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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Lincoln MKX - Draw-TIte

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Lincoln MKX

Today on our 2016 Lincoln MKX, we're going to take a look and also show you how to install the draw tight max frame, custom fit class 3 trailer hitch receiver. Offering the 2 inch by 2 inch opening, it's part number is 75234. Here's a great look at our hitch installed on our vehicle. As you can see, it offers a really nice clean look. We're completely hidden behind our rear fascia here with our cross tin. We've got our 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening.

I like the new design that they are coming out here with our safety chain connection points. They just drop down, give us a nice, large opening. We're going to have the rounded collar here around the receiver tube opening. It's going to give us some additional support. Then you will see there are 2 holes in the side of the hitch. Now the hole closest to the front of the vehicle is the one that we want to use for securing all of our items.

It's 5/8 of an inch in diameter. You can see we got plenty of room on each side, so what ever class 3 rated accessory you choose, should go on here without issue. One of those accessories is J-pin stabilization system and it's going to be the one item available that we'll use in this second hole. When it comes to towing and hauling, the hitch has a nice tongue weight rating at 675 pounds, that's the maximum downward force that we can put here at our receiver tube opening. It offers us a 4,500 pound gross trailer weight rating. It's going to be the total of your trailer and anything that you load up on it.

If we go into a weight distribution set up, both ratings are going to stay the same, 675 and 4,500. Now of course, you need to check out the owners manual on the MKX, see what it's rated for and go off of which ever of those numbers are the lowest. A couple of measurements that are going to be helpful in selecting your ball mounts, bike racks or hitch cargo carriers, will be from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, we've got about 12 1/4 inches. Then from the center of our hitch pinhole to the outer most edge of our bumper, it's about 5 1/4. To begin our installation here, we need to remove our plastic panels on both sides. We're going to use a 7/32 for the small screws. Then if we come inside and look up on our frame rail, here and here we'll need to remove those and that's a 10 millimeter.

We're going to need to come right here into our wheel well, you see we're going to have a push pin fastener right down here on the bottom. Get that pulled out of there and then you should just be able to rotate that panel and pull it down and out of the way. If you look underneath, we're going to have a small connector here. We're going to push in the tab located right here in the front. It will allow us to separate that. Then on each of our wheel wells there's going to be 3 more push pin fasteners that we will pull out. We got 1, 2 and 3. Now we will continue across the rear here, we're going to have 6 more bolts here or screws that we'll take out with a 7/32. Then we will need to look right up underneath this ledge, you can see we got 2 rivets here. Right up in here there's going to be a small screw that we will have to use a T-20 torque pin on. If we come a little bit further over, there will be another one right here. We'll go take those other 2 out on the other side as well. Now you're seeing a little bit higher on our wheel well here, 3 more push pin fasteners, let's get those out of the way. These are going to be on both sides as well. Now once those are removed, we want to gently pull out on this panel right here. Once we have it out far enough, we'll be able to see right in behind there, another little T-20 torque screw. We'll head over to the other side and do the same thing there. Now if we start at the top corner here on the edge, we'll be able to pop the clips out. We just slowly want to work our way around. Now we're going to use a strap to support our exhaust from underneath. Then we can lower it down out of the way and give us some room to work. Now I want to use a little bit of spray lubricant just to help it slide off easier and then usually if we pull from the back side of it, it'll pop off there. Now you can see the same thing done on the other side here, we'll able to bring this down out of the way, giving us room to get our hitch into position. In this rear fascia panel, we'll remove the 10 millimeter bolt here in the middle of this fascia holder. It will allow us to get it down and out of the way. Our attachment points are gonna be the 2 round holes that we have here in the bottom of the frame and the 2 slightly oblong holes that we have here on the outside. Now we want to use a fish wire to get our bolts in the right position here. Just bring it right out through the rear of the bumper and slide down one of our spacer blocks and we'll also put on one of our carriage bolts there. Take it down just like that and we'll do that for all 3 locations now. As we get the ones in the side position, we then just want to let those hang right back down in the frame so we have room to get our hitch up. Now with an extra set of hands, we want to get our hitch up into position. We're going to use the pole wires as guides for our bolts. We'll place on one of our conical tooth washers, we want those teeth to face up towards the hitch and then we'll thread them over our hedge bolts and that should really help hold it into place while we get the rest of our hardware through. Now in some models, there's going to be a small stud located right here in the center of the rear of the vehicle. You'll see what it's doing as we try to raise the hitch, it wants to make contact with it, so what we need to do is take our die grinder and get that trimmed off. See, now our hitch is going to go up and makes good contact with our frame there and that's what we're looking for. Now if we lift up on our receiver tube opening, we should be able to pull through our side mount hardware there. These will get the same hardware in the side as well. We're going to use a comical tooth washer like that and then one of our hex nuts. You just want to be careful when you got the pole wire off, that these don't fall back into the frame. Now that we got everything started, let's get it snugged down. Once we have them all snug, we'll want to check our instructions, get our torque specifications and get them torqued down properly. All right, with those torqued down, let's get that exhaust back up in position. Now we want a little more spray lubricant on our hangers here, just to help with getting it into place. We waNt to guide it up and in on each side. Just like that. Now we've get our safety strap down and out of the way there. All right, now we just want to gently get this fascia slid back into position here, make sure our pins line up and see it's just going to snap back into place. Remember those 2 screws we took out, one here and one on the other side, it's time to put those back in. Once that's in place, we're ready to pop our side panel in too. Now we're ready to put the 6 push pin fasteners back in the outside of our wheel well here. We got 3 in the wheel well area and 3 just a little bit lower. Now we will do the same thing for our drivers side. Now the side panels will go back on the vehicle, however, the pocket that is in each one of them, we're going to need to cut the bottom of that off to give our bolt room to slip through. That's really about all we need to do and then we'll be able to get that slid back into position. We've got our small little screws with the 7/32 head here on the outside, push pin fastener here in the front side. Then the 2 small 10 millimeter nuts that go on the top. Now go over to the passenger side, do the same thing and our hitch will be ready for use. That will complete our installation of the draw tight class 3 trailer hitch receiver, part number 75234, on our 2016 Lincoln MKX.

Rob O.


I installed the Draw-Tite hitch on a 2017 Lincoln MKX and the receiver is too low and recessed to be usable for one of the larger rental trailers due to all the stuff hanging from the tongue. Is there a riser best suited to raise and extend the ball? I see lots of options online, but it would be helpful to know which one fits the best.

Victoria B.


The best solution would be to get a ball mount that is long enough and has enough rise in order to tow the trailer with enough clearance and with the trailer level. Introducing an adapter or riser between the ball mount and the hitch will reduce your trailer hitch's capacity as well as increase movement and jarring while towing. Rental trailers commonly have a hitch height of 18 inches. You can check this with your rental company for the trailer you're renting. With your hitch having a height of around 12 inches, you'll want a hitch with a rise around 6 inches. I'd check out the Curt Ball Mount # C45100 and the MaxxTow Adjustable Ball Mount # MT70068 . Both of these ball mounts offer a 6-1/4 inch rise and are 13 inches long to give you plenty of clearance at your bumper.

Bruce G.


I didn't see where you addressed the hands free rear hatch sensor that is under the rear end. Do you have a kit for that, or is there something that I missed in the video.

Etrailer Expert

Jon G.


If your 2016 MKX has the sensors then they will still work. You will need to kick your foot back and forth to either side of the receiver though instead of just swiping your foot under the bumper.

Harold P.


I see you have a video how to install a trailer hitch on a 2016 Lincoln MKX, But when I try and to look up my vehicle to purchase the hitch, my vehicle is not listed

Etrailer Expert

Jon G.


If you have a 2016 Lincoln MKX then I've linked our selection of trailer hitches for you to check out. The Curt and Draw-Tite options available are practically the same so it just kind of boils down to what brand you prefer.

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