etrailer.com Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Honda Odyssey

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How to Install the etrailer.com Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Honda Odyssey


Speaker 1: Today on our 2015 Honda Odyssey, we're going to be taking a look at and I'm going to show you how to install the etrailer.com class III trailer hitch receiver, part number E98862. This is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. You can see the cross tube is visible, but it's a round tube design, so it's going to fit nicely with the contour of the vehicle. The end of the receiver tube is nice and tucked in under the bumper fascia, so we're not going to have to worry about hitting our legs or our shins on it when we're loading or unloading the vehicle. One thing I really like about this hitch is the finish. Etrailer has done a great job with it.

It's going to have a triple coated carbide black powder coat finish, so it's really going to work well in resisting rust and corrosion.This hitch is going to be a class III hitch. It's going to be 2" x 2". The hitch pin hole is going to be 5/8" in diameter. It's going to take a standard 5/8" hitch pin, which does not come with our hitch, but you can find one on our website, using part number PC3. You can see it's going to have plate style safety chain loops.

It's welded to the bottom of the receiver tube and to the bottom of the cross tube. You can see the holes are a nice size in diameter. It's going to give you plenty of room for different size books.As far as the weight capacity goes with this hitch, you're going to have a 350 pound max tongue weight, which is the downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube. You're going to have a 3500 found max trailer weight, which is the trailer plus anything that's loaded on it. You can use weight distribution with this hitch.

The tongue weight's going to go up to 500 pounds, the trailer weight's going to go up to 5000 pounds. I always recommend checking the owner's manual of the Odyssey to make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight. You want to pick the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch.As far as the installation goes with this hitch, it is a very simple installation. One thing I do recommend is make sure you clean out the weld nuts that are in the frame rails very well before trying to put your hardware in. Now let's give you a few measurements to help you when deciding on any hitch mount accessory you may need, such as a bike rack, ball mount, or cargo carrier.

From hitch pit and hole to the outermost part of the bumper, going to be about 4 1/2". From the ground to the top innermost part of the receiver tube is about 13".Now let me show you how to get this installed. The first thing we need to do is start our installation. We're going to remove this panel, it's on our driver's side behind the rear tire. You're going to have three pushpin fasteners that we need to remove. Take a flat head screwdriver or a plastic trim panel tool and make sure that the base comes out with it. We're going to take a 10 mm socket and we're going to have one bolt we need to remove. Just toward the outside of the vehicle, you'll notice a Phillips head screw and you'll also remove that. Once you have everything loose, go ahead and remove our trim panel piece. The next thing we want to do, is we need to, on our driver's side here, we're going to have two weld nuts we're going to be using. One of the holes we're going to be putting a bolt in. What we need to do is we to clean our weld nuts out.Even though this was covered, I'm going to go ahead and clean these out anyway, and you want to do this on both sides. This side again was covered, so it's probably not going to have too much in it. I'm going to clean them out anyway. I'm going to show you a trick on cleaning out the other side. Use a nylon tube brush, and some cleaner. Most of the time that will work enough to get them clean, but sometimes the tube brush is not stiff enough to get all of the stuff out of the inside. For instance, on the passenger side of the vehicle those we're not covered, so there's quite a bit of stuff inside those threads. Anyway, once we get the threads cleaned out on the one side, you take your hardware, thread it up in there, and you just want to make sure you can thread it in there by hand.On our passenger side, you can see how much stuff is up inside of those. So what I'm going to do is, I'm going to spray them just like I did on the other side, take my tube brush, and try to get out as much as I can here. For somebody's who doesn't do this kind of work all the time, you may not have a tap and die set. You can actually make your own tap to clean out your holes. You just want to make sure that the bolt is the same size bolt and same thread count. So what you're going to do with the bolt is you're going to cut a couple of grooves in it. You can use a Dremel tool with a cutting blade on it. Then we'll take this and we'll thread it up inside and it will clean our threads. You may have to run it up and down in there a couple of times to get it all cleaned out. Once it's cleaned out, you take one of your bolts from your hardware kit and you should be able to thread it in with your fingers.Next you're going to have one carriage bolt in your kit. It's going to look like this. You're going to have a spacer block and you're going to have a wire. It's a pull wire. It's going to have a spring end on it. On our driver's side, you have your two weld nuts, you're going to have an open hole. We're actually going to be pulling it through this hole. We're going to send our spacer block and our bolt right up through this hole and come out of this one. How we do that is, you take your pull wire, spring end, go through the hole you want to pull it out of. Go like that, spacer block first, push it up there, and we'll take our carriage bolt and thread it on. Lift it up in the hole and then pull it down like that. We'll go ahead and leave the wire attached for now.Next thing we're going to do is we're going to have four bolts that are going to go into the weld nuts that we cleaned out. They're going to look like this. You're going to have four chronic tooth washers. You want to make sure that the teeth are going to be facing the hitch. You want this flat part to be against the head of the bolt. Next we'll put our hitch in place. We're going to take the passenger side, we're going to guide it right up over the top of the exhaust like that. We're just going to let our exhaust hold it. Come over to our driver's side. We're going to take our pull wire, go on to the corresponding hole, which is going to be the very back hole on the driver's side, because remember we're going to have three over here. Then we'll go ahead and put in one of our bolts with our washers on it. That'll hold our hitch on that side. Now we'll go ahead and put one on our passenger side. That'll help hold our hitch up while we put our remaining hardware in.We'll remove our pull wire and we'll add a flange nut. Now if you'll notice, this moves it. Then you'll take your finger and put a pressure on the bolt or you can take a flathead screwdriver to push on it. Either way this'll help get this on a little bit easier. We'll take a 19 mm socket and tighten everything up. The last thing we need to do is to torque everything to specifications in the instructions. We're ready to go.That'll do it for the look at and installation On the etrailer.com Class III trailer hitch receiver, part number E98862 on our 2015 Honda Odyssey.


Questions and Comments about this Video

David S.

You dont say, but it seems that the panel you removed on the drivers side is not reinstalled?Did it serve so purpose?thanks 71542

Reply from Chris R.

If that driver's side trim panel is present on your Odyssey (it's not on all models) you can either trim the piece so it can be re-installed after the hitch is in place or simply leave it off completely. We decided to just leave it off. The hitch essentially takes its place in terms of the protection it provided so it's not a necessary component. 58558

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