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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon, we're going to be installing Draw-Tite's Class 3 2 Inch Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76227.Now this is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. It's got a 2 inch by 2 inch receiver, and it's rated for class 3. It features hoop style safety chain loops, and these are nice because they have a nice large opening so it's easy to accommodate just about any size safety chain.It uses a 5/8ths inch hitch pin and clip. One doesn't come included, but can be picked up here a with part number PC3. The smaller hole, located behind the hitch pin hole, allows you to use a J-pin. A J-pin's nice because it'll press up against any accessories you have installed on your hitch, and acts as an anti-rattle device.It features a 600 pound tongue weight, and that's the force going down on top of the receiver, and a 4000 pound gross towing capacity, that's how much it can pull behind it.

Make sure you check your vehicles owners manual to ensure you're not exceeding its towing capacities.And now I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiving tube, it measures about 15-1/2 inches. This is important when deciding if you need a drop, rise, or raised shank on your accessory. And from the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper, it measures about 3 inches. This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper.We'll begin the installation at the back of the vehicle.

You'll need to open up your lift gate, and this will give us some access to some hardware that we'll need to remove.On the inside of each taillight, you'll see two plastic screw pins, unscrew the center of the pin and then pull the pin out. Do this with the bottom pin as well, and then repeat the same thing on the other side.Once both pins are removed, you'll then remove the plastic panel. You may need a flathead screwdriver to kind of get behind it to help pry it out. Now you can just pull your plastic panel off.We can then remove both bolts that hold in our taillight. Use a 10 millimeter socket to remove these bolts.

We can then remove our taillight assembly. You can do this by pulling it rearward until it releases. Then press in on the tab on the electrical connector located here, which will allow you to disconnect the plug. Remove both bulbs by twisting it counter clockwise and sliding the bulb out, and then set your taillight assembly aside. We'll repeat the exact same steps on the opposite side.Underneath your taillight, you'll find a small circular panel.

Use a small flat bladed screwdriver to pop this out, and we'll remove the 10 millimeter bolt located behind it. We'll do that on both sides.We're now located on our drivers side fender well. Here at the top of your fascia, we're going to need to remove this pin. Push in the center of the pin, and then you can pop it out. If you have mudflaps installed, you'll need to remove the three Phillips head screws here. And there's one pin located underneath, use a flat bladed screwdriver to pop out the center and then you can pull the tab out.Then remove the final pin holding the mudflap on. This one's located on the inside behind the tire. It removes in the same manner. Then you can drop your mudflap down, and repeat those same steps on the other side.We'll now remove the seven pins located along the bottom. These remove in the same way as the other ones.We're now ready to remove our fascia. Now just pull outward, and that'll release all the tabs. Once you get to the back, you'll have to kind of pull upwards slightly to get it off these tabs. Once you've got one side loose, you'll want to switch over to the other side and do the same thing. Once you've got both sides released, you'll want to pull out towards the center making sure to keep it supported so it doesn't fall down.You'll want to disconnect the connector that goes to your backup sensors. There's a tab located here, you'll want to push that in and pull it away from the other connector. We can now take our fascia, and set it aside to where it won't get any damage.We'll now remove our bumper beam. If you've got any rust penetrant, it's a good idea to spray that on the bolts before removing them. And we'll now remove the eight bolts that hold on the bumper beam, using a 14 millimeter socket.We can now remove our bumper beam. I left a couple bolts on each side, just hand tight just to hold it on. Remove both of those, slide the bumper beam back and set it aside.The center tab located at the bottom will be in the way of the receiver, so we'll have to bend it up and flat against the panel.We'll now raise our hitch into position, put it up on our studs. We'll then put our bumper beam on top of it and sandwich it. If you're doing this by yourself, I'd recommend putting your hitch up and just finger tightening a nut on each side just to hold it in place so you can grab your bumper beam.Now that we've got our bumper beam, we can take that bolt off, raise our bumper beam into position, and get one started. And we'll get one started on the other side.Once you've got a nut started on each side, it'll hold itself into position, making it easier to install the remaining hardware. We're going to use all the hardware that we just removed to reinstall our bumper beam with the hitch behind it. Now tighten down all your hardware using a 14 millimeter socket. Now torque all of your hardware to the specifications in your instructions.We now want to cut out an area for our hitch to fit. Refer to your instructions for exact measurements, then use a cutting that will cutout the area that you marked. You can now use a file to clean up the burrs. We did cut through the middle of our center attachment point, but that's okay because we won't be using it. That's the attachment point that we bent up to make clearance for our receiver tube.We can now reinstall our fascia. You want to get it lined up on each side, and before we go in we're going to plug our electrical connector back on, work your fascia up making sure not to pinch your lighting components behind it, get your center tabs lined up and check your outer tabs. Then you can just start pressing it back into place.Once you've got all the lower fasteners installed on your fascia, if you had mudflaps ensure that you reinstall those next. Then we'll reinstall our taillights. And your cover panels will be reinserted.And that completes our installation of Draw-Tite's Class 3 2 Inch Trailer Hitch Receiver, on our 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Dave L.

etrailer does an amazing job of describing how to install your hitch, and their customer support is fantastic.

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