bing tracking image

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Colorado

content loading

Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Chevrolet Colorado


Hi there, Colorado owners. Today on your 2020 Chevrolet Colorado, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Draw-Tite's Class III 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver.This is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. The receiver is going to be visible as well as the crosstube here towards the middle. But it does tuck up pretty nicely and it does kind of mimic your factory support beam here on the bottom, so it doesn't really detract from the looks too much. It's a Class III 2" x 2" receiver, so it's going to be great for all of your towing needs, whether you're going to be using it for accessories, such as a bike rack or cargo carrier, or if you need to get some work done and throw a ball mount in the back and haul off a trailer.It uses a 5/8" hitch pin and clip. One doesn't come included with the hitch, but you can pick one at etrailer.com here.

You'll also notice that just to the rear of our hitch pin hole, there's another smaller hole. This hole here is for a J-pin, which acts similarly as your hitch pin. It still goes through and keeps whatever you have in there secured. But a small portion of it will loop around and go into the small hole here, and you will tighten down a nut, which will press against whatever's in your receiver, pulling that J-pin tight acting as an anti-rattle device. We have large plate-style safety chain loops here on the bottom that should be able to accommodate just about every shape, size, and style of safety chain.Our hitch features an 800 pound tongue weight, which is the force going down on top of the receiver.

That's going to be more than enough for a cargo carrier fully loaded up to the maximum, or if you have a large trailer that you wanted to haul behind, you don't have to worry about the tongue weight, what it is, either. It also features a 6,000 pound gross towing capacity, which is how much that it can pull behind it. With 6,000 pounds, you'd easily be able to put a car hauler here on the back or a medium-size work duty trailer.This hitch is also rated for use with a weight distribution system, and when using a weight distribution system, it increases the gross towing capacity to 8,000 pounds. You get an extra couple thousand pounds there, so if you we're kind of pushing your hitch to the limits, you need that extra little bit. That's a great opportunity to increase the towing capacity as well as increase the ride quality and handling of your vehicle because a weight distribution system's going to take some of the weight that you've got here on the back of the vehicle from your trailer and help redistribute it to the front axle, leveling your vehicle back out, restoring lost handling and braking performance due to the geometry of your suspension being off from being dropped on the back end.

It also realigns your headlights on the road, making it easier to drive at night. As always, I recommend you verify in your vehicle's owner's manual and ensure you don't exceed any of its towing capacities.Now I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper, it measures about 3". This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube, it measures 18-1/2".

This is important when determining if you need a drop or rise or raised shank in any of her accessories. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's go over the installation together so you can have the confidence to do it at home.We'll begin our installation underneath the vehicle by removing the bumper as well as the bumper support beam that's located behind it. We'll start removing it by taking out the side bolts. If we come in on the side here, we'll have two bolts that we'll have on each side. We're going to take those out. What I like to do with these is after I get them out on the one side, I like to take one of the bolts and just put it back in with a turn or so. So that way the structure can't fall, because we still got something in it, but that way we can easily remove it. Trick I like to use is an extension with inaudible 00:03:42 socket on it to make my ratchet longer. If you're worried about your ratchet breaking, you may want to use a cheater bar instead.So now that we've got this one out, I'm going to go ahead and use this one as the one I want to re-install. Again, it's just a turn or two like that just to ensure nothing's going to fall when we take out the rest of our bolts. So we're going to do the same thing on the other side. We'll have one bolt just like this with a couple turns in, and we're going to completely remove the other one. Make sure that's done on both sides.Now depending on the options you have on your vehicle, you will have some electrical connectors underneath. We want to make sure we disconnect all of those. We've got some that come down through the hole here that hold in the clips here at the bottom onto our bumper. You can see here that our whole bumper's loose now we've got those bolts out that we took loose. So we just want to make sure we disconnect these. There is a wire located here. This is for your camera feed, and you'll see the release tab located right there. We'll press in on the release tab and then you can pull out on the other side. Then we'll move over to the other connector here. This one has a red locking tab, so you will need to use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to release the lock. Once you've pushed the lock out of the way, we can press in on the release tab and pull the connector out.And then if we go down to our driver side frame rail, you're going to see an electrical connector located here. This is the main harness connector for our bumper. So in most events, regardless of your options, you're probably going to need to disconnect this one. We've removed the lock tab just like we did on the smaller connector towards the center. We'll press in on the release tab and then we can disconnect the connector. You will also need to use your flat-bladed screwdriver to pop out any tabs holding it into the frame rail. We can also see there's a connector located on top here, so need to reach up and unplug that as well. To make it easier to disconnect this connector, you can also stick your flat-bladed screwdriver underneath and pop it up out of the frame. That way you can pull it off to the side here, and it's just like our video feed camera connector. There is a release tab and then pull out the silver end on the other side.Now that we've got everything prepared for our bumper beam to come loose, the only thing that's really holding it in there is it will hit the support beam here when you try to take it off. So we're going to loosen these bolts up. We don't want to take them completely out because the whole support beam will drop down, so we're going to do just like we did with the side ones. We're going to take one completely out, and we're using a 21mm socket just like we did for our side bolts. We're going to thread it back in just a few turns to support it. Then we'll take out the other bolt on this side right here, and then we're going to prepare the other side in the same way where we've got one bolt, just a few threads in there.We'll then come to the center of the vehicle, and there are two bolts here where our support bracket attaches to a portion of our spare tire bracket. We're going to take both of those out using a 13mm socket. Make sure you save these bolts because we will be reinstalling them later. We can now start removing the bumper. The side bolts that we had barely threaded in, we're going to take both of those out. Make sure to support your bumper when you're doing this. We can then slide the bumper beam back. Once we've gotten that lifted up out of the way, we'll just set it aside where it won't get damaged. We can then do the same thing with our support beam. The two bolts that we had barely in there, we'll finish taking those out on each side. And then we can set this beam aside. We won't be reinstalling this one.We're going to prepare our hardware for our hitch. Take each bolt that comes in the kit, place on a lock washer, followed by a flat washer. You will have some extra flat washers in the kit. Those are for when we go to reinstall the bumper, so it's okay that you have extra. We'll be using those later. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to lift our hitch into position, lining up the holes in the hitch with the factory holes in our frame. We'll then use the hardware that we prepared to go through the hitch and thread those directly into the factory weld nuts located on our vehicle frame. Once you get one started on each side, the hitch will hold itself up, making it easier to install the rest of your hardware. Now that we've got our hitch up and all the bolts started, before we tighten them down, we want to go ahead and leave them loose because it'll make getting our bumper reinstalled a lot easier if we leave them loose.So now we're just going to reinstall that whole bumper in reverse order of how we removed it. Just before we do that, we need to take up the space that is going to be missing from our support beam because it used to go up on this side. So the extra washers that came in our kit, we're just going to tape them to the side of the frame over the factory weld nuts, so we're taking up that extra gap. Now once you've got a taped on there, what I recommend you do is take a flat-bladed screwdriver or a Phillips, really just anything, and just knock out the center of it. That'll make it easier when you go to put your bolt back in. Now with an extra set of hands, we'll get our bumper back into position.We're now here on the support beam that we had removed. We need to take the clips off here. So we'll use our flat-bladed screwdriver, going to pry outward a little bit until it releases. Then we can just slide it off. This is the nut for the hardware that we're going to re-install. So go ahead and pop out the other one and then these can be slid onto the bracket that's here for our spare tire. Just want to make sure you put the flat edge facing down towards the ground.We can then raise our hitch up and reinstall the bolts that we had removed right into those clip-on nuts that we put in place. We're just going to snug these up just a little bit just to keep them in place, and then we can go back and tighten down our hardware. We're going to use a 22mm socket for the new hardware that we have here on the bottom, and again, our old hardware was a 21 millimeter. And then we can go back and torque all of our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. Don't forget to plug in any electrical connections that you may have. That completes our installation of Draw-Tite's Class III 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Chevrolet Colorado.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.