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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 BMW X5 - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2016 BMW X5


Today on our 2016 BMW X5, we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Draw-Tite Class 3 Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver. This offers a 2-inch by 2-inch opening. It's part number is 75600. Here's what our hitch is going to look like installed on the vehicle. It's going to give us a really nice, clean look. Our cross tube is completely hidden.

We're just basically going to have our receiver tube that's hanging down, also our safety chain connection points you can see under here. These are going to be a rolled, steel style. We've got our 2-inch by 2-inch receiver tube opening, kind of has a rounded end on it there. It's going to be just inside the back of the bumper, so I don't think we really have to worry about hitting our feet on it or hitting our legs on it, or anything when we walk by. You'll see we've got our double pin hole setup here. Now, the larger one closer to the front of the vehicle, this is going to be for securing any of our items, whether we're using a pin and clip, anti-rattle device, locking hitch pin.

It looks like they're all going to fit in here without any interference. Our rear hole here, this isn't for securing any items other than using the J-pin stabilization system, if you decide to go that route. As far as tow ratings go, we're going to have a 600-pound towing weight capacity. That's going to be the maximum downward force we can put on our receiver tube opening and it's going to offer us a 6000 pound gross trailer weight rating. It's going to be the total weight of our trailer and then anything that we've got loaded on it.

Of course, we do need to look into the owner's manual of the X5 to see what it's tow rating is and we'll just go off of whichever of those are the lowest. A couple of measurements that you're going to find helpful in selecting your ball mount, bike rack, or hitch cargo carrier. From the ground to the inside top edge of our receiver tube opening, we've got about 13 1/2 inches. Then from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of our bumper, it's about 2 1/4. Then to begin our installation, we've got three rivets right here in our wheel well, and we need to go ahead and drill those out on the passenger's side and we'll do the same thing for the driver's side. We want to gently pull out on our wheel well molding here.

You can kind of see the three locking tabs there that you'll want to release, and if we'll look just below that top one, we can see that fascia bolt that we'll need to remove. We'll go to the driver's side and do the same thing there. We'll have the six fascia screws on the under side to take out. We'll have one here, just behind the wheel well and then there's going to be two on the very back. They'll be in the exact same location on our passenger's side. Next up is going to be to remove the reflector that we've got on each side here in the back. See, right up here in the back side of the bumper, there's a little metal clip. We need to push that side out and it should slide on out. You can see that little clip right here. There's also a tab here, but usually when that one's removed that one will come right out. If we look behind our reflector, we're going to see a small screw. We'll have one on each side that we'll remove. Now it's time to open up the back hatch here. We want to pull this panel out, just kind of pull out, pull it over, and if we look behind this insulation material here, we're going to have a plug and two nuts that are on studs that stick out. That's what's holding the tail light in place. Let's go ahead and remove those. You can see our long, black plug here. Right in the center, you want to press in and then just wiggle it, you'll be able to pull it out. Then we want to take the two nuts off. Then we want to just pull out loosely right here on this edge, you can get your finger on there. We'll be able to slide that right back and off. Pretty straightforward, pretty simple. The reason we removed those though was so we can then remove this screw that's right here. With those removed on each side, I'm going to use just a cam buckle strap and I want to hold my door up at about a 45-degree angle. Hook it like that. Then we'll get an extra set of hands and start working from the outside to the inside, and try to remove this lower fascia. As we do, we want to be sure we disconnect any electrical connections that exist on the back so we don't pull them apart. If any of your tabs fight you along the way, you can just use a screwdriver and press down on that center section, and that'll release them for you. If you do have a backup sensor, you'll separate this by squeezing the top and bottom of the plug together. Then to separate this plug, we need to press the tab that's on the bottom and also on the top. We'll want to loosen the black caps that over the upper bolts. This is going to be just below the bottom portion of the gate. Just so we don't cause any issues here, what we're going to do, we've got a sensor here on the back, I'm going to unplug it and then there's just a couple little clips here that hold this wire up. We're going to unclip it all the way across and I just want to remove this fastener that holds it into the end of this rear impact bar. We're going to be pulling that down just to put our hitch up behind it, we don't want to cause any damage. There we go, that'll give us the room we need. Now we're just going to remove the four nuts on each side here. We'll leave one on there, just thread it a little bit, that way it'll give us support while we remove our other side. All right, now we'll just pull straight out on it and then lower it straight down. Now we'll raise our hitch into position and all we have to do is rest it up on those bolts. All right, now we'll place our impact bar back on, then we'll start putting our nuts back in position. We'll use the two tabs here to make sure that we've got our hitch centered on our vehicle. Then we're ready to snug those fasteners down, then torque them down to the specifications that we find in our instructions. We're going to do the same thing over here on the passenger side. At this point, you'll want to test fit your fascia and see if it needs to be trimmed or not. We want to mark the center of our fascia and from there we need to measure out four inches each way and also two inches up. Then that square, that's the area that we want to remove. We'll just want to take our utility knife and just score this a few times. If we take our time, it'll eventually work through. All right, now before we put our fascia on, let's run our sensor wire back over to its plugin. All right, now we need to start fitting our fascia back into place. Remember, we're going to reconnect anything that we disconnected. We want to kind of pull out on our trim panel there to allow it to fit back in behind it. Now we can start going around and just putting our fasteners back in where we took them out of. Then we can do the three on the other side and also the six on the bottom. With all of our hardware tightened down, we'll get our reflectors back in, get those lined up and then push them until you hear that snap. Now we can slide our tail light housings back into place. Re-secure them with the two nuts. Over here, we can just plug our lights back in. Cover back in and also replaced our panel. Now it's time to snap our wheel well trim back into place there. This mat or this fender lining should go behind there so if it's popped out, just push it back around. Then in each of our hole locations, we're going to place in the plastic rivet, then we'll grab our rivet setting tool and just like that, it'll hold it nice and secure. With our fascia back in place, that's going to complete today's installation of the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Custom Fit Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 75600 on our 2016 BMW X5.


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