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Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Colorado

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How to Install the Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2015 Chevrolet Colorado


Hello, neighbors. It's Brad here at ETrailer, and today we're taking a look and installing the Hopkins four-pull trailer wiring on a 2015 Chevy Colorado. A four-pull trailer wring kit is essential anytime you are pulling a trailer. Now that's because it's going to send you signals from your vehicle to your trailer for your turn signals, your running light and your brake lights. So that's going to let people behind you know what you're actually doing, and it's going to keep you safe and legal. Now, if you are planning on pulling a heavier trailer that has brakes, you're going to need to go to a seven-pull system, which we have here at ETrailer.

If you're just planning on doing some smaller trailers, this is going to work great for you. And it is module protected, which is a good peace of mind, knowing that if you have an electrical short from your trailer, it's not going to fry anything like your vehicle. Installation is pretty much plug and play. It's very simple, and really the hardest part is running a power wire up to your battery, but I'm here to walk you through all the steps. So let's get this trailer wiring installed.

We're going to begin our installation underneath the vehicle. So we're going to get to our taillight plugins, and that's where we're going to take our harness to attach them to. So we'll start on the driver's side here. So behind our leaf springs on the driver's side, you're going to see this wire loom and this plug attached. So let's go ahead and remove that by pulling back this red locking plastic.

Now, sometimes these plugs can get some corrosion and build up around them with road grime and dirt, so they can be tough to pry apart. Now don't lose hope. You can simply pry on the backside here and pull that clip kind of up, separating it and push these apart. And with our wiring harness, you're going to see the yellow and brown wires. And these are going to go to your driver's side.

So you're going to go ahead and attach these to the plugs. So just like you took them apart, these kind of just create the connection between the two. Once you've had that in place, go ahead and push the red tab down and that's going to lock it. Now you're going to want to take your green wire with the plugs, and you're going to route it over to the passenger side. And we're going to repeat that same process, but it's very crucial that you route this in a way that it's not going to make contact with the exhaust or any of the leaf springs or moving things such as the tailgate. And I did have some extra, so I wound that up together and zip tied it onto a hole and attached my clips. So passenger side is good to go. So I used a longer zip tie to wrap around the actual module itself, and I found a hole in the frame and that's going to keep this in place. Now I did it at kind of an angle to keep these wires from getting pinched. So we have these four that we'll run to our four-pull. We can set that aside, which is only going to leave us with a ground wire and our power wire. So let's get this ground wire grounded down. For my ground wire, I'm going to drill a small pilot hole. And really anywhere that's metal and attached to the frame should be plenty fine. This is thin, there's nothing behind it. I'm going to go ahead and put a hole here. Now we'll take our self-tapping screw that is provided in the kit. I'm tightening this down. You don't need to go too crazy on it. Just make sure that this drilled through and secure. If you go too hard and can actually round up the threads. Next, you're going to want to grab your red power wire. And as you can tell, they already had a butt connector on here, and we're going to simply feed this splice then into there and crimp it down. Go ahead and tap on it to make sure that your connection secure. From here, we're going to take the rest of the bundle and we're going to route it up to the front of the vehicle and the engine base so we can tie it into give vehicles power. So while routing my power wire up to the engine compartment, my main goal is to stay away from any moving or hot parts. So I have it running up onto the frame rail here, and I'm trying to use a lot of the factory wiring locations, and that way they're protected. Generally they are designed that way from the factory. So from here, I dragged my wire on the side of the fuel tank and then tucked it up. You can see the bundle of wires and I just continue moving up. So in this point, I actually routed it on the other side of the frame rail and that's to avoid the exhaust. And I found some factory wires that I could tie into. And peeling back this inner fender liner here, I was able to run the wire up and find the bundle of wires here. Once you get to the engine bay section, I ran a airline tube as my pull wire. So if you don't have an airline tube, that's fine. You can use a string with a weight or a wire hanger, or whatever you may have to be able to pull this up through the engine bay, making it easier. My fish wire, I ran underneath some of the Breakmaster cylinder hosing, and that way it's kind of tucked away from the exhaust. Our battery is on the driver's side, so we shut her out that way. And once you pull through, we're going to route this here, just so we can get to our battery terminal. Now we do have plenty of extra wire so I'm going to go ahead and crimp or cut that off because supplied with the kit is the fuse holder with a butt connector already attached, as well as the ring terminal. Now they put the fuse in the fuse holder. I highly recommend pulling that out. Do not put the fuse in until you're attached to power. So we'll cut this end off and we're going to splice this end and attach it with the butt connector. Now, final step, we're going to take a 10 millimeter here and loosen up the nut on the battery terminal. Our customer seems to have already taken their battery cover off so yours may be under the cover there. So loosen that up and you'll have enough there to put the ring terminal in. Now I am going to cut a little section of this off, just big enough for that bolt, and that way we can slide this over. Now, most times during a trailer wiring install, I do take the entire nut off, but some of them aren't designed to actually do that. So cutting the ring terminal was my best option. Now, since this is a heat shrink butt connector, we're going to go ahead and heat that up. My next step will be to take the fuse included in the kit. We're going to place that in our fuse holder. Place the cap on, and then you can go back and zip tie any wires that you'd like to to make it a little bit more clean. So now that we're hooked up to power, we need to go back and check and make sure it's actually working. And you can attach it to a trailer and see if that works, or if it is a little bit easier than hooking up your trailer, we do have these testers here at ETrailer. So now I'm going to run you through the cycles, our first one being our running lights, then my left turn signal, my right turn signal, and finally my brakes. Now that we've tested to make sure that everything's working properly, we're ready to hook this up to your trailer and get to towing. And that was the look and the installation of the Hopkins four-pull trailer wiring system on our 2015 Chevy Colorado..


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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