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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Subaru Crosstrek - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek

Today on our 2017 Subaru Crosstrek, we're going to take a look at and also show you how to install the Curt custom fit class III trailer hitch receiver. Offering the 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening, it's part number is C13135. Now here's what our hitch is going to look like installed. We have our side plates, this is going to be a pretty symmetrical look. It's going to have this square tube that'll come over here to the receiver tube opening. Now, with this being a class III hitch, we have the two inch by two inch receiver tube opening. Makes it a very, very versatile hitch. To secure those items in place, we've got the 5/8 diameter pinhole here.

This pinhole you'll want to use class III rated accessories for, but there's plenty of room around the outside of it there, whether you're using a regular hitch pin and clip, a locking hitch pin, or even anti-rattle device, you shouldn't have any issues. You can see the reinforcement collar around the end here. It's kind of a flush look, and it's about even with the back edge of the car, so pretty clean looking here in the rear. I don't think you'll have to worry about bumping into it or anything. We've got our safety chain connection points down here. These are going to be a rounded steel stock style connection point, and there's a good amount of room there so you shouldn't have any issues getting your chains connected. When it comes to weight ratings for the hitch, it's going to offer us a 525 pound ton weight rating.

That'd be the maximum downward force we could put here at the receiver tube opening. It gives us a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating. That would be the total weight of our trailer and anything that we we're to load up on it. Now, you will want to check with your owner's manual in your Subaru and see what it's tow ratings are, and then go off of whichever of those numbers are the lowest. The hitch is not designed for use with torsion bars or a weight distribution set up, so you want to avoid that. If you are hauling non-wheeled loads, something other than a trailer, like a cargo carrier or a bike rack; they do recommend the use of a stabilization strap. Now, a couple of measurements are going to be helpful when it comes time to select your ball mount, bike rack, or hitch cargo carrier.

Will be from the ground to the inside tap edge of the receiver tube opening, we've got about 14 inches. Then, from the center of your hitch pin hold to the outermost edge of our bumper, it's going to be about 2 1/4. Now, for the first step in our installation process, we're going to lower down this exhaust a little bit. It's going to give us some room to work. We've got two hangars on this side, then straight over we'll have our third. It's going to be right here.

Now we're also going to be pulling the one off located right here, this gives us some extra room to work. This is going to be just forward and to the driver's side of the rear differential. Now, if you do pull this forward hanger, you're going to want to support your exhaust. We're just going to use a cam buckle strap here. Now to get these off, spray lubricants usually pretty helpful. You want to spray your top and your bottom and just separate whichever side of them you can. I think on this side at the top might be the easiest. Large screwdriver or pry bar will help you out. All right, that should give us plenty of room. Now we'll come up to the frame rail, this is on our driver's side. This plug covers our forward attachment point, and this one's going to be for the rear. We want to get those out of the way. The one that's in the middle, we can just leave there. It'll kind of be sandwiched. We're going to do the same thing on both sides of our vehicle. Now, to install our hardware, we're going to need for our carriage bolts to pass through this hole, and also our spacer block. You'll see we are going to have to enlarge that hole slightly to allow those to go through. You can use a regular file to kind of open the hole up, or typically what I'd use is just going to be a rotary tool. You're just going to kind of notch it on each side and allow room for our bolt and also our spacer to pass through. All right, now you'll see just by opening up this end of that hole a little bit, our spacer block will pass fine, and so will our bolt. We can go do the same thing over on the other side, and we will touch this up with a little bit of rust preventative spray paint or undercoating, just so we don't have that bare metal. Now to get our hardware in position, we're going to use pull wires. For our rear locations, we're going to use the smaller spacer block and the smaller 7/16 inch carriage bolt. Put that fish wire right up into the rear hole location, send that forward. You should be able to feel it and get that to come out of our hole. There's that. Our spacer block's going to go on, we'll follow that up with the carriage bolt, feed them up into the frame separately. Then just pull it down through. Then we'll take our fish wire off here and do the same thing for that on the other side, but while we're on this side we can take care of getting our 1/2 inch carriage bolts into position. It'll be a little different, we're going to put the carriage bolt in the spacer block and then thread on the pull wire. Put our bolt in, and our spacer block, and then we'll pull that back down through. Then we'll do that same thing on the passenger side as well. Now with the help of an extra set of hands, we're going to be able to get our hitch lifted up into position. We're just going to guide our bolts through the holes that are in our flange. You want to be careful not to push those up into the frame itself, and then we're going to thread on one of our flange nets. We'll do the rearmost bolt with our smaller nut, and we can just let our hitch rest there while we get our spacers on the front side. Now with that forward not started, we should still be able to just tilt our hitch slightly, slide our spacer in, and then allow our bolt to come back down through. Once we have that done on both sides, then we'll put our flange nuts on there. Once we have everything started, we'll get our hardware snugged down, and then we'll torque them to the specifications listed in our instructions. Now with those torqued down, we'll get our exhaust put back up. It's a good idea to hit your hangers with a little more spray lubricant, just so it'll slide on a little better. All right, then we pull down our strap, and our hitch will be ready for use. With our exhaust back in place, that's going to complete our installation of the Curt custom fit class III trailer hitch receiver, part number C13135, on our 2017 Subaru Crosstrek.

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