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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Toyota Sienna - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Toyota Sienna


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Toyota Sienna, we're going be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class III custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 75237. So here's what our hitch is gonna look like on our Sienna. The crosstube is gonna sit below our bumper, but the main thing we're gonna see is the receiver tube sticking out. It's gonna offer us a two-inch by two-inch opening, which is gonna be great for a wide variety of accessories like ball mounts, bike racks, or even cargo carriers.The way we're gonna mount all of our accessories is through the forward hole here. We're just gonna accept a standard five ace pin and clip. Now, those aren't included in our kit, but you can pick them up here at etrailer.com.

Now that secondary hole towards the back of the receiver tube is gonna be used exclusively for the J-pin stabilization device. Speaker 1: Now, the way that's gonna work is the threaded section is gonna go into the pin hole and come out the other side, and then that J-hook is gonna go into that secondary hole and apply pressure to our accessory using a jam nut. And it's gonna keep down that rattle and play from the accessory moving around on the inside of our receiver tube, and it's also a locking device. So we're also gonna be able to make sure our accessories are nice and secure in the hitch.The safety chain connection points are gonna be a plate style, and we're gonna have plenty of room to get most size hooks on or off. We do have some smaller hooks.

Keep in mind that the flange on the outside is a little bit larger, so you may want to come straight in to connect those. And you'll notice that the opening is gonna be slightly offset from the hitch pin hole, which is gonna make it a lot easier to get those hooks in place without worrying about interference with a pin and clip or a locking device. Speaker 1: Off the left side or the driver's side of the receiver tube, we're gonna have this plate welded onto the crosstube here where we can mount any of our electrical accessories like a four pole flat or a seven way. That way our connector will be ready for us when we're ready to tow. As far as weight capacity goes, our hitch is gonna have a 675 pound tongue weight, which is the maximum downward force at the receiver tube.

It's also gonna have a 4,500 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount it can pull with the trailer and everything we have loaded on it.Now, it's also rated for use with weight distribution systems, which is gonna be a separate component that we're gonna mount onto our trailer. That's gonna keep the tongue weight the same, but it's gonna bump our gross trailer weight rating up to 5,000 pounds. Speaker 1: And with all those numbers in mind, I always recommend that you double check your Sienna's owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight. I'd like to give you a few measurements, and these are gonna help you out when deciding for accessories for your new hitch, such as a ball mount, a bike rack, or a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper, it's gonna be right about six and a half inches.

That measurement is gonna come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories. Make sure you have adequate clearance so that it doesn't come in contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's right about 11 and a half inches. With that measurement, I would definitely recommend a raised shank on a bike rack or a cargo carrier to give you that added ground clearance. But that measurement also is gonna come in handy to find the appropriate riser drop for a ball mount to match up to your trailer.Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, we're gonna have to remove this underbody trim panel. Now, along the outside edge here, we're gonna have several bolts that are holding it in, so we're gonna want to grab a 10 millimeter socket and pull those out Speaker 1: Towards the front of our van, we're gonna have pushpins going along the edge, again. So we're just gonna take a flathead screwdriver, and you notice that it has a little white section in the middle. We're gonna want to come underneath the pushpin and pop that white center section out. That'll take some of the tension off of the clip, and we come underneath the outer portion and pull the rest of it out. So we're gonna want to pull all of them out going along the edge on this panel.Now, towards the outer edge, we're also gonna have this plastic clip here. We're just gonna push up on the panel. We can actually unthread these by hand, just gonna loosely thread in this little plastic retainer underneath. So if you can, you're gonna want to try to unthread it by pulling down on that at the same time because if we push up too much on that pushpin and it'll just lock it back in place. Also helps if you can kind of get your hand under there, and grab yourself a large Philips screwdriver, and just begin to loosen it up while you're still pulling down. It'll unlock, and we're gonna have a total of four of them, one on each side of our panel, and then two at the very back of our panel. Speaker 1: The we pull the panel down, and we'll set it aside. With the panel out of the way, we come to right where our tailpipe is right behind our passenger rear tire. We're gonna have our exhaust hanger here. Now, I'm gonna to spray a little bit of spray lubricant on the hanger. This is gonna make it easier because our goal here is to slide this rubber isolator off of the hanger, so that we can have our exhaust hang down a little bit. Now, it's a good idea to go ahead and get a strap of some kind. That way the exhaust doesn't come down too far. We just want to find a solid point to secure it to, and we can always adjust the strap to let it down as much as we need to.So I'm just gonna take a pry bar, and use the hanger to pray against and just push that rubber isolator back until I can get it off that post. Speaker 1: If you find that you don't have enough room to work with, we can pull down on the tailpipe to give us a little bit more. But you can also come back to where our muffler is in front of our rear tires, and we're gonna have two more hangers there that are holding it in place. Again, you just want to make sure you have that strap up so the exhaust doesn't hang down too far. But I think we'll have plenty of room without removing these hangers.So now on east side of our frame, we're gonna have these little stickers and plugs that are on the bottom. We're gonna want to pull all those out, and just take a flathead screwdriver, a utility knife, just about anything really just to start scraping those off. We're gonna peel the whole sticker off, and then I'll expose the weld nut inside the frame. So we'll go ahead and pull all the stickers off on both sides of our frame. Speaker 1: Now, even though the weld nuts we're covered up with stickers, there shouldn't be any rust or debris in there. But it's not a bad idea to take one of the bolts in our kit, and we're gonna make sure that we can easily thread them in by hand. And we're not gonna have any problems when we go to put our hitch up. I just want to run it in, a few threads by hand, and do that for all the weld nuts in the frame. And since it'll be easier to see, we'll go ahead and go over the combination of hardware that we're gonna be using.So we're gonna have our hex bolts, followed by a lock washer, followed by a flat Washer, and that's gonna be going into the three weld nuts on each side of the frame. Now with an extra set of hands, we're gonna lift our hitch, and we're just gonna go over the exhaust. We're gonna lift it up, we're gonna line up the holes with the weld nuts in the frame, and we're gonna make sure we can get at least one bolt in on each side. We don't have to worry about the hitch falling down, and it can support itself. With all the bolts loosely in place, I'm just gonna kind of push my exhaust to the side, and come back with a 19 millimeter socket and snug up all the hardware. Speaker 1: So now I'm gonna come back with that same 19 millimeter socket and a torque wrench, and I'm gonna torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. You just want to make sure you repeat that for all the remaining hardware. Now, we can get ready to put our exhaust back up, so let's take a little bit more spray lubricant and spray that rubber isolator down just make it a little bit easier to get it back on the hanger.So we just kind of push back on that rubber isolator. Pull the exhaust out of the way so it kind of clears it. You should be able to just lift up with a little bit of prying, and slide it back into place. Now, if you're having trouble, you can get a small screwdriver and put it into the isolator to help guide everything in. Then we can loosen and remove the strap we had supporting the exhaust.For our underbody trim panel, we can reinstall it. However, we are gonna have to trim it in order to get back in place. And the rough area that we're gonna be trimming, if we come to the outer mounting hole, we come straight down right to this ridge and go straight across and up to this other mounting hole, and this entire back panel will be removed. So per the request of the customer, we're gonna go ahead and leave this panel off. That way we don't have all of this access that we need to cut off anyway. And that'll finish up your look at the Draw-Tite Class III custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 75237, on our 2018 Toyota Sienna.


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