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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Volt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Chevrolet Volt


Today on our 2017 Chevrolet Volt we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Curt Class I Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C11436. Here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. All you're going to see is the receiver tube coming out from right underneath our bumper here, and it's going to have that reinforced collar. It's going to have a nice clean, finished look to it. Now, this is a Class I hitch, so it's going to give you that inch and 1/4 by inch and 1/4 receiver tube opening. This hitch is going to use a standard 1/2 inch pin and clip, which is included so you're not going to have to worry about picking one of those up. Now, as far as our safety chain loops, they're going to be welded on like a rolled steel stock loop underneath our receiver tube here.

As you can see, you're going to have plenty of room to put on most sized safety chains, and not have to worry about it interfering with anything. This hitch features a 100 pound gross tongue weight rating, which is going to be the force that's pushing down. It also features a 1,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount that it can pull. Now, I do want to mention you want to double check with your vehicle's owner's manual to make sure that your vehicle can handle that amount of weight. Now, Curt does recommend using a safety strap when carrying any non-trailer loads, such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier. I'm going to give you a few measurements that's going to help you in deciding for accessories for your new hitch, such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier.

From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is 5 1/4 inches. Now, from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is 10 1/2 inches. Now that we've gone over some of these features, let's go ahead and show you how we get it installed. To begin our installation we're going to need to remove the panel underneath the underside of our trunk here, and we're going to have several different fasteners that we're going to need to take out. We're going to be starting with the 7 millimeter bolts here, and we're going to be using a 7 millimeter socket to take these out. Now, if we come back farther underneath, we'll find that we'll have several more 7 millimeter bolts that will need to be removed.

Now, if we come farther back under our panel again, you'll notice these plastic nuts, and we'll be using a 10 millimeter socket to remove these. Now I do want to mention, give you an idea of where we are under our vehicle here. This panel that we're taking off is a rather large panel. It's going to go all the way from the trunk to just in front of our rear tires. We're going to have to take off all the fasteners, which should be seven plastic 10 millimeter clips and eight 7 millimeter bolts. Now finally to remove our panel, we're going to need to take these screws out here.

I'm going to be using a T15 torques bit to take those out. Now, we're going to have one more fastener right here in the middle before we can fully pull our panel down. It's a plastic push pin, and I'm just going to be taking a flathead screwdriver, then you find the indentation here and get underneath it, and you pry the center section out, which will release it and then you can pull the whole clip out. Now, if you're having a little bit of trouble with the clip coming out, once you have it released a little bit you grab it with a pair of pliers and pull the clip out the rest of the way. Now with all of our fasteners removed I'm going to carefully pull down our panel. I'm going to start here in the back. Start by separating two panels where they overlap, and then slowly working my way around, pulling the panel off the studs. We're going to put this aside for reinstallation later. Now, if we come behind our wheels here, on each side we're going to have four torque screws that we're going to need to remove. We're going to be using a T15 torques bit to remove those. Now that we have the four removed on our one wheel well, we're going to repeat the same process on the other side. Behind our wheel well where we just removed our four torque screws, if we pull it back and we look right at the seam where our fascia meets our fender, we're going to have a bolt that's holding it in place right here. That's going to need to be removed, and we're going to be using a 7 millimeter socket to remove that. Now, once we have this one removed we're going to do the same thing on the other side. With all of the panels and fasteners underneath our vehicle removed, we're going to have to remove our taillights. We'll come to our back hatch, open it up, and we're going to need to remove the three fasteners on each side of our taillight here. Now the two here, I want to be using a T15 torques bit to remove those. For this fastener down here I'm going to be using a Philips head screwdriver. We can start pulling our taillight out. You're going to want to pull straight back and kind of go with a general wiggling motion, and it'll pop the clips loose. Just want to be careful not to break any of your clips. Once we have our taillight removed we're going to come to this connector right here, we're going to push that red tab backwards. We're going to push down on that button here and unplug our taillight, and we're going to set this aside for reinstallation later. Since we have this one out, we're going to do the same process on the other side. Now, underneath our bumper right behind each one of our tires, we're going to have a few more fasteners that we're going to have to remove before we can pull our fascia off. Now, here on the driver's side there's going to be two screws and we're going to be using a T15 torques bit to remove them. Now we're going to do the same thing on the passenger side, except on the passenger side we're going to have three fasteners we're going to have to remove. Here we have our panel that we removed in the beginning, and I marked out the measurement that they gave me in the instructions, and I'm going to be cutting this out. Now, you can either use a pair of tin snips, a rotary tool, pretty much anything to cut this material; it's not very thick. Now we'll be able to reinstall the panel once the hitch is in place and we won't have to worry about this section interfering with anything. Now, we're going to do one more thing before we remove our fascia. We're going to have to lower our exhaust down. Before we remove our fascia and lower our exhaust, I want to put a strap going around our exhaust so it'll allow it to come down, but it won't go down too far and cause any damage. Now with an extra set of hands we're going to get ready to remove our fascia. Now I do want to mention, our vehicle is equipped with backup sensors and some lights, so you want to be extra careful and mind where you're pulling because of any connectors. Now, we're going to start back here towards the rear of our tire, and we're just going to pull away from the vehicle and work our way around. Now if you look right here, we're going to have our connector. You just push in on this tab here, connector should come apart. We're going to set our fascia aside so it doesn't get damaged. With our fascia removed we're going to need to remove our bumper beam. We're going to have three nuts; two on top here and one underneath on each side. I want to be using a 15 millimeter socket to remove these. We're also going to remove the three on the other side. On the passenger side here right above our exhaust, our exhaust hanger is going to be right underneath our bumper beam. We're going to need to remove these two bolts here, and we're going to be using a 13 millimeter socket. With those bolts removed, we're going to take our hanger and we're going to slide it out of the way. It may take a little bit of force to slide the muffler back far enough to get enough room to pull our hanger out. With our hanger out of the way we can go ahead and pull our bumper beam off. Now we're ready to put our hitch up. We're going to go ahead and slide it right over the studs on our vehicle and we're just going to let it sit there like that. Put our bumper beam on top of our hitch. With our bumper beam and hitch loosely in place, we can now take our exhaust clamp, hanger, put it back on the stems of our muffler, and we're going to lift it into place back over the clamp, and we can put our hardware back in place. Now, if everything's not lining up properly you just take a flathead screwdriver or something small and able to maneuver the brackets, line up the holes. With our muffler hanger in place we can come back and replace our hardware for our bumper beam. With all of our hardware in place, I'm going to go ahead and snug it down. Again, I'm going to be using a 15 millimeter socket for the nuts holding our bumper beam in place. Again, for our exhaust hangers I'm using a 13 millimeter socket. I'm going to torque my exhaust hanger bolts to the specified amount in the instructions, and again, 13 millimeter socket. Now I'm going to torque my bumper beam bolts to the specified amount in the instructions, and again, using a 15 millimeter socket. Now with an extra set of hands we're going to reinstall our fascia, and remembering to plug in our connector before we do. With our fascia reinstalled we can go ahead and put our taillights back into place. Plug them in, making sure that we close that locking tab. We line up our taillights, push the clips into place, and we can replace our hardware. Now we're going to repeat the same process on our driver side. Now I'm just going to be putting back all the hardware on all the panels we removed before we started our installation. Before we reinstall our lower panel that we removed and trimmed, I'm going to go ahead and take the strap from my exhaust down and set it aside for now. I'm going to go ahead and slip my panel into place. That'll finish up our look at the Curt Class I Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C11436 on our 2017 Chevrolet Volt.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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