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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Lincoln MKX

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Lincoln MKX


Today on our 2017 Lincoln MKX we're going to be installing the Draw-Tite's class three two inch trailer hitch receiver. And this is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. As you can see, the cross tube's completely hidden behind the bumper, so you're really only going to be able to see the receiver sticking out the back here. It's a class three two inch by two inch receiver, so it's going to be great for all of your towing needs from bike racks to cargo carriers to trailers, it'll handle just about everything. It uses a five bay synch hitch pin and clip. Now one doesn't come included with this hitch, which you can pick one up here at etrailer.com.In addition to the five eighths inch hitch pin, there's a small hole just to the rear of that hitch pin hole.

This will allow you to use the J pin. The J pin's, very similar to a hitch pin, but it curves around and it goes into this whole pressing against whatever's in your receiver acting as an anti rattle device.If features, a vertical plate style safety chain loops. They have a nice large opening that should accommodate just about every shape and size of safety chain. It features a 675 pound tongue weight, which is the force going down on top of the receiver and a 4,500 pound gross towing capacity, which is how much it can pull behind it. You can use a weight distribution system with this hitch, however, it does not change it's gross towing capacity or tongue weight.

As always, you want to verify in your vehicles owners manual to ensure you don't exceed any of its towing capacities.One final feature I'd like to show you is that when your hitch is installed, it's not going to affect your hands free lift gate operation. So if you're holding your key, give a little kick underneath, it still opens and closes.And I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories from the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube and measures is about 12 inches. This is important when determining if you need to drop, rise or raise shank any of your accessories. And since it is so low, I do recommend that you get a raise shank on your accessories. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper and measures about six inches.

This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper.We'll begin our installation under the vehicle by removing both side panels on the driver and passenger side. There's two bolts here underneath that we'll remove with a five and a half millimeter socket. Then if we go off our side panel, you're going to see two nuts that you're gonna need to remove with a 10 millimeter socket. There's one push pin we're going to need to remove. You can use a trim panel remover tool to pull off the center of the head.

If you don't have a trim panel removal tool, a pair of side cutters work really well. Simply get the side cutters behind the head. Now we don't want to cut it, we just want to pop out the center like we did there and then we can pull the whole thing out.We can now pull our panel down instead of the side. Next we'll remove our exhaust hangers on our muffler, so we're going to spray those with some lubricant to make it easier to pop them off. When you push your hanger off here, you'll see there's a metal bracket around it. That should just come off with a rubber. We'll do the same thing on the other side. Now if you look at your instructions on your MKX Mount, what does recommend you remove the entire rear facia bumper, but rather than moving the entire bumper, as it does require some rivet removal and the kit doesn't come with any rivets, we're just going to take the exhaust down as it's only a few bolts to get the whole exhaust out.To start, we're going to put a strap up just to hold the backside when we're taking down the front side of the exhaust. We're just going to hook our straps in place and that'll hold it back up. There's four bolts we're going to need to remove two separate our exhaust. There's two on each pipe here and we're up the center of the vehicle kind of behind the front tires. We're gonna use a 15 millimeter socket to remove those. Now before we take our hangers loose up here in the front, I am going to put another strap in place just to make it easier to take the exhaust down. This will catch it because it is kind of heavy and you don't want to take an exhaust to the foot.We'll now remove our hanger. Just going to use a 13 millimeter socket for the nuts and two bolts. There's another hanger just like this on the other side. Now with everything loose we can take our exhaust. We're going to push it rearward. We've now separated here in the front and now I do recommend that you get yourself an extra set of hands to help drop this down. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to take our straps loose in both the front and the rear. We're going to slide it towards the front. Now we'll drop it down and we'll set it out of the way. We'll now need to remove the trim panel located here just to the rear where our muffler was. There's a bolt here in the center we're going to need to remove the 10 millimeter socket and then there are six bolts that run along the bottom that we're going to need to take out with a five and a half millimeter socket.You can then take this panel down and set it aside as we won't be reinstalling it. We'll now need to enlarge the oval hole here, this is going to be our access hole for feeding our hardware. We're going to be using a file to enlarge it. You repeat this on the other side and ensure that your hard work can slip in easily. We'll now take the coiled wire that comes in the kit. We're going to feed it in through our side hole and come out through the hole that we just enlarged. We'll slide a spacer on it, followed by a carriage bolt, and we'll push those up into the frame and pull it back out the hole.You're going to repeat this for the other side hole and the two round bottom holes in your frame. You're going to do that on the other side as well. To ensure you've got enough clearance, we are going to want to remove this stud that's hanging down down here. Now you can do that by cutting it off with a die grinder, but if you don't have a die grinder, good way to remove it is to use a pair of vice grips and just work it back and forth and it pops right out.And to keep out any moisture, we're going to just use some silicone to seal that up. If you need some silicone, you can pick some up here at etrailer.com. Now with an extra set of hands, we'll raise our hitch into position. You'll want to make sure you feed your fish wires through. The center hole on your hitch that's larger than the rest is for a stud to poke through, so you don't want to put your fish wires through that hole. Once your hitch is up, you'll pull your side bolts out and that'll hold your hitch up, making it easier to install your hardware.We'll have six conical tooth washers and two lock washers. Both side bolts will use conical tooth washers and the bolt that's closest to the front of the vehicle on the bottom we'll use a conical tooth washer. The bolt that's on the bottom towards the rear of the vehicle here, is going to just use the plain lock washer, and this is because of the clearance to the hitch there. The conical tooth wouldn't fit. You want to be careful not to push your bolts back into the frame as it can be difficult to get them back out. And now we'll tighten down all of our hardware with a 17 millimeter socket.We can then go back and torque all of our hardware to the specifications found in our instruction. Now all that's left is to put your exhaust and your side panels back into place. We're just going to install those following the reverse order. And this is what you'll have when you're done. And that completes our installation of the Draw-Tite's class three two inch trailer hitch receiver on our 2017 Lincoln MKX.


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