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Hopkins Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Hopkins Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Today on this 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited we're going to show you the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for towed vehicles, part number HN56200. Now we have our parts laid out before we install. We'll give a quick overview of what goes where. First off, we've got a T connection here. With the yellow wire, that will go behind the driver's side tail light. Take a look at this side here with the green wire.

This is a T connection that goes over to the passenger side. We have this box right here, or module, which contains all the diodes to help protect the vehicle's wiring from input from the towed vehicle, which comes from a 4-pole flat at the end of the wire. We also have a white wire here for a ground. Then for the end of the 4-pole, it has an optional holder right here with the hardware to attach to the bumper, a cap for it as well, a self-tapping screw for the ground, dielectric grease for the connections behind the tail lights, and some zip ties. All right, now to start of our install, we need to go ahead and remove the tail light. To do that, we'll remove these 2 screws.

We'll be using a #2 Phillips screwdriver. Push the light back and forth a little bit to work it loose, and it will come right apart. Now we take apart our light, and we've still got 2 connection points here. We want it sitting right side up. We want to take apart the one on the top.

To take it apart we need to push down this tab right here, and go ahead and pull it apart. Let that sit for now. We'll take our T connector with the yellow wire, and plug those 2 in between. Next, we're going to route our 4-pole wire harness inside the body work and out through an opening you can see down towards the bottom. If you look down towards center, up towards the front of the vehicle, you should be able to see some daylight poking through. Let's take our 4-pole wire harness and route it through the opening.

Now the bottom of the body work here is just really a simple foam insert, so if you knock it around, it's just fine. You can go ahead and just push it back up into place. We'll go ahead and pull our wire on through. All right, next we'll go ahead and take our T connector with the green wire and we will route it through the same opening that we did with our 4-pole wire harness. All right, let's take a moment to go ahead and put the rest of our wiring inside the pocket here. I like to zip tie the little module here to some factory wiring to help keep it from moving around and rattling. At this point, we can go ahead and put our tail light back into place. All right. Now we'll go ahead and remove the passenger side tail light. Here's our wire connection again, a little bit less confusing, only 1 connection point. We'll go ahead and take it apart the same way. We'll let this sit for now, put this off to the side. You're next step is actually to go and reach inside. We need to break up some of the insulation that's inside there. There's a plastic panel at the very bottom that we need to pop up from the bottom and push it to the inside so we can run our wires back up into here. We just reached in and just kind of pulled up our hands and just kind of broke it apart, until we get access, almost full access, to that black panel underneath. It kind of snaps into place. This is our panel free. What we're going to do is put a notch in it so we can install our wires and run them back through. Then we'll put our panel back into place. Okay, you can probably use a pair of tin snips to make a V shaped cut in here to make room for your wires. I'm using a rotary tool. Either way will work. All right, now to help control our wires, because they're all kind of loose, we'll use some loom material to help keep it together. Okay, now the loom we're using is part number 459075-1. Let's go ahead and take our wiring, we'll go ahead and run it across. What I think I'll do, I'll just run it back up and over the frame, run it in front of the exhaust, over the anti-sway bar, and then we'll route it into this opening right here. We'll just pull the wire over and push it through to the other side. There's a couple of little parts sticking through, but it does come through to the other side. It kind of catches towards the end here, but there's an opening here you can work your fingers in and pull the part out, and then pull the rest of our wire harness through. There you go. Nice. Let's go ahead and take our wires, and basically once we get to the other side of the vehicle, we'll back it up over the frame once again. Then we'll go ahead and route our T through the large opening and up through our tail light pocket. All right, let's go ahead and take a moment and zip tie our wires. I'm going to push my wires over the top of the shock tower here. I'm going to use a longer zip tie than what came with the kit to secure it going through a hole that's already there. This way, you don't have to worry about coming in contact with the exhaust. We'll do it on both sides. Then we'll go ahead and cut off our tails. Let's go ahead and pull up our slack, and we'll go ahead and put our plate back in place. We kind of made the hole just a little bit larger to make room for the loom material as well. Wire ran inside, let's go ahead and make our connections through the factory wire harness, and our other end will go to our tail light. Let's go ahead and put our wire back into place and reinstall our tail light. Next up is to go ahead and route our 4-pole wire harness up to the front of the vehicle. When we do that we'll have to do our best to stay away from anything moving like suspension components, or anything hot like the exhaust. Once we get to the front and up to the engine compartment, once again we want to also stay away from anything hot and moving, and also stay away from the steering components as well. All right, now everybody's going to run their wire a little bit different, but this is how we did ours. Here's the wire from the bottom of our tail light. Ran it up and over the frame, over this cross member right here, over the top of the mount for our spring, zip tied to this line right here, once again over a cross member. We followed the brake line just a little bit right here, and went over the top of the frame. Basically, after we stayed on top of the frame we doubled up some extra long zip ties. These zip ties did come with the kit, but it's always a good idea to get extra long zip ties just in case you need something like this. Basically we just stayed on top of the frame and just zip tied it along the frame where it was convenient. There's our wire running across the top. Just stayed inside of the body mounts until we got to an opening behind the front wheel. Now we'll take our wire here, and just go route this up through here, and hopefully through an area that we can reach from the top. We'll go ahead and pull up our wire, make sure we take up all the slack. We'll go ahead and tied it off somewhere convenient. We'll continue routing our 4-pole end down to our base plate in the front of the vehicle. There's a small opening right here we can route it through. Let's keep working our way down. We'll go underneath and pull out from the bottom. Now to run to the outside here, this panel is in the way, but I think we can just go ahead and just remove the 2 plastic fasteners here. I'm using a trim panel tool. You could also use a flat screwdriver to get at these 2. You can kind of flex it down just enough to get our wires through. Let's go ahead and let's get our 4-pole ready to be installed to the bracket. We'll go ahead and take our cap, fit it across the top of the 4-pole. It has a little track that it goes into. Then we'll get the bracket. We'll just open it up, put it into place. It has a little groove for the cap as well. We'll put it back together. Make sure everything fits. We're going to take out bracket, and we're going to mount it in the center here, and we'll use self-tapping screws to go into the plastic. I like to take some electric grease, and since this is kind of towards the front, this is not really protected. I like to save the grease for the contacts here. We'll put our caps back into place. This is done up front here. We can just take our white wire with the ring terminal, find a place to ground it up underneath the vehicle, and then we just need to bundle up our wires. Since we're done, let's go ahead and put our fasteners back in. All right, now let's go ahead and ground our white wire. Now there's not much to attach to, but there's a round cross member right here that we're going to use. We'll use a self-tapping screw that came with the kit. We'll be using a 1/4" nut driver. We'll get the screw started first, then add our wire. I'm going to use some more of the loom material to help hide the colors of our wires, since it will be running right in front of the grill here. We'll go ahead and pull up the rest of our wire. Now it's a good idea to keep this within easy access, because a lot of times there are some supplemental braking systems that require access to this wire. We'll put it in an area generally right here, in case there is an upgrade to that. We'll just tuck our wire, and hide it up and out of the way. Okay, now everything's tidied up. All we need to do is go ahead and apply power to it and check out the signals in the back. Typically an RV would be used for this purpose. We'll steer our running lights first. Then we'll do our left turn signal, and then our right turn signal. Now this also proves that our brake signals works as well, because our brake signal is the same thing as our turn signals, instead of it just stays on at a steady rate. That will finish it for the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for towed vehicles, part number Hn56200 on our 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. .

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