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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Nissan Altima - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Nissan Altima


Speaker 1: Today on our 2016 Nissan Altima we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt Class I Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, Part number C11352.So here's what our hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. That cross tube is going to sit right below the bumper, but the main thing we're going to see is the receiver tube sticking out. Now it is a class one which means it's going to give us that inch and a quarter by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening and it's going to be great for bike racks or even cargo carriers.As far as the safety chain connection points go, it's going to be a plate style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube and as you can see we're not going to have too much trouble getting most size hooks on or off and slight off set from our hitch pin hole means we're not going to have to worry about interference with our hooks, with a locking device or the hitch pin itself.Our hitch is going to have a 200 pound towing weight, which is going to be the maximum downward force at the receiver tube. It's also going to have a 2000 pound gross trailer weight rating which is the amount it can pull including the trailer and everything you have loaded on it. Now with all those numbers in mind, you always want to double check your Nissan's owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight. Now if you do plan on doing some light duty towing, keep in mind there are specific ball mounts available and designed for this hitch, and you can pick them up here at etrailer.com.There are two euro style draw bars with permanently attached balls on them.

One being a two inch ball and one being a one and seven eighths ball, as well as a standard draw bar where you will need to purchase a separate ball, or you can pick it all up as a kit.What I really like about this hitch is that even though it does sit below the bumper, it is tucked up underneath enough to where it's really not distracting. It's not going to take away from the looks of our Altima and the receiver tube does have that reinforced collar, just kind of adding to the overall finished look of it.I'd like to give you a few measurements and that's going to help you when deciding for accessories for a new hitch such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier. From the hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of the bumper, it's going to be right about six and a half inches. The measurements going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories, so make sure you have adequate clearance so you don't come in contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be right about ten and a half inches.

Now at that height, I would definitely recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a raised shank, that way you get that little bit more extra ground clearance.Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and going over some of the features, let's show you hot to get it installed.To begin our installation we're going to come to the back of our Altima and right behind our muffler we're going to have this flange here where the tail pipe and the muffler section goes into the Y. You're going to want to take a little bit of penetrating oil and go ahead and spray those down. We're going to have one on each side. So we'll spray the other one down as well because we are going to have to remove the mufflers. So we're going to go and let this set up and soak in a little bit and remove this plastic panel that's going to be on the bottom of our trunk panel.Along the back edge we're going to have three fasteners and then two more towards the middle.

We're going to be using a 10mm socket to pull those out. Now towards the very back of our Altima we're going to have a couple push pins Ours has one missing here at the very left hand side, but there should be one there as well as on the right hand side. You'll notice there's a small notch that's in the push pin. We're going to pop out that center section first. A lot of times they do get jammed up because of rocks and debris that gets stuck in there, but we're going to pop that out so we can get the push pin to come out and then we can pull that entire panel down.

Now this panel's not going to get re-installed. We're going to put the push pine that we have back in place, that way it holds the fascia, has a little bit more support. Now if you have the one over here, I would suggest putting that one back in as well, that way the fascia just does have that little bit of extra support when you're going down the road.Now we can come back to where our two pipes meet, and we're going to take a 15mm socket and we're going to loosen that nut up. You don't need to completely remove it. You just want to loosen it up a good amount so that we can open this pipe a little bit and then slide the muffler off and back. So we'll go ahead and loosen up the other side, too. You're just going to want to open up that clamp just a little bit, just so that the pipe has room to move, and then kind of work it back and forth so we can slide that pipe off of the other one. Once the pipe is loose, we're going to grab the muffler by both ends and we're going to slide it straight back so this hanger can come off of the rubber isolater. So we're going to go ahead and set this aside and repeat that for the other muffler. If you're having trouble getting the driver's side off, we can come back to where our two pipes come to the Y. We're going to take a 12mm socket and we're going to remove the two bolts that are on those hangers.Now on each side of our frame, we'll have this heat shield here, and we'll notice that we're going to have a rivet towards the front of the vehicle and one at the very back. We're going to need to remove the heat shield so the easiest way to do that is to take a small drill bit and we're going to drill out those rivets. So we have that one rivet drilled out, we're going to go ahead and drill out all the remaining rivets holding the heat shield in place.With the heat shield removed, it's going to expose some holes in the frame. We're going to have these tow larger holes towards the back of the frame and the one closest to the front we're going to use as our access point to get our hardware in place. Now the holes are going to be too small for our hardware to go in because we're going to need to fit one of these square hole spacer blocks and one of our half inch carriage bolts inside. So we have a few different options of how we can enlarge that. We can either drill a couple holes on each side and use a file to make it a nice, round, clean hole, cut it with a cut off wheel, or we can use a step bit and just drill until we get it big enough just to get that hardware in place. It's a good idea to periodically stop and check and see if your hardware fits, because we only want it big enough until we can get the hardware in.So now we have the hole large enough for our hardware to fit in, we're going to go ahead and repeat that on the other side. It's never a good idea to leave exposed metal on your vehicle, so I'm going to come back with some rust preventing spray paint and just spray down where we drilled out. We'll do that for all the surfaces that we drilled on.To help us get the hardware interesting he frame, we're going to take out pull wire, we're going to take a clove end, we're going to feed it in through the rear hole, and we're going to go towards the back where we drilled our hole until we can either reach inside and grab it or have it come out the large hole that we drilled. We're going to take a square hole spacer block, slide it over the coiled end, then take one of our carriage bolts and thread it onto the coil. One piece at a time, we're going to feed it in the frame and will pull on our fish wire until the bolt drops down through. Now in your kit you're only going to get one pull wire, so you want to uncoil it from the bolt so that we can get the rest of the hardware in place.Now the forward hole is going to be slightly different. We're still going to put our spacer block over the coiled end and we're going to take our carriage bolt and thread it in place, but we're going to do this all on the outside of the frame and then feed the bolt up and then the spacer block and then we're going to pull our pull wire until it drops down through the frame and engages that block. So now that we have the hardware in place on this side, we're going to go and repeat that for the other side.Now with an extra set of hands we're going to lift our hitch into position. Now when you're lifting it up you want to be extremely careful not to push the bolts back into the frame. We're going to have the bolts drop down through the hitch, then we're going to take one of our half inch flange nuts and we'll thread them in place. You want to make sure that you get at least one nut on each side so the hitch will support itself and then we can get the rest of our hardware in place. So we'll go and put the rest of our hardware in at least hand tight. I'm going to come back with a three quarter inch socket and I'm going to snug up all my half inch hardware. I'm going to come back with a torque wrench. I'm going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. We'll repeat that for any of the remaining hardware.Now we can get ready to put our mufflers back in, but I'm going to spray the hangers down with a little bit of lubricant to make it a little bit easier to put them back in place. We'll line up the hanger and we'll slide the muffler towards the front of the car til we get it pretty close lined up and then we're just going to have to work it back onto the other pipe and we can see the line of where it was. We want to get it as close as we can. We just want to make sure that the little keeper here is lined up. We'll take that 15mm and tighten it back up. We'll make sure to put the other muffler on as well. Now we can take those two bolts out of that hanger in the center and we can re-install them.That will finish up your look at the Curt Class 1 Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C11352 on our 2016 Nissan Altima.


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