Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 Mazda CX-9

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2013 Mazda CX-9

Speaker 1: Today, on our 2013 Mazda CX9, we are going to be taking a look at, I'm going to show you how to install a Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with four pole flat trailer connector, part number 56016.This is what our wiring looks like when it's installed. It's going to give you all the proper lighting functions to safely tow your trainer. It's going to come with an included dust cap that's going to help keep your connections clean from any dirt and debris. The kit is going to come with all the necessary hardware to get it installed. Let's go ahead and take a look at that now.This is what your wiring kit's going to look like when you get it. You're going to use your fuse holder, some black silicone, you're going to get your power wire that's going to run through the back of the vehicle up to the battery.

You're going to get your fuse, a few butt connectors, one thing I do want to mention, I would probably get some heat shrink butt connectors and replace the heat shrink with the ones that are in the kit, because the one that's up by the battery is going to be outside of the vehicle. Heat shrink butt connectors are going to help it keep moisture and stuff out from your connection. You can find these on our website.This is your four pole connection. This is your power wire coming from your module that you'll be connecting the power wired that's going up to your batter. This is your ground wire which will ground it on the body somewhere.

It has to be on the metal. You have your wire that's going to plug directly into your drivers side; existing wire behind your tail lights and then the same thing on you passengers side. Green wire's going to go your passengers side.Let's talk about the box here, for a second. What this box does, it's going to protect your factory wiring in your vehicle from any back feed from the trailer, if your trailer has any wiring issues. Now, with this wiring kit, or this wiring harness here, you're going to get three amps per circuit for your stop and turn signal, and six amps per circuit for your tail lights.

It's giving you a pretty good amount of amperage, so if you have a trailer that may have a few extra lights, this will work fine, making those very visible.One thing I do want to mention is, this wiring kit, in the instructions, it wants you to put it inside the vehicle and run your power wire out. However, our customer today, wants us to put our four pole outside the vehicle, so I'm going to wrap this just a little bit different way. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let me show you how I'm going to do that.First thing we need to do to start our installation, you want to get into the back of your vehicle. We need to take out this center section here, so that we can get to the plug that's behind these panels on both sides. So, we're going to start here in the center.

We'll take a small, flathead screwdriver; we're going to have two push pin fasteners down in the bottom of this here. Just pry out the center and make sure you get the base with it.Then, we'll just lift it out. Just like this and we'll set this aside. Go ahead and pull this panel out and just set it right up here, in that compartment, and we're going to pull this sill panel here off. We're going to have a couple of things we need to remove on both sides of the vehicle. This is going to be the same on both sides. Pull that up, you're going to have a ten millimeter head bolt. Remove that. You have a Phillips screw here and then right down here, take that small, flathead screwdriver and pop this cap up right here. You're going to have another ten millimeter screw. Pull those three out and we should have enough room to pull this out to get to our wiring.Now, we pull our panel out like this and you're going to see a wiring harness like right here. We're going to unplug that. Just like that. We're going to take the side of our wiring harness that has the yellow and red and we're just going to match our plugs up.Like that. Now, we'll plug the other side into here. Just like that. Now, we're going to take a yellow butt connector from our kit. We're going to add on to the black wire that's going from our modular box, and then our black wire, our roll of black wire that we're going to be running up to the front. If the end is not stripped, go ahead and strip it, and you're going to add it to the other end of the butt connector.I'm going to take some black electrical tape and just cover that up. Just to help protect it a little bit better. Next, we're going to mount our modular box. We're going to have some two sided tape in our kit. Pull one side off. Make sure you push down on it good. Right down here, is a good flat spot. Go ahead and stick it there. So, we'll pull off our other side. Press it in there good. The panel will go back in. We'll just take our ground wire, and I'm going to ground it right here. As long as it's on metal, and not on any plastic, it will work. We're going to use a self-tapping screw and a quarter inch socket. The self-tapping screw comes in our kit.Just like that. Now, we can put this panel back in place. Make sure you pull your weather stripping back out. Now, if you notice this large grommet right here, this is where I'm going to put my four pole wiring and my power wire. I'm going to go right through there. So, what I'm going to do, is I'm going to take all of this together, I'm going to zip tie it right to this factory wiring.Then from here, you follow the wiring, it'll run right over the passengers side. We'll just zip tie the green wire to that, and then we're going to plug it in on our passengers side just the way we did on our drivers side.Now, we'll pop this plastic cover off here. Go on and take our four pole in through it. Get that down in there, like that, and we'll just pull our power wire through the same hole. Now, I'm going to take my plastic cover here; I'm going to put a split in it, and I can reinstall this plug.Silicone, and we'll seal up this hole right in the cut. Like that. Now, we can reinstall our covers, floor covers. We're going to do it in reverse order from the way we took it out.Now, I'm going to run my power wire to the front of the vehicle. Let me get it done real quick and I'll show you how I did it. So when we're running a power wire up to the front, we want to make sure we're staying away from anything hot or moving. I ran it right across here. Our spare tire's going to sit up inside of here, so I got enough flex there if I need it. I went over the top here. Then, our brace here. Went around, found the existing wiring, and zip tied it a little bit right here, a couple spots. Went underneath this plastic panel, right up here to the front.I took an airline tube. If you don't a airline tube, you can use anything that has a little bit of stiffness to it; a wire hanger, and feed it down from the top up there. That'll help you get your wire up. Keep it up against the firewall. Since I have an airline tube, I'm just going to push my wire inside of it. Then I will, up top, pull my airline tube, wire will come up with it.Once we pull our wire up, I'm going to take my wire and I'm going to tuck it down underneath of the battery container on this bottom corner here. That way, it doesn't interfere with if our battery ever needs to come out. Then, I'm going to zip tie it right here, to this positive battery cable. That'll keep it tight up against their firewall. We'll take this and we're going to be hooking up to the positive side of our battery, here. Now, I'm going to take my large ring terminal, my butt connector, and then my fuse holder. We're going to put our ring terminal on one side, and our butt connector on the other.What we need to do, is we need to cut our power wire down in size. I'm going to cut it about here. Strip back the end. On the other end of our butt connector. We'll take our heat source and shrink our butt connector.Next, we'll take a ten millimeter wrench and we'll loosen this up here. So, those are not made to come off all the way. What I'm going to do, I'm going to cut a little notch out of this. What I have determined is that the ring terminal that comes in the kit is way too large. Even cutting it, I can't get this squeezed enough to make a good connection behind that nut. So, I'm actually going to change it out for a 3/16th diameter ring terminal. If you don't have one of those, you can find them on our website. Just do this the same way we did it before. Strip back our end here. On there. We'll tighten our nut down. Once you've got it hooked to your battery, you can install your fuse. Then, we can take this, and we can just tuck it right down here.A couple of things that I will advise you to get if you're running your wire outside. That's going to be a short bracket. These are no-drill mounting brackets. A short bracket and then a four pole bracket that looks like this. Your shot bracket's going to come with a clamp like this that's going to clamp around your hitch to hold that, and then this is going to mount to the bottom of it like that.Feed your clamp through the hole in the bracket. We're just going to set it right on the top of the hitch like that. Take a ten millimeter socket and tighten it down.We can cut off this excess. Before we do that, we're going to go ahead and mount our four pole bracket. It's going to come with hardware. Now, we can take our four pole end, put it into our holder like that. Then, we'll take our excess wire and we'll zip tie it right up behind the bumper fascia. You can see there, there's an existing bracket on behind of the fascia that had a hole in it. I had zip tied it right to that.Next, we'll test our wiring using part number I26. Left turn. Right turn. Break lights. Running lights.That'll do it for a look at for an installation of the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with four pole flat trailer connector, part number 56016 on our 2013 Mazda CX9.

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