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Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 BMW 3 Series

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2018 BMW 3 Series

Today on our 2018 BMW 3 Series we're going to be taking a look at, and showing you how to install the Curt Class I Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C11367. So, here's what our hitch looks like once we have it installed. The cross tube is going to be completely hidden behind the bumper, and all we're going to see is the receiver tube sticking out, giving it a really nice look on the back of our BMW. It's going to offer us an inch and a quarter by inch in a quarter receiver tube opening, which is going to be great for bike racks and some smaller cargo carriers. The way we're going to mount any of our accessories is through the hitch pin hole here on the side, and it is going to accept standard half inch pin and clip, and while these are not included in the kit you can pick them up here at, along with locking devices to keep your accessories secure.Our safety chain connection points are going to be a loop style and we're going to have plenty of room to get most sized hooks on or off. Curt does recommend using a safety strap when carrying any non-trailer loads, such as as bike rack or a cargo carrier.

As far as the weight capacity goes, our hitch is going to have a 200 pound tongue weight, which is the maximum download force at the receiver tube, along with 2000 pound gross trailer rate rating, which is the amount it can pull, including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. I'd like to give you a few measurements that's going to help you out when you're looking at accessories for your hitch.From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of the bumper is right about three and a half inches. That measurement is going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have enough room and that they're not going to come in contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be right about 12 inches. At that height I would definitely recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a raised shank to give us a little bit more ground clearance.

Now, that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin installation we're going to want to open up our trunk, because we're going to have to remove our fascia, and we're going to have to remove our tail lights in order to get to them. The top corner of the cover here on the inside of the trunk pan, we're going to have this plastic push pin fastener. We'll grab a flathead screwdriver and we're going to unthread it, we can pull it the rest of the way out. Now, we can grab the top of the cover and pull it out of the way and set it aside. Behind the cover, we're going to have two nuts that are holding our tail light assembly in place.

We'll grab a 10 millimeter socket, then right below the tail light we're going to have another one that's going into the bottom of the fascia here. We'll pull that one out as well. You're going to want to grab your tail light, work it lose a little bit, but you want to pull straight back as much as you can without going to the side. There's going to be some alignment pins that are going to be in there and you don't want them to break.We can come to the back of the tail light, we'll unclip the wiring, and there's going to be a small tab that's on the harness itself, we'll push in on that tab and pull the plug out, and set the assembly aside where it won't get damaged. We'll do that whole process over on the other side as well.

After we move to our rear wheel well, right behind our rear tire we're going to have three fasteners. We'll have this one that's going to be towards the inside, there's also going to be one that's going to be behind the tire, but all these fasteners are going to be an eight millimeter. You want to grab an eight millimeter socket and we can pull those out. Once we have those fasteners removed from the wheel well liner, we're going to pull the liner back, and if we look right where our fender is going to meet the fascia, there's going to be a bolt going up, vertically, that we're going to have to take out. You're going to want to grab a T20 torques bit, and we can pull that bolt out. It is a pretty tight fit so you may want to grab an extension or a long bit so you can get a better swing on it.We're going to take out all the fasteners, and the one at the top of the wheel well, just like here, on the other side. Now, at the bottom of the rear bumper here, we're going to have three bolts that are holding it in place, so we'll take a 10 millimeter socket and pull those out. Now, on each side we're going have these splash shields that we're going to have to remove as well. We're going to have several bolts along the outside edge. Take an eight millimeter socket and pull those out. Then towards the inside we're going to have a plastic nut holding it, we use a 10 millimeter socket to pull that out. With all those removed, we'll pull the splash shield out, and we'll remove the other side as well. On the drivers side, our splash shield is going to have some wiring attached to it, so before you pull it too far you're going to want to take a trim panel tool and pop that clip out that way we don't damage the wire. Then we can set our panel aside.You're going to want to grab an extra set of hands so we can pull the fascia off. We'll start at the corner by the wheel well, and we're going to grab the fascia and start peeling it away, working our way towards the center. Now, you want to double check that there's no electrical connections back there, but ours doesn't have any so we're going to sit our fascia aside where it won't get damaged. Behind the fascia, we're going to have this plastic piece that's going to have a lot of wires and sensors on it. We can either unclip all the wires and disconnect them, or if we come to these plastic fasteners, we pull down. It will unlock that clip. We'll just go around doing that to all of them, and then we can let that panel rest to where it's going to be out of the way so we can access to our bumper beam itself.Now, our bumper beam is going to be held in on two places on each side. We're going to have a nut on the bottom, and a nut on the top. We'll grab an 18 millimeter socket and we'll pull those out. With all the nuts removed, we're going to grab our bumper beam, have a lift up slightly and pull it out of the way. Now, we can grab our hitch and we're going to slide our hitch over the same studs that our bumper beam was being held in by. Just want to watch and make sure you're not pinching any wires when you put it in. Then we're going to grab our bumper beam and sandwich our hitch between the bumper beam and the body, then we'll take our factory nuts and get them started by hand, that way it will hold everything in place. With our bumper loosely in place, we'll go ahead and put our panel with our sensors back in, you just want to push them in until all those clips lock into place.We'll come back with that same 18 millimeter socket and snug up our bolts. I'm going to come back with a torque wrench and that same socket and torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. With our hitch in place, we can go ahead and put our fascia back on. However, if you're going to be doing wiring, I would suggest doing it at the same time, because we're going to have a lot of room to route everything and get to our connectors for our tail light wiring. We're going to go ahead and do that now, before we put our fascia back on. That will finish up your look at the Curt Class I Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C11367 on our 2018 BMW 3 Series.

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