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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2012 Chevrolet Cruze

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2012 Chevrolet Cruze

Today on this 2012 Chevrolet Cruze, we're going to install part number 118508. This is the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with a 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector from TowReady. To start off, we need to get inside the trunk, so we'll go ahead and open the trunk lid, and our wire harness is behind the liners on the inside. We'll go ahead and take the liner from the inside here, and pull it up and out of our way. To loosen this into your panel, it gets overlapped by the threshold, so I have to remove the threshold as well. Looks like there's 2 plastic fasteners that we have to remove.

To remove this rivet, use a flat screwdriver and pull out the center part, and then just go ahead and pull it out. We'll pull this on the door seal away from the threshold as well. This will make it a little bit easier to put back into place when we're done. OK, with steady pressure pulling straight up from the bottom, we should be able to un-snap the threshold. There it goes. Once you get this edge up here, it seems to help put a little pressure there as well.

Now we can go ahead and work with our side panel here. There's 2 more plastic fasteners we have to remove. We're looking at the driver's side. We'll go ahead and remove this hook here, and a small Phillip's screw. Go ahead and manipulate this a little bit, out of our way.

There you go. We have access to our wiring now. We're done with our driver's side, let's go and repeat this same process to get access on the passenger's side. All right just a little pressure to the hook on our passenger side. We can go ahead and start making our first connections. First, we'll work the T connector with the yellow wire.

This will go over to the driver's side. This will be our connection point right here. To take it apart, all we got to do is press down on a small tab. We can show you on a T connector, because it's a copy of it. Just push down that tab right here and you can pull it apart. Sometimes it helps to push in a little bit, and then press the tab. Then our T connectors will T right in. While we're here, let's go ahead and work with our white wire to ring terminal. That's our ground, and will simply attach to the sheet metal right here using the provided self-tacking screw. Now you can attach it to pretty much any sheet metal you want, but if you can find some that's overlapped, that'll give it more material for the screw to attach to. Screw uses a quarter inch nut driver. We'll go ahead and hook up our black wire that comes with the kit to our red wire. We'll strip both ends back, and we'll go ahead and use the yellow butt connector that comes with the kit. We'll go ahead and crimp those 2 together. We need to run up to the front for our 12 volt power supply. If we pull back the liner, we can see a grommet on the driver's side. We can use that to run our wire from the inside to the outside. To run our wire out, we're going to actually drill a hole in our grommet, and then go ahead and push our wire through. We'll go ahead and take up most of the slack, and then pull it out the bottom. It's a mounter module, we'll go ahead and clean up the sheet metal, and then we'll go ahead and use the adhesive that's on the module to attach to the sheet metal. Now we'll go ahead and route our T connector with the green wire over to the passenger's side. We'll make our connection like we did on the driver's side. At this point we can go ahead and reinstall the interior panel. Let's go ahead and put it into place for now. At this point we'll take a few moments to go ahead and secure our wire, make sure it's safe and out of the way. We'll use some zip ties to help hold it in place, then we'll go ahead and cut off the tails as well. With the wire secure, we'll go ahead and reinstall the threshold back into place. While the panel's back into place, we'll go ahead and reinstall the fasteners and tie-down points. Now we can go ahead and reinstall all our interior floor panels. We'll make sure that we keep our 4-pole wire hanging out for now. At this point we'll go ahead and run our wire from the rear to the front to our 12 volt power supply. When we do that, we'll stay away from anything moving, like suspension components, or anything hot, like the exhaust. We'll go ahead and route our wire over the rear suspension first, along the top of the spring, and then we'll go ahead and run it through parts of the frame on the way up to the front. On a place that we don't have much to attach to, we'll go ahead and use some loom clamps to help hold it in place. We'll be using part number A0250. Now to help pull our wire from the bottom to the top, we're using an old piece of airline tubing. This also could be any piece of wire that can hold its shape. We'll go ahead and route it down, and you want to make sure you stay away from anything moving, like the steering components, or anything hot, like the exhaust. With our wire connected, we'll go ahead and pull it back up. Make sure to take up all the slack. Double check to make sure it's not routed around anything you don't want. Then we'll go ahead and route it to our 12 volt power supply on top of the battery. We'll go ahead and zip tie our wire to make sure we take up all the tension, and make sure it stays the way we want it. Let's take the lid off our power supply. We're going to attach to this point right here, which is directly right off the battery. We'll just go ahead and cut it to length. Leave that alone for now, then we'll add a fuse holder to it. Go ahead and cut it in half. Then one half will get the ring terminal, and the other half will get the butt connector. That'll connect it to our black wire. Since this is sitting outside somewhat, we'll go ahead and add some electrical tape to help protect it. We'll go ahead and undo this nut right here using a 13mm socket. We'll go ahead and put a ring terminal over it, put the nut back in place. Go ahead and add a fuse for a fuse holder. We can actually just hide this all inside here, run our wire through this unused spot, and close the lid. It's a good idea to try it with a light tester before you try it on a trailer. We'll take a ground and connect it to the white wire, then we'll check our brown wire with our running light circuit. Next we'll go ahead and do our yellow wire for left turn, and green for right turn. Our brake signal will be a constant signal on the yellow green wires. Looks like everything works. Now we'll go ahead and show you how to use it. When you're not using it, it'll stay underneath your panel, that way it'll protect it from the elements when it's not being used. When we need to use it, we'll go ahead and pull out our slack. Bring it out close to the middle, but not in the center, because you want to stay away from the latch, and shut our hatch on it. If you want, you can go ahead and pull out a little bit more of what you need to match up to your trailer. With that, that'll finish it for the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with a 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118508 from TowReady on our 2012 Chevrolet Cruze Sedan. .

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H

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