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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Audi Q5

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How to Install a Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Audi Q5


Rob: Rob here at etrailer.com, and today you're going to be taking a look at the Draw-tite class three custom fit trailer hitch receiver on our 2019 Audi Q5. Now here's what our hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. It's going to have a really clean factory appearance to it. That's because the cross tube is going to be completely hidden behind the bumper, and all we're going to see is the receiver tube sticking out right at the bottom here. Our hitch is a class three hitch, means it's going to give us the two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, and it's going to have the widest variety of options that are going to be available. If we want to take some bikes with us on a trip, we can put a bike rack in here, or if we need to make some room inside of our Audi, we can put a cargo carrier in here.It gets more room for passengers and pets.

Or we can put a ball mount in here and tow a trailer. Now regardless of what we're going to be using the hitch for, we're going to be mounting all of our accessories to the hitch pin hole here on the side. Our hitch is going to accept a standard five ace pin and clip. Now these are not included with our kit, but you can find them here at etrailer.com. Now you may be wondering what the secondary hole towards the receiver tube opening is, and that's going to be exclusively for the J pin stabilization device.

The way this is going to work is we'll take the threaded end, we're going to go through our hitch pin hole, and then that hook here is going to go into the secondary hole. The nut is going to draw the hook in the receiver tube and it's going to apply pressure to our accessories.That's going to cut down on a lot of that rattling and shaking noise that we get in the receiver tube and our J pin is also a locking device so it's going to keep all our accessories secure. Now this is sold separately and you can find it here at etrailer.com. Now if you're going to be towing a trailer, obviously you need a spot to hook your safety chains. Now ours are going to be a loop style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube, and you can see we have plenty of room to get most size hooks on or off.

Whenever you're looking for a hitch for your Q5, you want to make sure it's up to the task, regardless of how we're going to be using it. So the weight ratings on our hitch, we're going to have a 750 pound tongue weight. That's the maximum downward force to the end of the receiver tube.That's going to be great for some of those really larger bike racks that carry up to four or five bikes, or really maximizing the capacity of the cargo carrier, making sure we can fully use the full weight of it. Now if you do plan on towing a trailer, our gross trailer weight rating is going to be 5,000 pounds. That's how much our hitch can pull, but that does include the trailer and everything we have loaded on it.

You do want to double check your Audi owner's manual because you don't want to exceed any of the manufacturer's recommended weights. Now one question we do get a lot about our Q5 is that after we have the hitch installed, is my lift gate sensors still going to work Well it is, but obviously we're not going to be able to put our foot right by the hitch because it's going to be blocking it, but if we come to the side we'll have plenty of room for the lift gate to still work.I'd like to give you a few measurements and these are going to help you whenever you're looking for accessories for your new hitch. From the center of the hitch pin hold to the outermost edge of the bumper is right about three inches. That measurement is going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories, to make sure you have enough room and they're not going to contact the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, you're right about 15 and a half inches. At that height, I would definitely recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a raised shank. That way we can get a little bit more ground clearance out of it, but that measurement is also going to come in handy when you're looking for a ball mount so you can find the appropriate riser drop to match up to your trailer. But now that we've seen what our hitch looks like, gone over some of the features, let's put it on together.To begin our installation, we want to come to the very back of our Q5 and at the very bottom, we're going to have several fasteners that are running across the edge here. Want to grab a T25 Torx bit, and we're going to pull all these screws out.We're going to want to move into our rear wheel wall, right behind the rear tire at the very bottom corner, right where the fender well tapers in and meets the liner here. We're going to have a bolt. Again, we're going to use a T25 Torx bit, and we'll pull that out. Now, I've moved up more towards behind the tire area. We're going to have two plastic nuts that we're going to have to remove as well. So we'll grab a 10 millimeter socket and we'll pull those out.We're going to repeat that on the other side of our car as well. Now, if we look at the side right by the wheel well, we're going to have this trim piece that's going to run all the way around the arch of the wheel wall. We need to pull that piece loose and away from the car, so we're going to start at the very bottom, and I suggest using a plastic trim panel tool because that way we won't scratch the paint. You're just going to grab the end of it, then you want to pry away from the car, while pulling at the same time. We're going to work our way, going all the way to our fender is going to meet the facia. We'll just pull, releasing the clips, and you want to get it at least to that corner piece so we can access this bolt behind it. Take that T25 Torx bit, and pull that bolt out. We'll do the same thing on the other side.If we come to where the wheel well liner is, we want to actually pull it back some, just push it out of the way for now. If we look behind it right along the edge, we're going to have three more fasteners that we're going to have to pull out. So we'll grab that T25 Torx bit and pull the three screws out going along the edge here.We'll move to the other side and pull the three out over there as well. So we're going to go ahead and open up our rear hatch now and we're going to have a fastener right at the bottom, towards the opening, this round one. We have one on each end. We want to grab a t20 Torx bit and we'll pull those two fasteners out.They're just little plastic fasteners, so you do want to make sure you're using the correct size bit to get them out because we don't want to mar up the plastic on there. We want to take the floor cover and we're going to pull that out and set it aside for right now. Next we're going to remove this scuff panel at the very back of our hatch. Take a trim panel tool, you want to come underneath, you're going to want to pull upward. You hear that click, that's the clips releasing. We just want to work our way across towards the center until we can get the whole panel out.Once you have all the clips removed, go and pull it aside and set it aside where it won't get damaged. Now underneath our scuff panel here, if we come to the inside vertical part right here at the back, we're going to have two rubber plugs on each side of the latch, and we want to go to the outer most plug. It's going to be the larger one, and we're gonna want to pull this out. Just grab it with your hand. If you're having trouble, you can use a screwdriver. We just need to get this rubber plug out of there so we can get access behind it.I pulled this one out and we're going to have another one on the other side of our latch in the same location. Inside each one of those openings we're going to have a 10 millimeter nut that we're going to have to remove. So you want to grab yourself an extension, as well as a 10 millimeter socket. I do recommend using a deep socket. It'll give you a little bit more reach and it'll just be a little bit easier to get out. Now another thing is that since it's recessed inside the body, you want to be extremely careful not to drop that nut. So what I suggest is loosening it up and then we can grab a magnet, reach in and grab the nut so we don't have to worry about dropping it.Now that we have this one removed, we're going to remove the other one on the other side. We're going to move over to the driver's side on the inside of our hatch here, and we're going to have this interior panel that we're going to have to pull out. So we want to go to this top knob here and turn it counterclockwise. When you pull the panel out, it'll give us plenty of access to all the wiring and everything else back here.So if we move to the inside where fuses and cables are here in the corner, we're going to have two plugs on the bottom that we're going to have to disconnect. The black one here will have two tabs on the outside. I just want to grab them. We're going to squeeze the tabs and we'll lift up and disconnect the plug. Then the brown one's going to have a very small tab that's going to be on the outside. We want to squeeze that and then lift up so we can pull those two plugs out. We want to come to the very back where we have this installation at. We're going to move that out of the way and there's going to be another hole just like the one we had towards the center. It's going to have another 10 millimeter nut in there. So again, we'll grab our socket extension and we'll pull that out.We're going to have another hole just like this on the passenger side, except we're not gonna have any wiring that we're going to have to disconnect. I just want to pull the panel off and pull the nut off the other side. At this point, it's a good idea to grab yourself an extra set of hands. We're going to start removing the facia, and when it come to where the fender meets the facia, we'll grab it and we're going to pull away from the car. That's going to undo these clips. Just want to make sure you go all the way. We're just going to start working our way across till we get to the center.Once we have it pulled away, you want to double check to make sure there's no connectors back here that we need to disconnect. If there are, we'll disconnect those before we set our facia aside. Now on the driver's side where our wires are going through the grommet, we actually want to pull the grommet out and then gently pull those two wires that we disconnected from the inside so we can get the facia and set it aside. Now that we have our facia removed, it'll expose our crash bumper or the bumper beam. We need to remove that, and on each side we're going to have four 16 millimeter bolts going around the edge. So you want to grab yourself a 16 millimeter socket and pull each one of those out. Now I do recommend leaving at least one in just with a couple threads as the last bolt. That way you can make sure you have a firm grip on it and it doesn't fall off the car.Once you have the last bolt removed, we'll take our bumper beam, remove it, and we'll set it aside for right now. Before we put our hitch up, we want to take some silicone and put a bead around the opening right here. Make sure you put a nice little bead going around, that'll seal everything up. Make sure that there's no fumes or anything else going to the inside of our Audi. Now if you need to grab some silicone, you can find it here etrailer.com. So now that we have some on this side, we're going to repeat that on the other side.So we want to grab our hitch, and on each end plate we're going to have a round hole and several oblong ones. We'll going to make sure that round hole goes onto the stud that's on our car. So we'll lift it up and it still will help hold everything in place. We just want to lift it up slightly and take the factory bolts. Just want to get one started on each side. That way the hitch will support itself and we can work on putting the rest of the hardware in place. Grab our 16 millimeter socket and snug up all our hardware.I'm going to come back with a torque wrench and I'm going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. Just want to make sure you repeat that for any remaining hardware that you have.Now if we come to our facia, our instructions are going to tell us that we're going to have to trim a little bit. We're going to come right to the center in between these two mounting points and we're going to be trimming this area right here. However, you'll notice that we're going to have this cable running across. You do not want to damage this, because this is actually for the lift gate sensor, so if you need to, you just grab the wire and we're going to pull it out of the clips. Make sure it won't get damaged, just move it out of the way so we can make our cuts. However, we have found there's a lot of customers who are saying they can get their facia back on without any trimming. So before you cut, it's a good idea to see if you can put the facia back on. Because if it fits and the hitch goes through the hole, I would rather not cut if I don't have to.One thing I will let you know is that when you go to put your facia on, since we aren't cutting this, you will have to rotate the facia around the hitch and maybe push a little bit to go around everything. But as you can see there's plenty of room to get it in there. So now we can just work on getting all the fasteners as well as all the electrical connectors plugged back in.Whenever we're going to put the nuts back in on those recessed holes on the bumper, what I like to do is I'll take a little piece of paper towel, put it on the bottom or the head of the nut, and then I'll push it into my socket. That'll it prevent it from and make it a lot easier for us to get it in place. Since it's recessed in there a little bit hard to see.We'll use that same method using that piece of paper towel so we can get the rest of them in as well.Once you have all your panels back in place, that'll finish up your installation and look at the Draw-tite class three custom fit trailer hitch receiver on our 2019 Audi Q5.


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