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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Subaru Outback Wagon - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Subaru Outback Wagon


Speaker: Today on our 2016 Subaru Outback wagon we will be taking a look at and installing the curt, custom fit class 3 trailer hitch receiver, part number C13206. Here's what our hitch is going to look like once it's installed on our vehicle. It's going to be nice and tucked up underneath the back end with that nice, round stock and fully welded design with black powder coat finish. It's going to help blend into the road and the undercarriage. It's going to have that 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening here, fully welded plate steel design for the chain tie downs on either side, with a 5/8 pin hole going all the way through. Your max tongue weight on the end of your receiver tube is only going to be 600 pounds. With a total trailer weight and towing capacity of 4,000 pounds. With its nice, robust, sturdy design, it's going to last you a long time. Now we'll go ahead and give you a few measurements to assist you in selecting from hitch accessories. From the top of the receiver tube to the ground it's going to be about 15 1/4 inches.

From the center of the pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper it's going to be about 2 1/2 inches. These measurements should assist you in selecting from hitch accessories such as ball mounts, bike racks and cargo carriers for your new hitch. Let's go ahead and check out how it's installed. The first thing we're going to need to do in the installation of our new hitch is we're going to have to lower down the exhaust but before we do so, let's go ahead and put on our safety straps so that way when we lower our exhaust it won't fall under its own weight. We'll take that safety strap and just secure it underneath the back side. Then we'll tighten that up. Locate the 3 hangers, next. One located here, right next to the half shaft, or rear drive shaft assembly.

2 located back here on either side of the muffler. One here, and one up here. Go ahead and spray those down with a little spray lubricant just to assist us in prying them off. Use a flat pry bar just to pry that rubber isolator back. Now that we have those 2 undone let's undo the front one up here. You'll see how that exhaust is going to lower down so we have enough room to work in the back. Next, we'll need to lower down our heat shield for our muffler because this is going to block our mounting location for our receiver hitch.

There's going to be 4 screws or just use a 10 millimeter socket to lower those down. Once you have the screws out go ahead and lower down the heat shield. Now we'll trim that heat shield that we just removed. We'll make a line and we're going to trim right along this edge of the bend back to the big bend, here. Go ahead and mark that out and use a pair of tin snips to cut it out. Now that we have that all trimmed out we're going to bend it back to where it was previously and we'll be ready for that to go back into place once we get our hitch up. On both sides of our frame rail we're going to have 2 rubber plugs that we're going to need to remove. Use a small screwdriver just to pull them out.

Anything we do here on the passenger side, we're going to repeat that same process on the driver's side. On the forward most location, that's going to be our access point, we're going to have to enlarge this hole. We're going to use our rotary file. You can see we'll be able to get our blocks through as well as our carriage bolts. We'll grab our fish wire to pull in from the back hole and come out the hole so we can put in our block and carriage bolt. Bring your coil out the other side, place our block over the coil and into the hole. Then thread on your carriage bolt. Once you have it threaded on go ahead and insert it into the hole. Pull it out. The rear most hole. Go ahead and get an extra set of hands to help us hold the hitch up into place. Put the fish wire through the hole and guide it up on the bolts that we just put in place. Once you have it raised up go ahead and un-thread the fish wire without damaging them, place on your flange nut over the top of the bolt. Now we can use the hitch as a template to drill out our hole. Go ahead and take our fish wire, place it through the hole that we just drilled and out the access hole. Place on our spacer block and carriage bolt. Push them up in and pull them out the hole that we just drilled. Go ahead and un-thread the fish wire, place on your flange nut, now go ahead and tighten everything down and then torque it to manufacturer's specifications. Now we'll go ahead and use a little bit of spray paint to cover up our hole that we drilled out and enlarged. This will help prevent it from rusting. Now we'll go ahead and reinsert our heat shield. Go ahead and reattach our exhaust isolators. Go ahead and lift up the exhaust into position and slide it over. Don't forget to remove your safety strap after you're done, re-securing your exhaust. That will do it for our review and installation of the curt, custom fit class 3 trailer hitch receiver, part number C13206 on a 2016 Subaru Outback wagon. You can find this and everything else right here at etrailer.com. What's up, man.


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew L
Video by:
Andrew L
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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