Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2011 Chevrolet Equinox

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox


Today on our 2011 Chevrolet Equinox, we're going to be installing the Tow Ready T-One vehicle wiring harness with the 4-pole flat trailer connector, part number is 118494. Here's what our wiring kit is going to look like. You can see we've got a yellow and brown wire. It's going over to the driver side. They got the T-connector, you see we've got an in-line connector right here, will separate the light, plug it in either side of the factory connection. Do that on both sides. The green one, single green wire that goes over to the passenger side, and this is what we're after. Of course, that's the 4-pole wiring.

It's going to give us controls to our trailer, cargo carrier, everywhere else other lights that we want to operate. The other connections we're going to be making is at a positive source of power or at the battery with our 12-volt wire. That's going to be connected with the butt terminal to the red wire here, and we'll ground out our white wire using the small provided self-tapping screw. We're going to have the butt connectors, the ring terminal, the fuse we need, that's going to go on our fuse holder. It's going to protect the vehicle circuit and also our power circuit here, and the double sided tape to get it connected. Some wire ties to help us tidy up their look. Now that we've gone over where everything is going to go, let's start here at the driver side tail light. We'll be removing the cap screws here and then the 10 mm bolts located underneath.

Just pry those caps up with our screwdriver, then you'll see the two screws there we'll be removing up. Then, we're going to just pull out slightly and also back on our light the pressure clip here and also here will separate. We'll just separate the factory plug there. We'll set our tail light right there in the batch. Now, we'll take the yellow and brown side just like we talked about, connected into our factory harness. Make sure it's nice and snug. Then, we'll bring our module box up.

We're going to be mounting it, kind of right up here in this location. Just want to make sure it clears the housing for our tail light and then we don't have any interference issues, so we'll just kind of mark the limbs up there. Line up our pins as we kind of hold that in place and just see how it looks and behind there. That should be a suitable location for it right there. Use our screw, kind of mark that top whole location. Now, we'll use the provided alcohol pad and just kind of clean up the area below that whole location, and also clean up the back side of our box.

Give those a second to evaporate, then we'll use a self-tapping screw. We'll get a hole started. We're going to take the foam tape that's provided. Place it right on the back of our box. Pull the other side off. Now, this self-tapping screw we had here at the shop to use. That's one is not provided. The tape offers sufficient holding power, just using the foam tape in there, but there's a hole there, there's room behind there, so why not secure it. We just want to press really firmly. Make sure it gets seated in there properly. Now, we're going to guide the green wire right down through the opening. Seat it through bumper cover, and we'll do that with our 4-pole wire as well. Then, we'll find those right here below the tail light. It's pretty open down through there, so shouldn't be that hard for you to grab. Then, we can kind of see what we've got. Still got a connector ground wire. Good location will be just right below the box there. We've got a location. Then, we use the provided self-tapper, make a small pilot hole, and then secure our ground. Everything is nice and snug. Before we put our tail light back in place, we're going to connect our black wire onto our red wire. We need to use one of the provided butt connectors, connect it right on into the red wire there. Pull on it, make sure it's connected. Then, we'll take some slack out of the black wire. Now, we'll guide the black wire kind of both from the bottom up behind our bumper. Just pull it out. I've left just enough slack to where it'll kind of rest on the ground there for us. We'll strip the end of that one and connect it right there. Nice and secure, we'll guide that down. Kind of gather up our wire there. We can get it as tidy as you want it. Doesn't have to be super neat though, and put a little zip tie around there just to help hold everything. Now, we'll take the other end of our T-connector, plug it right into the back of the factory housing. Just like before, you'll hear little click and then you give it a pull to make sure it's connected in there. We'll just guide the light back in place. Push it in so it clips, and then use our two screws to go back in the original locations here. We'll just replace our two caps. We'll set to the passenger side. Now over here, we're going to do same thing we did there on the driver side. Now on this side, we're going to take a little piece of airline tubings what we've got to deal with, but may be a wire coat hanger or something of that nature. You just kind of poke it down there where you can get a hold up from the bottom, and we'll just let that sit and then head underneath the vehicle. Now, we're going to start run in the green wire and our 4-pole wire to their respective areas. There's a nice, little tab there that holds the rear bumper from moving. We'll kind of tuck him up behind that. Then, of course we're also going to be able to use our hitch here to get a few zip ties around. Now, the zip ties that are provided are just to touch short for going around this round hitch, so if you anticipate doing that, you need a couple just little bit longer. We'll use that with this kind of our anchor point for our 4-pole. It kind of went up the green wire up there to the couple around inaudible 00:09:57. It's going to keep them up on the top side of course, so that kind have the side and less likely to get caught and hung up on anything. Now, in this application, the green wire running to the passenger side simply isn't long enough, so we're going to make a space in it. Just add in a length of the wire. We'll use that same connection, this is standard butt connector. These are each inaudible 00:10:52 style. There's a nice, good seal. It's right inaudible 00:11:12 quick and easy, we've got our length added in there. Now, we're going to pull down the little airline that we put down. We'll just use a little piece of tape to hold that together. Now that we've got that connected over there to our hose, let's just tidy up underneath here before we go, and then we'll trim off the excess. Now, we'll be ready to pull it through. Now, we'll just pull on our air tube bearing. Just kind of guide it our coat hanger or whatever you're using, and we'll be able to pull it right up here where we need it. Connect our connector into the factory harness and right into the back of our light, and slide it back in place. Let's put a little caps back in place. Now, we'll start taking the black wire up towards the front of the vehicle. We want to be careful to avoid any pinch areas, any heat zones, anything like that, and when possible, we'll use any of our already existing areas to kind of hold it in place for us. Now, if we're running our line, we're going to use in our case a piece of airline tubing, but you can use a coat hanger anything like that, just like we did at the rear. We kind of go down right here beside the master cylinder and break this too as we're going to be coming up the brake lines as we run forward. We'll just poke that down there where we can find it once we get to the bottom. Now, we'll slide our 12-volt wire, in our case right into our air tube or if you're using a coat hanger whatever you decide it on. Just get it attached there. Now, let's head up flap. Pull it on through making sure that we take up all of our slack when we do. Now, I'll just pull that up from the bottom. Now, as you can see, our wire is going to come right along with it. Take a look underneath just to make sure you don't have any loops hanging down. We'll just kind of route our wire. It's all along with those other hoses that we've got back there. Right over here, we'll be connecting underneath our box lid. You'll squeeze these tabs together on each side. Just lift up. We're going to be connecting right underneath there. We'll treat this just like a nut. Put a wrench on the end and unscrew it. Let's get our ring terminal and butt connector put into place in our fuse holder first. Cut out off whatever extra wire that we have. Strip that in. Put a butt connector on the end there. Now, we'll add our fuse holder. Now, we'll add the longer end right into the butt connector. That was on our 12-volt wire. From the other end, we'll slide our ring terminal in this way. Then, we'll use a 10 mm socket and back off the stud. Ring terminal will go on. This we covered back over. You should add clips in if you want to. You can trim the edge of that box out, but as you can see, it'll lock in and just kind of indent out a little bit. Now, we're going to have just a little bit of excess wire there. We're just going to tuck that away, and we can add our fuse right into our fuse holder. Now, we can go back through, make sure that everything is tidy up underneath our vehicle. Add a zip tie where we need to and also test it to make sure all of our signals are working. Now, we're going to run through a quick test. We'll use a test light. We're going to use the white wire or the bare terminal that sticks out. We'll ground it there and then we'll check our running lights. That should give us a constant signal from the brown wire. This is what we're looking for. Now, our left hand signal should give us an intermittent signal from the yellow wire. Now, our right blinker should give us that same signal from the green wire. Now, for our brakes, we should have the steady signal coming from both the green and the yellow. Perfect. We're ready to hook up whatever we need and hit the road. Now that everything working properly, that's going to complete today's installation of the Tow Ready T-One vehicle wiring harness with the 4-pole flat connector, part number 118494, on our 2011 Chevrolet Equinox. .


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Employee Zack K
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Zack K
Employee Joshua S
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Employee Chris R
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Employee Nicholas E
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Employee Jared G
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Employee Jonathan Y
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