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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2008 Land Rover Range Rover Sport

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2008 Land Rover Range Rover Sport

Today our 2008 Land Rover Range Rover Sport we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Tekonsha ZCI circuit protected vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector and install kit. Part number 119250KIT. This is what your harness is going to look like. As you can see they're not pinched into any other wires. They still slide freely over top. It's going to pick up a signal with the magnetic strips that are in there through induction.

You want to make sure you put this foam around the outside. It's going to keep out any metal particles that might get onto the magnets, causing any interference. This is going to be a self-sustaining system. It's not going to tie into your factory circuit. It's not going to allow any back feeding from your trailer because it's got it's own 12 volt power source that we're going to run to the front of the vehicle. All the circuitry is built into this module light that's here.

It's sealed so it's going to be weather tight. One of the nice features about this system is you can actually take this back off and place it on another vehicle should you sell the vehicle that you have currently. It does not leave any damage to the wire. It just lays in there and snaps down. The magnets are going to work in a conductive manner to interface it with your factory wiring and not have to pierce the wires, or splice anything. Now that we've gone over some features we're going to show you how to install it. This is what your kit's going to consist of: your module it's going to be powered with our 12 volt wire to run to the front of the vehicle to the battery, our fuse, our four pole flat with our protective cover, and the inductive pickups. We're going to remove the taillights.

We'll take our plastic tool and we're going to insert it to the side of the taillight here. We'll pry it back and release our light. We'll press in on this tab here that will release our plug. We'll set our light aside. We'll need to cut the tape back on our wiring so we can gain aces to our wires.

Carefully slice it back about halfway so we can get access to all of the wire. Now we're going to go ahead and test for our running light circuit. It's going to be this one right here, our red with the black tracer. We can take our new kit and we're going to find the one that's marked with the taillight. We'll take this clip, snap it up. We're going to take our wire. We're going to lay it in there, snap that into position. You can see it's not piercing the wire, it will still slide back and forth freely on there. We'll take these supplied pieces of foam tape, peel off the protective backing. We're going to wrap that around to help protect our circuit. I'll just wrap it all the way around the plug. We can go on and we're going to test for our stop light. That's going to be our green with a purple tracer. We'll take the one that's marked stop and do the same thing. Lay it into position here, snap it over. Now we can wrap this one as well. The last one we'll test for is going to be our left turn signal. That's going to be this one right here. It's going to be the green wire with the red tracer. For that we're going to put our left turn signal. Lay it in, snap the cover over. We can wrap that with our foam as well. Now we're going to need to run our four pole flat wiring down to the bottom of the vehicle. We're also going to need to get our right turn signal wired down as well. We're going to place that down inside and let it come out the bottom also. We're going to need to get our power wire down. In this case I'm going to take a piece of airline tubing and I'm going to run it down inside, let it come out the bottom. Then we'll attach our wire. We're going to just slide it inside the tubing, then we'll just pull it back up. The black wire that comes out of our module are going to come pre-stripped. We're going to attach the yellow butt connector supplied with our kit. We'll take that black wire we just ran up from the bottom side, strip it back, place it in the other side, crimp that into place. We'll just wrap up our connection to keep corrosion out of there. The other wire we're going to have on there is going to be our ground wire. We're going to take the supplied self-tapping screw. We're going to screw it into the metal there. Some sheet metal to give a nice ground. Now we're going to use some two-sided tape to attach the module to the body of the vehicle. We're going to clean it off with a little bit of rubbing alcohol and we'll clean off the area we're going to mount it to. We're just going to stick it down here and put it to this flat surface. You want to make sure you mat it down low enough that it's not going to interfere with the light when it goes back in. We'll take our two-sided tape and we'll peel off the outside part, place it on the back. We're going to tuck these down inside here and secure our box. Now we can reinstall our left taillight. Snap it back into position, you'll hear it click. Give it a tug, make sure it's nice and tight. We're going to slip it back into position. Now we'll put our two phillips screws back in. Now we can remove our passenger side taillight. Take our plastic trim tool, slip it behind this light as well. We're going to pry it out. We'll unplug it pushing down the center, sliding back the cover. We're going to need to strip this one back as well. We're going to cut the tape so we can get access to our wires. Now we're going to need to run the wiring underneath our vehicle and come up on this side for our right turn signal. We went ahead and tied our wires up, our four pole wire and our wire that goes to the right-hand turn signal. Went up over the frame rail, zip tied it all along, come out here with our four flat. We've zip tied the excess to the backside of our hitch. We went across, zip tying it as we went and used our piece of tubing to pull our inductor up to the top and we zip tied it to the factory wiring. Now we'll be able to test and install that. You want to try to stay as far away from the exhaust as you can. Now we need to test for our right turn signal. It's going to be this bottom one here, going to be white with a green tracer. To that one we're going to install our inductive end. Now we'll need to put our piece of foam around the outside. You want to make sure you put these on because this is going to keep all the metal shavings, and things that could get inside our inductive field, away from it so our lights work properly. Now we'll be able to set our factory taillight back into place. Take our factory plug, slip it back into place here. Hear it click, give it a tug, and you're ready to set it back into place. I went ahead and ran our wiring for our 12 volt. I just zip tied it along top of the frame rail here. Tying it to some wire loom. Some wire is from the factory went up over top of our rear cross member. I crossed the across our differential, tying it up against the bottom of the body. I went outside our frame rail and followed our metal lines to the front of the vehicle. When you're running your wire you want to make sure you're staying away from heat sources and moving objects, and anything that's going to be sharp. You don't want to pierce this wire because it's 12 volts. I went up over the frame rail in the front, followed our brake line, went up behind some heat shields and came out next to our battery box, and zip tied it to this main harness, cut a little notch in this rubber grommet here. To this 12 volt wire we're going to add a fuse. I'm going to go ahead and cut this off some, so we have enough to run it down inside. We're going to strip it back, about 1/4 inch on both sides. Now to the short end I'm going to add a yellow butt connector. To the longer end we're going to put a ring terminal. It comes with two ring terminals. We're going to use the smaller of the two, since our battery bolt's going to be that big. We're going to need to cut this wire back. Strip this side back. We'll place it into the other side of the yellow butt connector, crimp it into place, give it the tug test. Now it'll be ready to set it onto the battery here. We're going to take a 10 millimeter socket, loosen this up. We'll place it underneath there and we'll resecure it. We're going to go ahead and electrical tape up this connection to keep out any corrosion. Before we put our fuse we're going to need to learn the module. We'll leave out the fuse and we'll start the vehicle. After we start the vehicle make sure all of your signals are off, your lights, turn signals, and brakes. Then we'll put our fuse in and we'll go through the system, operating everything. It'll learn itself and we can test our lights. Install our supplied 15 amp fuse. Press it down nice and tight. We'll install our weather tight cap. We're going to tuck it down in here, keep it nice and safe, and we can reinstall our battery cover. There we go. Now we can test our system. We're going to run each circuit for at least five seconds to let it learn. We'll hold the brake down. We'll give it five seconds. Now we can give it our taillights, and our left turn, and our right turn. Now we've programmed it, we can go ahead and test it. Let's go with our running light circuit, good. Now our left turn, our right turn, and our brake. Perfect. Should it not work properly you can start the relearn process all over again by taking out the fuse. Then you start up the car, making sure all accessories are off. You're going to run through it again for five seconds on each accessory and it should relearn itself. That's going to do it for our look at and install for the Tekonsha ZCI circuit protected vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector and install kit. Part number 119250KIT on our 2008 Land Rover Range Rover sport.

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