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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2008 Jeep Liberty

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How to Install the Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2008 Jeep Liberty


Today in our 2008 Jeep Liberty, we'll be installing the CURT T-connector Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connection, part number C56183. To begin our install, we'll first open up the rear hatch. There are two screws for each assembly. We'll go ahead and remove the screws and then pop the assembly out of its position being careful not to break the alignment tabs underneath. Then, we'll go ahead and press on the wiring connector and remove it from the taillight socket, setting the taillight aside. Now with the driver side done, I'll go ahead and repeat the same process on the passenger side. Next, we'll take our new CURT wiring harness and feed the green wire connector down between the bumper cover and body or sheet metal of the vehicle.

Next, we'll repeat the same process with the 4-pole connection. Now, we can take the brown, red, yellow wire connector, plug directly into the manufacturer's wiring. Then, we'll take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal, peel it away from the harness and run it over behind the taillight assembly where the sheet metal doubles up and secure it with a self-tapping screw, creating the ground for our new 4-pole connection and converter box. Next, we'll need to mount the converter box. To mount the converter box, we're looking for a clean, flat surface, preferably a sheet metal. To mount it, we'll use the two-way adhesive provided with our install kit.

Peel away one side of the adhesive and attach it to the converter box onthe second side and attach it here below the taillight assembly. Now we can take the extra length of the black wire provided with the install kit and the black wire from our converter box, strip back the wires and use the yellow butt connector to secure the two together. Once they're secured, we'll then go ahead and wrap them up with some black electrical tape to help keep away dust, dirt, debris or moisture. Then, we'll go ahead and secure our wiring here behind the taillight assembly. Take the other end of our T-connector, plug it back in to the taillight and then, re-secure the taillight into its position. Next, we get underneath the vehicle and start routing the 4-pole connection over to the center of the vehicle and ultimately to the hitch and we'll secure it with the black zip ties as necessary. Then, we'll run the green wire connector over to the passenger side and up behind the passenger side taillight assembly.

Once again, securing the wire as necessary. With both wires run and secured, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the zip tires. Next, we move to the passenger side taillight assembly, secure our green wire and then, connect to the manufacturer's wiring. Take the other end of the T-connector and once again, plug in to the back of the taillight assembly. Now, we can go ahead and re-install the passenger side taillight assembly. With that re-secured, we'll go ahead and move back underneath the vehicle and start running our power wire.

Additionally, as we route the wire, we use the assistance of a pole wire which can be a inaudible 00:03:09 piece of wire or in this case, we're going to use a piece of air tubing to route through the frame channel. Starting at one of the open holes in the frame channel, we'll feed our pole wire back to the rear of the vehicle where we could pull it out of the frame, and attach our power wire to the pole wire. Keep in mind when running any of your wires, stay away from any moving components, the steeringwheel suspension or excessive heats such as the exhaust. Then, we'll pull the power wire through the frame up to the access hole. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process bringing our power wire to the back and bottom of the engine compartment. We'llultimately need to route up through the engine bay into our battery. To assist in keeping our wire away from the exhaust, we're going to use a Loom Clamp, part number A0500 and a self-tapping screw. We'll go ahead and secure it here to the frame and then route our power wire up to the engine bay. Now that we've got the power wire routed to the top of the engine bay, we'll go ahead and secure itwith a zip tie and route it over to the battery. Wecan go ahead and cut off the excess from our power wire and strip it back. Next, we'll go ahead and prepare our in-line fuse holder. Strip back both ends of the fuse holder, attaching a ring terminal to one side and a butt connector to the other. We'll then take that butt connector and attach it to our power wire we just ran. Now that that's secured, we'll go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape and route the ring terminal over to the positive battery post where we can move the nut off the positive battery post terminal, install the ring terminal and then re-secure the nut. With our ring terminal now secured, we'll go ahead and install the fuse into the fuse holder and install the cap for the fuse holder. We'll finish securing our wire as necessary and then cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up our install loop. Now that they've been routed and connected, we're ready to go ahead and test our new 4-pole connector. Putting our ground clamp on the white wire terminal and testing the brown wire terminal, will be our running light circuit. Yellow light terminal will be the left turn, left breaking signals, and the green wire terminal will be the right turn signal, right breaking. Now that we've confirmed our new 4-pole connector works, we're ready to hit the road. That does it for the install of the CURT T-connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Connection, part number C56183 on our 2008 Jeep Liberty.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Charlie

Is there one that doesnt require to run wire to battery???

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Rachael H.

Yes, if your Liberty was equipped with an OEM 7-way the # 118381 T-One Wiring Harness does not require routing a power wire to the battery. It just plugs in to the port on the vehicle. However, if you Liberty was not equipped with an OEM wiring harness, then the ones that we currently have do require a power wire to be routed to the vehicle battery.