bing tracking image

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver Installation - 2018 Audi Q5

content loading

Customers compare C13331 to these similar products

Products Featured in this Video

How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2018 Audi Q5

Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Audi Q5, we're gonna be taking a look at showing you how to install the Curt custom-fit class-three trailer hitch receiver, part number C13331.Here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. What I really like about this is the cross tube's gonna be completely hidden and all we're gonna see is the receiver tube sticking out, so it's not gonna take away from the looks of our Audi. It is a class three hitch, which means it's gonna give us that two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, and as we can see it has a nice reinforced collar, not only giving it added strength, but a nice finished look.Now right here, we're gonna have our hitch pinhole and it's gonna use a standard 5/8 pinning clip. Now, it doesn't come with one but you can pick one up on our website using part number PC3 and as we can see, on both sides we're gonna have plenty of room whether you use a standard pin and clip or if you choose to get a locking pin and clip or even an anti-rattle device.So the safety chain connection points, it's gonna be a loop style welded to the bottom, and as you can see we're not gonna have any trouble getting most sized hooks on or off since there's plenty of room in here.Our hitch is gonna have a 750 pound tongue weight, along with a 5000 pound gross trailer weight rating. Now I do want to mention, you always want to double check the owner's manual of your Q5 to make sure you don't exceed the rating of your car.Now I'd like to give you a few measurements to help you in decided for accessories for your new hitch, such as a ball mount, bike rack, or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pinhole to the outermost edge of the bumper, it's gonna be right about two and a half inches.

Now from the ground, the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, that's gonna be right around 14 3/8 inches. Now that we've seen what it looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, we're gonna want to come to the underside of our vehicle, just right underneath the bumper behind the muffler here and we're gonna have four fasteners that we're gonna have to remove. I'm gonna be using a T25 torch bit to pull these bolts out.Now if we move to the wheel well area, we're gonna have a T25 torch bolt holding in at the very bottom corner here, and again I'm gonna be using a T25 torch bit to remove that. It's gonna be kinda hard to see, because it is at the very bottom corner right where the plastic meets our fender liner. Now that we have this side removed, we're gonna do the same thing on the other side.Alright, now if we come to the bottom of our wheel well liner here, we're gonna want to pull it away from the bumper.

Then we want to pull it away pretty high, but if we look inside we're gonna have a total of three bolts that we're gonna need to take out, and again I'm gonna be using a T25 torch bit.Now with these three removed, we're gonna be doing the same thing on the other side as well. We're gonna want to come to the outside trim piece around the wheel well here, and if we grab it at the very bottom and start pulling away at the same time as we hold the fascia in place, it should start popping out. You just gonna want to work your way up until we can gain access to this screw right here so it's exposed. I'm gonna be using a T25 torch bit to take it out.Now we're gonna want to pull the other one out on the other side as well too. At this point we need to open up our hatch and on each side towards the bottom we're gonna have this plastic fastener right here.

I'm gonna be using a T20 torch bit to remove it.Now you're gonna want to pull both of them out, one on each side. So you're gonna want to pull up your floor covering. Now, we don't have to pull it out all the way, you just want it out of the way of the threshold right here. We come to the side of our threshold, and we're gonna want to start prying up on it so we can pop this out.Now I'm gonna be using a plastic trim panel tool just so I don't scratch the plastic here, but you can use whatever you have available. You just want to get underneath it and pry up, and you can hear the clips releasing.

Once we have a few of them released, we can just grab it by hand and start working our way to the other side.Then we can go ahead and pull it out, and we'll set it aside so it doesn't get damaged. Now at the back where we just pulled our threshold off, we're gonna find two plugs on each side. If we go to the outer one , towards the outside of the vehicle, we're gonna want to remove both those plugs, one from each side.Now on the inside where we just removed that rubber plug, there's gonna be a nut holding it on. I'm gonna be using a 10 millimeter socket and an extension to gain access to that. Might be a little difficult to get in there, just because of all the floor coverings, and you do have the option of taking it out but you can reach it and gain access without taking everything out.I'm gonna reach in there and grab the nut, that way I don't have to worry about it falling down into the bumper. Now to help me grab it, I'm gonna get a magnet and put it inside. Now you're gonna want to pull the other nut off on the other side as well. We're gonna have this access panel on each side. We're just gonna come to this knob, turn it to unlock it and then we can pull the panel up and put it aside.Now if we come to the very back of our vehicle, move this foam out of the way, we're gonna find a large hole just like we had down here. That's gonna have another 10 millimeter bolt inside. We're gonna be using a 10 millimeter socket to remove it.Now, you can grab the nut with your hand, but again I'm using a magnet because I don't want to drop it. So I'm just gonna get the magnet in there once it's all unthreaded and then we can pull the nut out.Now we're gonna have another one of these in the same location on the other side that we're gonna have to remove. Now we're gonna get ready to pull our fascia off and it's always a good idea to grab an extra set of hands. We're gonna start at the edge where it meets our fender here and slowly start pulling away, releasing the clips. We're just gonna want to slowly start pulling away, working your way towards the center.Now before we pull it completely away, we're gonna have some electrical components that we're gonna have to disconnect. Our electrical connector here is attached to the vehicle, and if you follow it up, we're gonna have several different clips holding everything in place as well as several different connectors that we're gonna have to disconnect. So if possible, support your fascia just off to the side of where you're working where it won't get in the way and it won't get damaged, that way we won't have to take everything off the bumper here.Now we're gonna need to locate the four bolts that are holding our bumper beam in place. We're gonna have four on each side. I'm gonna be using a 16 millimeter socket to remove them. Now, the top two bolts on each side are gonna be holding on this bumper support beam here, so you just want to keep that in mind when you're removing the bolts, you don't want to let anything fall down.On the bottom bolts we are gonna have this access hole cut through our bumper beam, but if we get an extension we'll be able to reach that bolt. I do want to mention, one thing I like to do is leave one bolt in, just with a few threads, so that the bumper beam doesn't fall down so I can get the rest of them out.We have a stud right underneath the center of our bumper beam here on each end, so we're not gonna have to worry about it falling down or anything like that once we remove the bolts. With that side removed, we're gonna go ahead and remove the other side as well.Now with all the bolts removed, we're gonna go ahead and pull the bumper beam off and set it aside for right now. You want to grab your hitch, and that pin that was holding our bumper beam in place should hold our hitch in place so we can put our hitch up and you may need to grab an extra set of hands to help you, or maybe put one of the bolts in just to hold it so it won't fall off.I'm gonna go ahead and put one bolt on each side to help support my hitch while I grab the rest of my parts. We're gonna want to sandwich our hitch between our bumper beam and replace that bumper bracket there, and then we can reinstall our factory hardware hand tight so we don't have to worry about everything falling, and then we get the rest of our hardware in place.With all of our hardware in place, I'm gonna come back with the same 16 millimeter socket and snug up all my hardware. We'll repeat that for any remaining hardware. At this point, we're ready to torque our hitch down. So again using the 16 millimeter socket and a torque wrench this time, I'm gonna torque all my hardware to the specified amount in the instructions. We'll repeat that for all of our hardware.We are gonna have to trim a small section of our fascia before we can put it back in place, but we need to make sure that this wire's gonna be out of the way. So we can start on the end, and we need to start working our way towards the center section, pulling these clips out. Now, we're gonna need to trim in between the two clips in the very center here. Now the instructions do give you a measurement, but just for sake of everything, the measurement does come out to be right in the center between these two clips, so we're just gonna trim out that section going all the way up to this plastic here.I put a couple pieces of tape just to help me make sure that I cut that in a straight line, or as close as possible. I'm gonna be using a pair of aviation snips, because it is just some plastic. Then I go ahead and cut that section out. When you're cutting, you just want to make sure that you don't cut those tabs off, because it is gonna hold that wire.Now the wire here, we are gonna leave unattached and we're just gonna leave it loose until we get the fascia back on the vehicle and make sure that everything clears. Now with an extra set of hands, we're gonna get our fascia back into place. You just want to pay attention to those bolts that are coming through, where we had to remove those two 10 millimeter nuts. You just want to push everything into place and make sure that it clears the hitch.You want to start working your way towards the side, making sure all the clips reengage. With the fascia in place, we can start replacing all of our hardware. With all the bolts on the inside replaced, we'll go ahead and put our covers back on. We're gonna take our threshold, if you look on the bottom we're gonna have these clips that are gonna line up with the oblong holes in the bumper here. Just get it lined up and make sure everything's good and we can press it back down into place, making sure all the clips engage.And just want to make sure you pull the weather stripping back out so it folds on top of the threshold here. Then we can put the floor covering back in place as well. Put this torch bolt back in place, then we can snap our fender liner cover on the outside back in place as well. Line up the clips, push them back into place. Then you pull back the liner and reinstall those three torch bolts that we're behind the liner here.Now you're gonna want to pull this section down just a bit so we can reattach that wire. Once we have it attached, we're gonna run it behind the hitch here and then clip it the rest of the way in place. Now because of the hitch being in the way, we may not be able to get it in the clips or get it in all the clips just because of the excess slack that we're gonna have to have to clear the hitch here.Go ahead and replace those four torch bolts at the bottom of our bumper here. You may need to push the heat shield towards it or push the fascia towards it to line up those holes. And that'll finish up our look at the Curt class three custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number C13331 on our 2018 Audi Q5.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Jean P.

What is the advantage of the Curt vs the Draw-tite version? I realize that the bumper beam doesn't need to be reinstalled on the Draw-Tite version...I'm I correct? Do you ship in Canada? If yes, provide details please Tks

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Victoria B.

The Curt and Draw Tite trailer hitches for the 2018 Audi Q5 are very similar. The biggest difference I notice between the two is the reinstallation of the bumper beam, as you pointed out. The Draw-Tite hitch does not allow for reinstallation of the beam, where the Curt hitch does. Depending on your preference, this could go either way as a pro or a con. We do ship to Canada. I have linked our Shipping information page for you to check out the most up-to-date information on Canadian Shipments.

Terry G.

I have a 2018 Audi Q5 which has backup sensors and a camera. I want to add a trailer hitch so I can use a bike rack for travelling with my bike. Is there a hitch and accesories I can buy that is compatible with my vehicle which will allow me to to back up with bikes loaded and without the backup sensors slamming on the brakes

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

It's my understanding that you should be able to disable the backup sensors when you do have the bikes loaded to avoid that scenario. For a trailer hitch I recommend going with the Draw-Tite # 76183 .

Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.