bing tracking image

Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2008 Mazda Tribute

content loading

Customers compare 118551 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2008 Mazda Tribute


Today on our 2008 Mazda Tribute, we will be installing the tow-ready T-One vehicle wiring harness with 4-pole flat trailer connector. It is part number 118551. In order to begin your installation, we will need to gain access to the rear tailgate. Now we will want to remove our tail light assemblies on either side using a Phillips head screwdriver. I will grab our tail light assembly. Let's pull towards us. Squeeze on the tab and remove our electrical connectors going to our bulbs.

We will set our tail lights aside so we don't damage them. We will repeat the process on the other side. On the driver side of our vehicle, we will drop the green wire, which will go for our passenger side, down through the opening in the tail light assembly area and out the bottom. We will feed as much wire through as possible. We will do the same thing with our four pole flat trailer connector. Now we will take the existing vehicle wiring harness, the one to the tail light on the driver side, and connect it to the male end of the bundle of white wire that goes to the yellow wire. Push it in.

Four clicks into place. Now taking a towel and soapy water, we need to clean off a spot on the inside of the bumper cover of any dirt and debris so our control module will have a good spot to stick to. Might want to use a couple of towels to dry it off. Now we will take our control module in our hand, remove the cover over the double-sided tape, and we will stick it onto the spot we've cleaned off. Now we will take our quarter inch self-tapping screw, stick it over the white wire with the eyelet terminal. That's our ground wire. We will go to a good, solid metal spot in the body of the car. Now we will take one end of the black wire that came with our kit and drop it down through the hole in the bumper again.

Once we have the incoming out through the bottom of the bumper, we will just pull the slack out of it, leaving us with the other end we're going to connect to our control module. We will strip off about a quarter inch of the wire going to our control module, and we will strip off a little bit extra on our wire from the control module itself, just so we can get a good connection. Twist some wires together a little bit tighter, take our included yellow butt connector, stick it onto the control module wire, we can crimp it down, and the end of the wire we dropped down that we will route to the front of the vehicle we stripped back previously. Stick it in the butt connector, crimp it down as well. It's always good practice to wrap any electrical connection you make with electrical tape just to help keep moisture and dirt and debris out of there. With all the connections made our driver's side of the vehicle, we can reinstall our tail light assembly now, reconnecting the reverse light and then the tail lightbulb itself. We will align the two guide pins with their respective holes, push it into place until it clicks in and we will reinstall our screws. Now it's time to route our wires over to the passenger side of the vehicle.

To do that, we can go behind the bumper cover, right up behind these tabs, which hold the bumper cover in place, working our way over with our green wire connectors. Once we've reached the passenger side of our vehicle with the green wire and the connectors that will go to our tail light harness, we can pull the slack out of it and pull it up from the tail light assembly. While we're underneath our bumper, at the same time as we moved the wires over to the passenger side, it's a good idea to grab our four-way flat and route it in the same direction toward the center of our trailer hitch so we have easy access to it when we're hooking up a trailer. Any excess slack we have in our trailer connector we can just put a zip tie around it and tuck it up behind the bumper cover and trim off the excess of our zip tie. Now with our wire routed, we will take our connectors that went to the passenger side, stick them up in the bottom of the bumper, pull them up through our tail light assembly, just like so. We can take the factory end of our tail light connector, plug in to the male end of our tow harness so it clicks. With our excess wire that we have, in order to make it not dangle below the car, we can fold it back on to each other and secure it with a zip tie. Take the tail light, push the connector on until it clicks, reconnect our reverse light, reinsert the guide pins into corresponding holes on the side, push the assembly in, and reinstall our screws like so. I went ahead and started routing our wire to the front of the vehicle. That's going to connect to the battery. I went over the spot in this hitch here, up and over the subframe, securing it to a brake line here with a zip tie. Go ahead and cut the end of the zip ties off now. Secured it to this wire loom here with another zip tie, and I went over the filler neck in the gas tank and around the side of it, secured it to this fuel line, went over this wire harness here, over this one, followed the brake and fuel lines, zip tying along the way. Then I got to our firewall here and secured it again with another zip tie to the brake and fuel lines. I'm going to take a piece of airline tubing here. If you don't have anything like this, just something somewhat rigid that you can feed down towards the bottom of the car from the engine bay will help. You can unbend a coat hanger or something like that will work just fine. I'm going to route under this snorkel in the air box for the air filter, go behind the master cylinder, behind the ADS control module, feed it to the bottom of the car. There's the end of our pull wire. I'm going to push it back a little bit and go back around this fuel line here just to keep it closer to the firewall of the vehicle and out the way of any moving parts or anything that has heat going through it, like the exhaust, things of that nature. We will take the end of our wire and we will tape it to the end of our airline tubing, which we are using as our pull wire, just like so. Now we can pull our wire from on top of the engine on up and connect it to the battery. With our wire pulled all the way up, pull the slack out of it and we will secure it up to this wiring harness here just so it doesn't dangle anywhere. Cut the excess of our zip tie off. Now we will take our fuse holder here. You may notice how it has a complete circle of wire. We will take our wire cutters and cut it once in the middle, we will strip back both ends about a quarter inch or so with the wire strippers, twist our wires together, install a yellow butt connector on one end, crimp it into place with our crimpers, take the yellow ring terminal on the other end and we will crimp that into place. Now we will measure out about to where our fuse holder will end up, take a little bit more than what we will actually need, and we will cut off the excess wire that we ran from the back of the vehicle and remove that. Take our wire strippers again and take about a quarter inch off, twist the wires together, insert into the other end of the butt connector on our fuse holder, crimp it into place, and we will cover our connection with electrical tape. With our connection securely wrapped, we can move on to making our connection to the battery. Now we take a ring terminal and stick it over this extra stud that is sticking up off our battery terminal. Put a washer over it to help secure it. I found a nut laying around that happened to be the same thread pitch as the stud on the battery terminal. Screw it down into place and tighten it up. We can install our included 15-amp fuse into the fuse holder. Put our protective dust cap on over it, reinstall the cover over the battery terminal. Now we can test our functions. In order to test this, I have a four-pole flat trailer connector tester here. It is part number I26 on our website in case you want to purchase one. Just insert this like so and we can test our functions. With our headlights on on our vehicle, we have functioning trailer tail lights. Now we will have our assistant do the left turn signal. Okay, that works. Now we will have our assistant do the right. All right. Now we will have our assistant step on the brakes. So you can see both the left and the right turned on at the same time, which means we have working brake lights, turn signals and our tail lights work. That completes the installation of our tow-ready T-One vehicle wiring harness with 4-pole flat trailer connector on our 2008 Mazda Tribute. It is part number 118551.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Patrick B
Test Fit:
Patrick B
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.