Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2007 Mazda 5

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2007 Mazda 5


Today on our 2007 Mazda 5, we'll be installing the Takonsha T-One vehicle wiring harness, with four-pole flat trailer connector, part number 118520. All right, with our wiring all installed we're ready to hook up to our trailer. We just need to open up our hatch, open our jack cover door, here, on the driver's side, and grab our wiring from it's stored location. Pull it on out. Set it to the side of our hatch latch right here. Close our hatchback on up over it. Now, as you can see, has adequate length to get down right next to our hitch, so we're ready to hook up to our trailer. Just take the dust cover off, plug up our connection from our trailer.

This four-pole flat will give us all the lighting functions that are required by law in order to safely tow our trailer. In order to store this, we just put the protective dust cover back up, so you don't have to worry about any dirt or debris getting inside the connection possibly causing a short. Open our hatch back up. Store our wiring back inside the jack compartment where it belongs. Reinstall our door.

As you can see, we have complete and full access to our trunk. We don't have to worry about the wires getting snagged or loading in and out cargo. That's a nice feature about it. It also helps keep it out of the elements by being inside the vehicle. All right, here's what our wiring kit comes with. We have our wiring harness itself.

We have our T-connectors. This side here is for our driver's side, this will give us our turn signal, and tail light. From this side, over here, on our passenger side, we'll get our brake lights, and our passenger side turn signal. They go into this module box here, which will isolate our vehicle's lighting system from our trailer's lighting system. That way if our trailer has a short, we don't have to worry about our expensive vehicle's lighting circuitry being damaged. A couple of zip ties here to secure wire along our vehicle.

Some double sided tape to secure our module box to the vehicle. Now that we've gone over what's included, we'll show you how to it installed. All right, at the back of the vehicle, let's start opening our hatch. We'll remove our cargo cover here. Take out our cargo tray. Set that aside. Remove this panel here on our driver's side, set it out of the way. We gain access to our wiring harness up here. Remove our panel here on the passenger side too. There's two plastic push-pins, one in each side that holds our threshold in place. Pop out the center, and the whole section comes out. Do the same on both. Then we can grab our threshold, pull up on it, set it aside. Behind our threshold, we'll find two more plastic push-pins on each panel. Pop those guys out two. On our cargo hook here, fold it down, pop open the latch, get both of these opened up real quick. Remove the bolts. Set the latches aside. Now, right here, the top of the black panel, we have a Phillips screw, we'll move this. We have the same on the other side, so I'll make sure we do that one as well. Now, we'll grab our panel and pull it out a little bit. I'll have access to our lighting connector on the inside. If you want to gain a little bit more room, we can pop these covers off here. I'll remove this bolt. Okay, we reach behind here, we have a white connector, right here. This powers our lights on our driver's side. Push on this tab, and we'll separate our connector. We'll take our connector with the yellow wire for our driver's side, plug the male in the female end. I'll plug the female end into the male end over here. Once they clip in place, you know you have a secure connection. Now, our ground wire here, we're going to use the provided self taping screw to secure it to the vehicle's chassis. If you look right here, we already have an existing ground right where we need to go, that uses a bolt. To avoid drilling another hole in our vehicle, we'll just remove the bolt, 10 mm. Take our ground wire here, stick it onto our bolt, just like that. We'll reinstall the bolt. Tighten it back down. We'll have our four-pole flat run out of this panel to that compartment area. Take our green and red wire, right up behind the panel. We'll come over to our passenger side. Here we see our similar connector that we had on the driver's side. Push on this tab. Some of these tabs are kind of stiff, you got to press down on them with some force. Got it separated, now your connections again, just like on the other side, the male plug goes to the female plug. Now, we'll take our double sided tape, peel back off one end. We'll apply it to the bottom of our module here. Press it down nice and firm. Peel off the other end, and we'll stick it up to the bottom of this panel here. This will keep it up and out of the way of our jack, right here, in case we ever need to access it, and away from our wire connector here for our 12-volt outlet in the back. Now, we'll take our red wire that comes from our module, this is our power wire, strip off a little bit more insulation, that will be plenty. Take one of our yellow butt connectors, stick it on the wire, and we'll crimp it down into place. Okay, make sure that's nice and secure, which it is. Okay, now we'll take one end of our black power wire, route it up behind this panel. Once you have it routed up there, strip off some insulation from it, and we will attach it on the other end of our butt connector that we just installed, and we'll crimp that down. Make sure that one's secure as well, and it is. Now, even though this connection's inside the vehicle, I still like to wrap the butt connector up with some electrical tape, just so I don't have to worry about any dirt, debris, or moisture potentially contaminating it, and causing a short. You can use your tire iron, that comes with the vehicle, in order to remove this, or if you have a small impact like this, you can use a 21 mm socket, just to speed it up a little bit. Set it aside. Now, in order to get our power wire outside the vehicle, we need to find a place to go through. Right here, through this grommet, right directly in front of where our spare tire's bolted down with, you can just push this grommet through and it will come out the bottom. We'll drop it down through that hole. We'll make sure it sits nice and flush of our wheel well here. Right there will be plenty of slack in it. Now, we'll take our grommet, a pair of side cutters here, and we'll cut a slit in our grommet. Push the grommet back into place. Now, we'll take some silicone sealant and seal that cut that we've made to keep any exhaust gases, or any moisture from entering our vehicle. I like to press it down a little bit, to make sure it gets in there nice and evenly. All right, with that dry, we'll take our spare tire, set it back in position. Okay, our spare tire's secure, it's not going to rattle around any, on us. Now, at this point, we can start putting back together our panels. Make sure the clip's fully engaged on it. Now, our weather stripping in this vehicle is designed to go over our panels, so we'll kind of peel this back a little bit. Okay, we'll put our 10 mm in here, on an extension. We'll get this started by hand, once it goes in a few turns, we can tighten it down. Okay, we'll reinstall our push-pin fastener here. Push it in place until it locks. Get it started by hand, a few turns, tighten it down. Close the cover back on over. Flip the latch back up. Just fold the dust cover back up on over it here. Stick it inside our jack storage compartment, so it's nice and out of the way. We'll reinstall our door here for that, so that's nice and concealed. Now, with our driver's side put back together, we can put back our passenger side now. Now we'll take our center piece here, and make sure our wires are nice and secure behind it. Push it down into place. Do the same thing with the weather stripping again. All right, with our side panels reinstalled, we'll take our tool tray here, slide it back in position. Drop it on down. We can cover that back up. Then we have full access to our trunk. When we need to use our wires, they're just right there. We can pull them on out. You can see where our power wire came out through our spare tire well, now, underneath the vehicle. Now we need to route the other end of our wire to the front of the vehicle, making sure we avoid any moving parts, such as the suspension, or any sources of heat, such as the exhaust. I'm going to go ahead and do that now, once I have it done, I'll show you how I did it. All right, so our power wire exited our spare tire well, it went up and over the rear sub frame here. Went off to the passenger side a little bit. Have it secured to the side of our fuel tank strap here with a zip tie. Went along the side of the fuel tank, secured up here to the parking brake cable with another zip tie. This part of the parking brake cable doesn't move, so we don't need to worry about that. Went up, underneath this panel, all the way up, comes out right here. We went over this front sub frame brace, here and here. Over our sub frame. Over our rack and pinion, here. We have it secured to our firewall, up to this AC drip line, we'll put another zip tie. Now we can lower our vehicle on down and we'll make the rest of our wiring connections underneath the hood. We'll just pull the wire straight up here. Nice hole right here, on the fire wall, we can run a zip tie through. Make sure we have it plenty taught here, because the exhaust is on the back side of the engine here, so we want to keep it high and tight away from that. Okay. We'll put one more zip tie to this hose, right here, on the back side of the engine, right next to the cover for our computer. It's right next to our battery, cut off our access zip tie, here. Now, we'll cut off our access wire right here. Positive battery terminal is right here, so we just cut off enough to make our connection. Strip off some of the wire here, attach a butt connector to it, crimp it on down. Take our fuse holder here, we'll just go right in the middle, cut the loop. Strip off the insulation of both ends. Take our ring terminal, put it on one end, crimp it down. The other end will go into our butt connector that we just attached to the black wire. We'll wrap our connection up with some electrical tape to help protect it. We can now attach our ring terminal to our positive battery post. To do that, we can just remove this nut right here, off our fuse holder. We'll just stick a 12 mm socket on it. We'll hold our wires down, tight to our terminal, so that we don't have our computer reset itself. Now, at this point, I like to point there's no fuse in our fuse holder, so we're safe to make this connection. We'll place it on down to the terminal here. Make it sure it's nice and secure, and it is. We'll take our provided inaudible 00:15:00 up fuse, insert it into the fuse holder, and we'll close our dust cap on up. All right, we have a four-pole flat trailer tester plugged in. If you want to purchase one of these, it's part number I26 on our website. We'll start by turning our headlights on. This will provide a taillight, or running light signal to our trailer. As you can see, that's working. Do a left turn signal now. That's working as well. Do a right turn signal. You can see that's working. Now I'll step on the brakes. As you can see, that's working too. Now that we've verified all of our lighting functions are working properly, we're ready to hook up to our trailer, and get on the road. That completes our installation of the Takonsha T-one vehicle wiring harness, part number 118520 on our 2007 Mazda 5.


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Test Fit:
Rick A
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