That's going to give us a good look here at the back. This bumper brace is going to be the next thing we're taking off. You can see this foam pad on top. We'll just set that aside. Now on our bumper structure, each side's going to have two holes just like this. Inside there's going to be a bolt. We're going to use a 14 millimeter socket and you'll need probably at least a 4 inch extension to be able to get in there and get to it. We just want to get those backed out. We'll leave one bolt loosely started on the other side while we remove these just to give it some support so that side doesn't want to fall. Finish taking that one out and we can set that aside. We're going to have two of these spacer blocks that comes with our kit as well. If we look on the receiver hitch, these are the two holes they're going to fit in there where we took our bumper out. The one located here in the back side, we're going to place one of these spacer blocks right over the top there, then we're going to secure it also with a little tape. We're going to do that on both sides as well. You'll notice we've left the washers off of the back of the frame rail. We find on the 2014s especially, that can cause issues with the bumper cover so we're going to skip that step, we'll place our hitch right up into position. As we do this we want to align the top hole with the factory hole and replace it with our new M10 bolt. We want to use a conical tooth washer on there. The teeth of that washer should face in toward the hitch. We're just going to start that very loosely, you want to pull that washer all the way out to the end of it there. We can let our hitch rest there. Our larger M12 bolts we're going to thread up through our hitch. Again, that conical tooth washer needs to face it, through our space block and into the existing weld nuts that are here. We're going to do that on both sides. These spacer blocks, you can just slide them in afterwards if you like. Seem to be easier to do it that way than the other way. You can see on the back side of our bumper there we've got that larger hole with a little key way on the top, like a key hole there. We're going to slide that over our bolt and our conical tooth washer and then the bolts going to fit right in that slot. We're going to get that done on both sides. For snugging these down we need a 17 millimeter socket. For the ones on the underside, which we'll do next, we'll require a 19. Now we need to look in our instructions. There we're going to have the torque specifications listed. We'll want to go through now and torque each of our fasteners down appropriately. On the back side of the bumper here we've got four points that are typically going to make contact with the bumper and it's going to leave just a slight bump there. We like to tap these in to get rid of that. If you don't mind it you wouldn't have to do this step. That's going to be completely up to you, but on my van I did do it because I don't want to have those points sticking out. We'll just take our hammer, on this corner, this corner, this corner and this corner and just tap it in slightly. That should be about all we need to do. Now we can get that slid back in and it's time to get our fascia put back in place. There are a few tabs right here on the top, right in this area, line up our hole areas there, and then it's just really a matter of just pushing in and getting these clicked in all the way around that edge. Like that, pretty easy. Now we can replace our fasteners that we're inside the hatch here. Now we'll move on to getting the screws put in the top here on both sides. Now we'll put both our push pin fasteners back here underneath, one on both sides there, now we'll get our mud flap tucked back up into position here. We don't want to secure it with this rear bolt just yet because that's going to go with that under body panel. We can put that bolt that had the 10 millimeter head in here closer, another screw's going to go in down here, and you'll remember that top one didn't have a screw, but if it did you'd put it back in there. Now we'll slide our side panel back up into position here. We'll start putting our push pin fasteners back in. You may have to kind of get your hand up there and hold down on that panel to get them to go in, but they'll go. The last one will have our bolt going right up into the frame there. Now we'll get our exhaust put up. Little bit more spray lubricant's a good idea on these to help them slide on. All right, we're back together. Now our hitch will be ready for use. With our exhaust back in place that's going to complete our installation of the Draw-Tite Custom Fit Class III trailer hitch receiver, part number 76025 on our 2014 Honda Odyssey.

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