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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 Mazda CX-9

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2013 Mazda CX-9


Today in our 2013 Mazda CX-9, we'll be installing the Tow Ready, Custom Fit, Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole connector, Part Number 119147KIT. Now to begin our install, we're first going to go ahead and open up the rear cargo door. Next, I'll go ahead and open up the rear cargo compartment and remove the corner pieces. Then we will remove the two pushpin fasteners that secure the rear cargo compartment To remove these fasteners, we'll take a small, bladed 00:00:32 screwdriver, pry up on the center, and then remove the fastener completely. Now with the fasteners out of the way, go ahead and pull up on the center cargo tray and gently remove it from the vehicle, setting it aside for installation later. Next, for viewing purposes, we'll going to go ahead and remove the L-shaped trim piece here on the driver side.

No, this is not necessary in order to make the install. However, it can make it a little easier to access the grommet. Next, here on the passenger side, taped to the manufacturer's wiring harness is a white 6-pole connector. This is the manufacturer's tow port. Go ahead and use a utility knife and cut it free from the harness. Now we have access to the wiring, we'll go ahead and use our test light by grounding the alligator clamp on one end and probing the connector to locate the correct signals. For this application, the green wire with a black tracer is the driver side turn signal, the green wire with a white tracer is the passenger side turn signal, the light green or olive-colored wire will be the braking circuit, and then the green wire with the yellow tracer will be the running light circuit.

Now with access to our wiring, we're ready to go ahead and start making our connections. Because all our connections will be located at the same area, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the green wire. Next, we're ready to start making our connections. We'll take the quick splice connector, feed over the manufacturer's wire, and then follow it up with the corresponding wire from our tow-ready wiring harness. We'll follow the same pattern as we identified, starting with the driver side turn signal, then the passenger side turn signal, our brake circuit, and then our running lights. Now with all the connections made, I recommend to go ahead and wrap this up with some black electrical tape.

This will help prevent corrosion and keep it clean from dirt, dust, or debris. Next, we'll need to take the white wire with a pre-attached ring terminal. This will be the ground for our converter box. Using a self-tapping 00:02:51 screw, we're going to go ahead and ground it directly to the body or sheet metal of the vehicle. Next, we'll take the black wire from our converter box and attach it to the long length of black wire provided with our install kit so that we can supply power to our new 4-pole harness. To connect the two, we'll use a yellow butt connector provided. After you strip back both wires, install the butt connector and crimp it down.

Once we've made this connection, we'll go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape also. Now with all the wire connections made, we'll go ahead and start securing the wires as we route our power wire over to the manufacturer's grommet towards the driver side. Next, we'll need to mount the converter box. Using the two-way adhesive provided with our install it, we'll peel back one side and adhere it to the converter box, and then adhere the converter box to the vehicle. When adhering to the vehicle, you want to make sure you find a clean, flat surface so you get a good connection. Once you locate the manufacturer's grommet, we'll need to cut a small slice in it to run our power wire outside. We'll go ahead and use our utility knife to cut a small slice, and then take the power wire and feed it through the grommet. We'll pull it out from underneath the vehicle. Now with all the excess wire pulled out, we'll go ahead and finish securing our tow ready wiring harness to the manufacturer's wiring. Now with all our wires routed and secured, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from zip ties to clean up our install look, then we can begin re-installing the interior trim components. Now before we completely reinstall the center cargo tray, we'll need to notch out a section so that we can route our 4-pole harness into the rear cargo area. Removing the access panel for the spare tire crank, we can then take that excess panel and a rotary zip tool and cut out a small section to route the wire through. Now we'll go ahead and take the 4-pole harness, route it through the manufacturer's cut out into the cargo compartment for the spare tire cover, and then install the spare tire cover with our wiring harness. Now we can go ahead and re-install the pushpin fasteners and the interior trim components. Now with everything re-installed, we'll go ahead and pick up our power wire underneath the vehicle and start routing up to the engine compartment. Keep in mind, when routing your wires, stay away from any moving components from 00:05:42 the steering or suspension, or excessive heat such as the exhaust. Note as we route our wire, we'll also be securing with the black zip ties. Note, I'll also partially be removing the under-body trim panel here to help route, assist in routing our wire. Now to assist in routing our wire, we can also use a pull wire, which in this case is a piece of air tubing, or a stiff piece of wire will work also. We'll use this to assist in routing over the fuel tank. Now we're at the engine compartment, we'll go ahead and use our pull wire once again to help route up through the engine bay. Once we get our pull wire to the top of the engine bay, we'll go ahead and move to the top of the engine compartment and pull our pull wire and wire up to the top of the engine bay. Here, we can pull it tight and secure the wire with a black zip tie. Then we'll go ahead and cut off any excess from our power wire as we prepare to add our fuse holder. The fuse holder, we'll go ahead and cut in half and strip back both sides. Then we'll go ahead and add our butt connector to one end and ring terminal to the other. Next, we'll secure it to the black power wire we just ran using the yellow butt connector. Once we make that connection, we'll go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape. Now in this application, the positive battery terminal hold down can be loosened but not removed. We'll go ahead and cut a small opening into our ring terminal, install the ring terminal over the stud and then re-secure it. Once it's re-secured, we'll go ahead and put the cover back over the positive battery post and install our fuse into the fuse holder. We'll put the fuse holder cap on and then secure the fuse holder to the manufacturer's wiring. Now with all our wires routed and secured, we'll go ahead and show you how to test your new 4-pole connector. Taking our test light, put it over the open or bare terminal on our 4-pole connector. Then, testing the first wire which will be the brown wire, will be our running right circuit. The second wire will be the yellow wire which will be the left turn signal, left brake, and the third will be right turn signal, right braking. Now we know our 4-pole harness works, we'll go ahead and show you how to use it. We'll simply take the 4-pole connector, route it out to the rear cargo compartment and out and over the threshold. Be careful, stay away from the rear door latch as pinching it off in the latch can harm the wire, however, the weather 00:09:25 stripping is sticking out that it won't. We'll simply close the rear cargo door on it, then we'll pull out as much as necessary to bring it 00:09:32 down to our inaudible 00:09:33 accessory. That does it for the install of our Tow Ready, Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring, 4-Pole harness, Part Number 119147KIT on our 2013 Mazda CX-9. .


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