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TorkLift SuperHitch Original Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install a TorkLift SuperHitch Original Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


Today, on our 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we're going to be installing Torklift's SuperHitch Original trailer hitch receiver, and this is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. It's going to be a class five, dual 2" x 2" hitch receiver. This hitch is great if you want to haul two accessories. Let's say you want to tow a trailer in one and put a bike rack in the other.But on our truck here, it's got a camper on the back, so we're going to be using it for a long hitch extender so we can pull a trailer behind our camper and still have the gross towing capacity and tongue weight we need to properly tow it. For that, we're going to be using the Torklift SuperTruss, part number TLE1528. It uses a 5/8" hitch pin and clip; two do come included with it, so they have one for each receiver.It features a 1,700 pound tongue weight, and that's the force going down on top of the receiver, and a 17,000 pound gross towing capacity.

That's how much it can pull behind it. When using a weight distribution system, that increases the tongue weight to 2,000 pounds and the gross towing capacity to 20,000 pounds. You do want to verify in your vehicle's owner's manual that you don't exceed any of its towing capacities.Now I've got two measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories. From the ground to the top inside edge of the bottom receiver tube measures about 17 1/2", and to the top tube it measures about 20 3/4". From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper, it sticks out past the bumper about a 1/2".

This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the buffer.We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle by lowering down our spare tire. I've already got mine removed. Next, we'll need to take out any factory hitch that may be pre-installed on your vehicle. There's three bolts located on the bottom of our factory hitch. We'll remove the three bolts located here with a 21 millimeter socket.

You may need a wrench on the other side.Keep in mind that everything we're going to be doing on this side, we're going to be doing the same on the other side as well. There's two bolts located on the outside of the frame rail to take out as well. This'll use the same 21 millimeter socket. And before you move onto the other side, you want to make sure you have one bolt that's just hand-threaded in a few turns to keep your hitch from falling down when you take off the other side.And lastly, on the backside of our hitch here, we're going to have two bolts we'll need to remove with a 13 millimeter wrench or socket.Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to lower our hitch down. So if you had a nut or bolt in there that was a little hand-tight, just supporting it, take that off and then gently drop it down and set it aside.Now that the hitch is removed, the bolts that we took out of the side of the frame we're going to be reinstalling, as these hold our bumper in place so they must be reinstalled.Up through the hole at the rear-most part of the frame there is a bolt up in the bed that we'll need to remove with an 18 millimeter socket.

We'll do that on the other side as well.We'll now get our side plates into position. The L-portion of the brackets should be facing on the outside of the truck. We're going to line that up with the holes in the bottom of our frame and we're going to use the M14 bolt that come in the kit. And that's going to thread back into our factory-weld nut located here just to the rear of the spring perch. And this is just going to hand-tighten up there just to hold this in place for us. We'll do this on the other side as well.We'll now take the longest bolt in the kit; we're going to slide the 1" x 2" spacer on it.We're going to slide that up through the rear-most hole. You don't want to go in very far because on top of that, on the inside of the frame, we're going to be placing one of the 2" x 2" spacers and two flat washers. The spacer will go first, followed by the flat washers. After that, we're going to place the pipe that comes in the kit over the bolts and this'll prevent us from bending or crushing the frame when we tighten everything down.And then on the top of the pipe we're going to have another 2" x 2" spacer and then it'll thread into the weld nut that was already in the frame.Now we'll take the medium-sized bolts that come in the kit. We're going to slide them through the 1" x 2" spacers. We're going to slide those down through both holes here on each side. On the bottom side of each bolt, we're going to place another spacer followed by a lock washer and a nut. We're going to repeat that for each of the bolts that we dropped out.This is the bracket that comes with your hitch. Our customer has a camper on the back of his, so we're going to need to install camper tie-downs that will work with this hitch to secure that camper. These'll install in the same location as the brackets that come with the hitch. You can see how similar they are, there and there. Does have one extra bolt that you'll need to add if you're going to be putting these camper tie-downs on your hitch in place of these brackets.The hardware is the same regardless of which bracket you're installing. If you are putting the camper tie-down on, you do have one additional bolt that goes in the spring perch, so you have two instead of just the one.We're going to go ahead and feed that hardware in now. We're going to start with the 7/16" bolts, which is the center bolts, a star washer followed by a 1" x 2" spacer. We're going to take our fish wire, we're going to start with the outside hole. Now if you we're doing the other ones, you won't be using the outside hole, but since we're putting the camper tie-downs on, we're starting there. We're going to thread our bolt onto our fish wire and then we're going to put it all down on the frame as one assembly, and then pull it down through the hole. We're going to repeat this for the rear hole and both holes located on the other side.We'll now put our bracket in place, and we want to make sure we get these bolts in as well. That will slide through there. These are the larger 1/2" bolts and we're going to put a flat washer on those before we slide them through. On each of your bolts, you're going to place on the appropriate-sized flat washer, lock washer, and nut. Once you get one started, it'll hold the bracket up, making it easier to install the rest of your hardware. And then we'll repeat this same process on the other side.Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to lift our center section into place. We're going to take one of the bolts, slide them from the inside out, place a lock washer on it, followed by a nut. Once you get one on each side, it'll hold it up, making it easier to install the rest of the hardware.Lastly, we're going to take our brace that supports our bumper. We're going to set it in place. We're going to use the silver hardware, place on a flat washer, slide it through the brace and the center section of the hitch. Now on the other side, place a flat washer, lock washer, and nut. And then we'll repeat that for the three remaining holes.We can now go back and tighten down all of our hardware.We can now go back and torque all of our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions.And that completes our installation of Torklift's SuperHitch Original trailer hitch receiver on our 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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