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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Toyota Sienna - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Toyota Sienna

Today on our 2017 Toyota Sienna, we're going to be taking a look at and show you how to install the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76112. Here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. The cross tube is going to tuck up nicely behind the fascia and all we're really going to see is the receiver tube sticking out. It is a class III hitch, which means it's going to give us a 2" by 2" receiver tube opening. It's also going to feature a nice reinforced collar, not only giving it added strength but a nice, clean, finished look. Our hitch is going to use a standard 5/8 pin and clip and that's going to be the hole towards the front of the vehicle. It doesn't come with one, but you can pick one up on our website using part number PC3. The secondary hole towards the back of our hitch, that's going to be for the J-Pin stabilization device, which is going to be great if any of your accessories don't have a built-in anti-rattle. As far as the safety chain loops go, it's going to be a rolled steel stock style, loop style welded to the bottom.

As you can see, we're going to have plenty of room to get most sized hooks on or off. Our hitch is going to feature a 525 lbs tongue weight, along with a 3,500 lbs gross trailer weight rating. It is designed to be used with weight distribution systems, and those numbers are going to stay the same. I do want to mention to you, you always want to double check your vehicle's owner's manual to make sure that your van can handle pulling that amount of weight. One of the nice features our hitch has is right here, right below our fascia; we're going to have a bracket welded on to the cross tube. There we can mount any of our electrical accessories so when we're ready to tow our connections will be right there. I'd like to give you a few measurements to help you in deciding for accessories for your new hitch such as a ball mount, bike rack, or even our cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of the bumper, it's going to be 4".

Now from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be right about 12". Now that we've gone over some of the features and benefits, let's show you how we get it installed. To begin our installation we're going to need to remove the appearance panel underneath our trunk pan here. We're going to have five bolts on the very edge towards the back holding it in place. I'm going to be using a 10 mm socket to remove these bolts. We're also going to have a few classic screw type fasteners that are holding it in place. There's going to be two in the back, one on each side, and then one towards the back of our vehicle here on each side; so there's going to be a total of four.

We're going to be a Phillips head screwdriver to remove them. We're going to repeat that for the other three remaining fasteners. Now we're going to have some push pin fasteners that we're also going to have to remove as well. There's going to be a total of seven of them; one here, here, two in the center, and then a few more on the left side. They way we're going to take these out is I'm going to take a flat head screwdriver and we're going to pop the center section out to release the clip, then we can take out the rest of the clip. We're going to repeat that for all of the remaining fasteners. We're going to go ahead and set this panel aside for now.

The next step is going to be lowering our exhaust, and we don't want to let it hang down too low, so we're going to be taking a strap to help support it. The easiest way to lower it down would be to come to our rubber isolator sheer, we're going to have to remove the hanger out of the rubber isolator. To help me with that, I'm going to take a little bit of penetrating oil and we're just going to spray a little bit on there. That will help it slide off a little easier. Now we're going to have this one hanger that's directly in front of the tail pipe. Then if we go back to the muffler, we're going to have one that's also attached to the driver's side of the muffler. Slide the isolator off, and that will give us plenty of room to get our hitch in place now. On each side of our frame we're going to have several black stickers and one rubber plug. We're going to need to remove the stickers because they're going to have the factory weld nuts underneath. The plug right here can go ahead and stay in place. I'm just going to take a flat head screwdriver, you can take the utility knife or anything you have around to help get this sticker off. As you can see, we have a weld nut inside the frame, and that's going to be our mounting location. I'm going to go ahead and remove the rest of these stickers, as well as the other side. We did have the stickers covering up our weld nuts, so there shouldn't be any debris or any dirt in there. Just in case you didn't have the stickers or they do look a little dirty, I'm going to take a little bit of penetrating oil and I'm going to spray it inside my weld nut. Then I want to come back with a nylon brush and I'm going to clean out all the debris. If you need one of these nylon brushes, you can pick one up on our website. I'm going to go and repeat that for all the remaining weld nuts. Now our hitch, when we get it in place, it is going to sit behind our fascia up here. Per the instructions, we're supposed to remove the rear fascia. We've found we can get it in there without removing the rear fascia. These tabs right here, I'm actually going to take these tabs and temporarily I'm just going to bend them down out of the way. We're going to have one of these tabs on each side of the backside of our car. The three weld nuts on each side of the frame, we're going to be taking an M12 bolt from our kit, followed by a 1/2" lock washer, and then finally followed by a 1/2" flat washer. That's what we're going to be putting in place to secure our hitch. With an extra set of hands, we're going to take our hitch and put it in place. We're going to slide it over our exhaust. We're going to take our fascia, the tabs on it, and we're going to slide them out of the way. Just make sure the tab goes on the outside of our hitch. Then we can get our hardware in place. We're only going to get one bolt in on each side, just enough to support the hitch, so I can get the rest of my hardware in place. I'm going to come back with a 19 mm socket and tighten up all my bolts. We're going to repeat that for all of the remaining bolts. I'm going to come back and torque all my bolts down to the specified amount in the instructions. We're going to repeat that for all of the remaining bolts. Now in order to reinstall our appearance panel we are going to have to trim it out. There is a diagram in the instructions and I went ahead and measured and drew out the section that's going to need to be trimmed. This material is pretty flexible, so you should be able to just use a knife to cut it. That's what I'm going to be doing. You just want to take your time, make sure that you don't slip and cut any more than you need to. For these tabs that we've bent down, we can go ahead and bend them back up into place. You just want to make sure that they're not making contact with the hitch. We'll go ahead and bend the other one up as well. Our hitch is going to feature a bracket that we can mount our electrical accessories for, which in the instructions they don't give us any measurements to cut out for it. What I did was, I found the mounting location right next to it, and then I measured from the center of this hole to the edge of my bracket. Then on my panel, made a mark right there on the panel, and then measured how long my bracket was and then cut back to the mounting hole. I'll show you how I marked it out. Here's the mounting hole, I just went over just before the edge of that crease right there. Then I measured over roughly about 3", and then I just made it go straight across and come all the way down. This is optional because if you're not going to be using the bracket, then you don't need to cut it out. The panel will just cover it up. In our case, we are going to be adding a bracket later, so I'm going to go ahead and cut it out now. With our panel trimmed out, we can go ahead and put it back in place. Line up all of our tabs, and we can start putting all our hardware back in place too. Go ahead and put our exhaust back into place, just going to want to move the rubber isolator out of the way and it should slide right on. Finally, we can remove the strap. That will finish up our look at the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76112 on our 2017 Toyota Sienna.

Questions and Comments about this Video


Took about 2 hours. didnt detach the muffler,reattached the front of the shield and then used tin snips to cut out for the hitch receptor, and then attached the rest of the fasteners no need to measure this way and I got a closer fit.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Chris R.

Great! Thanks so much for this feedback.

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