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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Ford Edge - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Ford Edge

Today on our 2016 Ford Edge we're going to be taking a look at the and installing the Draw-Tite class three Max-Frame trailer hitch receiver, part number 75234. Here's what this hitch is going to look like once it's installed on the vehicle. One of the really nice features about this hitch is that if you have an Edge that has the feature of being able to wave your foot underneath the rear of the vehicle, it's still going to work with that. This particular one does not have that. This hitch is going to help maintain a nice clean look on the vehicle because all you're really going to see is the receiver tube and the safety chain connection points. Features the 2" by 2" receiver tube opening, this nice welded-on reinforcement collar. The safety chain connection points that are underneath it here, they do come down a little bit, but that's also going to make it really easy to make your connections with any safety chains that you may want to hook up there.

This hitch features the 5/8 standard hitch pinhole that's going to be good for securing all your class three accessories. It's also going to have this smaller 1/2" hole, which is good for use with a j-pin stabilization system, which that helps to eliminate a little bit of the shake and play of the shank inside the receiver tube. This hitch is going to feature a 675 pound tongue weight rating, which is the total force down on the inside of the receiver tube. It also features a 4,500 pound gross trailer weight, which is the weight of the trailer and anything that you may have on it. This hitch is rated for use with weight distribution.

The weight ratings are going to be the same as without weight distribution. What I like most about this hitch is how well hidden it is, because you can't see the crosstube so it helps to maintain a nice clean look on the vehicle. Now I'll give you some measurements to help assist you with your selection of hitch-mounted accessories such as ball mounts, bike racks, or cargo carriers. The distance from the center of the hitch pinhole to the outermost part of the rear bumper is about 4-3/4". The distance from the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening to the ground is about 12-1/4". Now let's show you how to install this hitch. Underneath the rear of the vehicle the first thing we'll need to do to begin our installation is we're going to have these plastic covers that's on both sides underneath.

We're going to need to remove those. We've got two 10mm flange nuts that we'll need to remove up at the frame rail. Out here towards the front we're going to have two 5.5mm screws. Then we'll take our shield out from underneath and then do the same thing for the other side. Now we'll need to remove this plastic cover that has this heat shield on it. We'll need to remove the six 5.5mm screws that are here along the back edge.

Then there's a 10mm flange nut directly at the center. Once we've got those off, we can take the shield and pull it down out of the way. Next thing, we'll need to lower our exhaust down so that we've got a little bit more room to work. We'll want to be sure to put up a support strap to help support the exhaust, so when we let it down it can't hang too low and possibly damage one of the components. Now we'll need to remove the exhaust from inside this rubber isolator at the hanger. We'll put a little bit of spray lubricant on there to help ease the removal. You can use a pry bar or a pair of channel lock pliers if you don't have an exhaust hanger tool. You can just pry that right off the end there. Then we'll do the same thing for the hanger on the other side of the muffler. Then once we've got both sides loose we can carefully let our exhaust hang down. In order for our hitch to go all the way up into place, this stud that's right here in the center, we're going to need to cut that off because that's where the crosstube is going to butt up to, is right up under here. That stud's going to get in the way, so you can use a cutoff tool or a Dremel with a cutoff wheel on it in order to cut that. Now we'll look at our attachment points. We're going to have this round hole right here, and then this other one that's forward from it. Then we'll also be using the two that are up on the side of the frame rail. They're going to be in the same locations on both sides. Now what I'll do is I'll take one of my fish wires and I'll feed it through the rearmost hole that's in the bottom of my frame rail. I'll feed the coiled end up towards the access hole that's up here. Then I'll take one of my square-holed spacer blocks and feed it over the end of that fish wire. Then I'll thread in one of my 7/16 carriage bolts. Now I'll feed those into the frame starting with the block. Then I'll pull those through into position. Then I'll leave that fish wire on there right now. Now I'll do that same thing for the forward attachment point on the underside of the frame rail. Now for the rearmost attachment point on the side of the frame rail I'll do that same thing. Then I'll pull this one into the frame. I'll pull it to the point where it's ready to come through, but then I'll leave that just back into the frame because the hitch is going to slide up against the outside of the frame rail, so I'll need to pull that carriage bolt through once our hitch is in place. I'll do that same thing for that one. Then I'll repeat that process for the other side. Now it's a good idea to grab an extra set of hands to help put the hitch up into place. You'll want to put all your fish wires through the corresponding holes in the hitch. As you put it up into place you'll want to be sure not to push any of the hardware back up into the frame rail. Then once you've got it up into place on one of them, going to install conical tooth washer with teeth facing up towards the hitch, then a 7/16 hex nut. With one started on each side you'll be able to go through and begin starting the rest of your hardware. Once the holes are lined up on the sides of the frame rail, you'll need to pull those carriage bolts back through. Now we'll make sure our hitch is centered and pulled all the way towards the rear of the vehicle. Then we can begin tightening up our hardware using an 11/16 socket. After we've tightened them we'll go back and use a torque wrench to make sure that they're tightened to the specification listed in the instructions. Now we'll reinstall our exhaust. Be sure to remove that support strap. Then we can reinstall our plastic underbody panels. That's going to complete our look at and installation of the Draw-Tite Max-Frame class three trailer hitch receiver, part number 75234, on our 2016 Ford Edge.

Brandon E.


What about the plastic panel with heat shield?Does that not get put back on?!?

Etrailer Expert

Rachael H.


The plastic panel with the heat shield may not be re-installed. Looking at the piece that is removed, and the stud that is removed, the plastic piece is likely held in place by the stud, and the end attachment points. Since the stud needs to be removed for the hitch to install it would be very difficult to get the plastic piece re-installed and the hitch in place. I have also included a link to the installation instructions for your reference.

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