Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Chevrolet Equinox

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Chevrolet Equinox

Today on our 2018 Chevrolet Equinox, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class 2 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 36642. Here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. The cross tube is going to be mostly hidden up under the bumper and we're mainly going to see the receiver tube. This hitch is going to be great if you're mainly concerned with putting a bike rack or a cargo carrier, since it is a Class 2 hitch, it's going to give you that 1 1/4 by 1 1/4 receiver tube opening, and it does have that reinforced collar, giving it a nice finished look. Our hitch is going to use the standard 1/2 inch pin and clip. It's not included but you can pick one up on our website using part number PC2. Now, as far as the safety chain loops are concerned, it's going to be a rolled steel, stock style welded underneath our receiver tube, and as you can see, we're not going to have any trouble getting most size hooks on or off.

Our hitch is going to feature a 350 pound tongue weight, which is going to be perfect for all your Class 2 accessories like a bike rack or a cargo carrier. Our hitch is also going to feature a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight, which is great for light duty towing. I'd like to give you a few measurements to help you when deciding for accessories for your new hitch such as a bike rack or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of the bumper is 6 inches. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube is 11 inches. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how we got it installed. First step in our installation is we're going to need to lower our exhaust.

Now before we let it go down, we're going to need to find an attachment point underneath our bumper here. On each side we're going to have a fastener that's holding our fascia to a support beam behind it. We're going to need to remove that fastener on each side. I'm going to be using a T15 torques bit to remove it, and the one on the passenger's side as well. I'm going to take a strap to support my exhaust so once we let it down, it doesn't fall down all the way. If we look up underneath our bumper, our muffler hanger is going to be attached to our bumper beam.

We're going to need to remove the bolts, the nuts are welded in, so we're going to need to come to the back side, and we'll be using a 15 millimeter ratchet wrench to remove those bolts. We're going to remove the other bolts as well. With both bolts removed, we're going to move our hanger here and we're going to slide it off of the muffler. We can sit this aside for right now. We're going to repeat the same thing on the passenger side as well. If we come directly in front of our muffler, in between our two tires we're going to find our muffler hanger.

I'm going to take a little bit of spray lubricant and this is going to help it get off the rubber, and then we can let our exhaust down. Now, one at a time on each side, if we come to our fascia and slightly pull away, we'll be able to fish out our exhaust hanger, that way we can lower our muffler down. If we come to our frame, we're going to notice that we're going to have several holes in the bottom. The large hole in the center area here is going to be our access hole to feed our hardware into place. To help us get it there, I'm going to take my pole wire and I'm going to put a small bend in it, just like that, and I'm going to come to my very forward most hole, right behind my access hole, and I'm going to take the coiled end and feed it in, and then have it drop back down through my access hole. I'm going to put a small kink in there again, just to keep it in place. Now, I'm going to take my spacer block, that's provided in our kit, I'm going to go over the coils and feed it into place. Once I have the block in place, I'm going to take my 7/16 carriage bolt and I'm going to thread it onto the end of my fish wire. Now I can feed my spacer block through the hole, making sure it gets all the way in there. Now I can take my carriage bolt, feed it in the hole as well and then use my pull wire to drop my fastener down. We're going to repeat that process for the hole in front of our access hole, as well as the one at the very, very back of our vehicle. Now that we have all of our hardware in place, we're going to move to the passenger side and do the same thing. We're going to have our access hole right here with one hole in front of it and two behind it. Now I just want to mention, you want to be extra careful and also keep in mind that we may need to relocate this wire that's attached to the frame. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to put our hitch in place, and we're going to make sure our fish wires are going through the appropriate holes on our hitch. We're going to raise it up and make sure that our pull wires and bolts come through the holes on our hitch. We can go ahead and pull our fish wires off of our bolts and we're going to get ready to install a conical tooth washer, making sure that the teeth are facing the hitch, and that's going to be followed up by a 7/16 nut. We're going to leave this in there hand tight for now. We're going to get one nut on each side so the hitch can support itself, so I can come back and put the rest of my hardware in place. A tip to get your hardware in place is if you have your conical tooth washer, you can use it to push against the bolt to trap it in place so you can put the nut on without having to worry about pushing the bolt into the frame. With our hitch in place, I'm going to use an 11/16 inch socket. I'm going to snug up all my hardware. We're going to repeat that for the remaining hardware in the passenger side as well. I'm going to come back and again, using an 11/16 socket, I'm going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. We're going to repeat that for all the remaining hardware. Now we're to need to put our muffler back in place. Now again, one at a time, we're going to pull our fascia down so we can get our muffler back into place, and then we can reinstall our hangers. We can take our bracket with our rubber isolator on it, slide it back onto our muffler. If you're having a little bit of difficulties sliding it back on, you may want to take a little bit of penetrating oil and spray it on there, and it'll slide on a little bit easier. We can line up our bracket. Then, we can grab our hardware and put it back in place. We'll repeat the same thing on the passenger side as well. We can finally remove the strap. Finally, we can reinstall the screws that we took out of our support. That will finish up our look at the Draw-Tite, Class 2 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 36642, on our 2018 Chevrolet Equinox. .

Questions and Comments about this Video

Susan S.

will a class 2 draw tight hitch fit a 2018 chevy equanox deisel

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

Yes! The Draw-Tite trailer hitch with a 2" receiver that fits a 2018 Chevy Equinox Diesel is part # 76217 . I have attached a link to the install video that you can check out.

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