bing tracking image Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install the Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon

Speaker 1: Today on our 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the etrailer class 3 customer fit trailer hitch receiver, Part Number E98847.So here's what our hitch is gonna look like once we have it installed in our Outback. You can see that the cross tube is gonna be visible, and it's gonna sit right below the bumper. But it is gonna have that nice carbide flat black finish to it, so it's gonna blend in with the plastic on the bottom of our bumper really nice. Now it is gonna be a class 3 hitch, which means it's gonna give us that 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening and have a really wide variety of accessories, whether we're looking for a ball mount to tow a trailer or a bike rack or even a cargo carrier.Now the way we're gonna mount any of those accessories inaudible 00:00:44 the hitch pin hole here on the side, and it is gonna accept a standard 5/8 pinning clip. Although they're not included in the kit, you can pick them up here at along with locks to keep your accessories safe.Now as far as the safety chain connection points go, it's gonna be a plate style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube and as you can see, we're not gonna have too much trouble getting most size hooks on or off. We're gonna have plenty of room and not have to worry about any kind of interference.For the weight capacity our hitch is gonna have a 600 lb.

tongue weight, which will be the maximum downward force at the receiver tube along with a 4,000 lb. gross trailer weighting, which is the amount it can pull including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. Now with those numbers in mind, you always wanna double check your Outback's owner's manual, and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.I'd like to give you a few measurements, and that's gonna help you whenever you're looking at accessories for your hitch, such as a ball mount, a bike rack, or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper be right about 2-3/4". That measurement's gonna come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have adequate clearance so you don't make contact with the rear bumper.On the ground, the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is right about 15-3/4".

That measurement's not only gonna come in handy when you're looking for a ball mount to match up to rise or drops of your trailer, but also at that height, I would recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a raised shank. That way we have a little bit more ground now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, I do wanna mention that we already ran our 4 pull wiring, and we actually ran it out through our grommet at the bottom of the trunk. It's gonna be a lot easier to see and get to before we get the hitch in place. So this would be a good way to have your wiring right by your hitch once we have it in place. But to get our hitch in place, we are gonna have to lower our exhaust down.

So you wanna make sure that you get a strap, and you support it so it doesn't hang down too far. So let's just find a spot on our frame, hook our strap up, and then we're gonna start working on loosening and removing the rubber isolators. So we're gonna have a rubber isolator towards the middle of our Subaru at the back of the muffler, and if we move to the outside or we go towards the front of the vehicle, we'll have another rubber isolator.I'm gonna take a little bit of spray lubricant, I'm gonna spray it on the isolator and the rubber hanger, and then your main goal here is just to take a pry bar or whatever you have and you're gonna wanna slide that rubber isolator off. So that once we get them both off, we'll be able to move it down.Now if removing these two doesn't give you enough slack, cause we are gonna have to remove that heat shield above it, we can actually move farther back in the exhaust. Right about where the axle is we'll have another isolator, and we can remove that one as well.

Just make sure you do have that support strap or something supporting the exhaust so it doesn't come down too far.Now with our exhaust down, we can loosen up that strap so we have more room to work with, but it's still gonna be supported. So then our heat shield is gonna be above our muffler. It's gonna be held in place by four bolts. We're gonna wanna pull those out. So we'll grab a 10 millimeter socket, we can take them out. I'm gonna pull that heat shield out and set it aside for right now.Now on each side of the frame towards the very back of the bumper and then right before we get to the sub frame and axle, we're gonna have these plastic rubber plugs in the frame. So we wanna take a flathead screwdriver. We're just gonna pop them out. So we're gonna take both the plugs out on the front and rear on both sides. Now the hole at the bottom of the frame towards the front of our vehicle is gonna act as our access point to get the rest of our hardware in place.We're gonna need to enlarge this hole so that we can fit our spacer block and our carriage bolt inside. Now obviously, it's not big enough right now. So there's a couple different ways you can do this. You can either use a file, a rotary tool and cut it out, or you can use a stud drill bit like I'm going to, and we're just gonna enlarge that hole and periodically check cause we only want it to get big enough to where we can get our spacer block and carriage bolt inside. Looks like we still have a little bit more drilling to do, but once we have this side done, we're gonna go and repeat that on the other side of the frame as well.So now that we have that hole enlarged, you can see our spacer block fits as well as our carriage bolt. Now it's never a good idea to leave exposed metal on the bottom of your vehicle, so I'm gonna take a little bit of spray paint and spray it around, hopefully preventing any kind of rust or corrosion from building up. And we'll do that for the other side as well.So we're gonna get ready to fishwire our hardware in place. We're gonna start with the hole that's towards the very back of the bumper. We're gonna take our pull wire, and I'm gonna put a small bend in it. I'm gonna feed the coil bend into the frame. I'm gonna be going towards the access hole that we just enlarged. Now you wanna be careful if you do have to reach in cause you don't wanna cut yourself. Sometimes it helps if you just reach in so you can feel the end of the wire and help guide it out. And once we have the end of the coiled wire out, you wanna make sure that the tail on the other end stays on the outside of the frame.So I'll go ahead and put a small bend in there so it won't go in. Then I'll take one of our spacer blocks, feed it over the coil under our wire and push it up in the frame. And we'll take our carriage bolt and thread it onto the end of the coiled wire. You can feed that into the frame as well. I'm gonna pull on our pull wire til the bolt drops down. So right now we're gonna go ahead and leave our pull wire attached so we don't have to worry about the bolt going back inside. And we'll repeat that entire process for the other side as well.Now with an extra set of hands, we're gonna lift our hitch up. We're gonna take our pull wire. We're gonna feed it from the top of our hitch going down through those holes and lift our hitch up so that the bolt's gonna drop down through our hitch. And when we remove our pull wire, you wanna make sure that you unthread it and you don't just rip it off because we are gonna have to use each side again to put one last bolt in.So we'll carefully remove our pull wire. Then we'll take a flange nut. We're gonna loosely secure it, putting one on each side. So now we'll notice that we are gonna have one more attachment point back here, but it's gonna go into the solid section of our frame. So I'm gonna take 1/2" drill bit and coming in from the bottom going through the hitch, I'm gonna mark my frame just by using the drill a little bit, and that'll give me a nice center point. I can come back with a smaller bit and make a pilot hole. So now that the pilot hole's drilled, I'm gonna come back with a 1/2" drill bit. I'm gonna enlarge that hole to a full 1/2". Now since the bolt's gonna be the same size as the 1/2" drill bit we're using, it's not a bad idea to just kind of move the drill bit around a little bit to wall out the hole just enough so there's room for the bolt to move. We can always double check by taking our bolt and making sure that it will go through the hole.We're gonna use that same method. We gonna take our pull wire, feed it in through our mounting location and go back towards our access point. Have the coiled end come down. We'll put our spacer block over the end and then thread our carriage bolt in place. Make sure it comes down and remove the pull wire, and attach another one of the flange nuts. I wanna repeat this for the other side as well.I'm gonna come back with a 3/4" socket, and I'm gonna snug up all my hardware. Now we're gonna come back with a torque wrench and a 3/4" socket, and we're gonna torque all the hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. You wanna make sure to repeat that for all of your remaining hardware.Now our heat shield is gonna have to be trimmed in order to get it installed because our hitch is taking up some of the space. So if we come to the outer edge here where we have our two mounting points, right in front of one of them we're gonna have that little curve right here. If we just make a line and then come straight across, we're gonna be cutting out this section right here. So we're gonna be losing that one mounting point. Now cutting this is gonna be fairly easy if you have a pair of aviation snips cause this is really thin sheet metal. So we just cut that section out. And then any other minor trimming that we may need to do, we can always do, but we'll go ahead and test fit it to make sure that it lines up properly.We're gonna loosely put our heat shield in place. Take those 10 millimeter bolts, at least loosely by hand get a few in so it'll hold itself up. Let's keep in mind we did lose that one mounting location, so we're only gonna be putting three back in. As you can see, we're gonna have plenty of room where it's not gonna interfere with our hitch.We'll come back with that 10 millimeter socket and snug up those bolts. So we can put our exhaust back in place now. But I'm gonna take a little bit of spray lubricant, spray it on the rubber isolators. Way it's a little bit easier to get them in place. We just lift our exhaust up, slide the rubber isolator back onto the hanger. Make sure to get the one by the axle as well. Once we have all those in place, we can remove the support strap from earlier.That'll finish up your look at the etrailer class 3 custom fit trailer hitch receiver Part Number E98847 on our 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon.

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