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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2015 Jeep Cherokee

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2015 Jeep Cherokee


Today on our 2015 Jeep Cherokee we're are going to take a look at and show you how to install the tow ready T1 vehicle wiring harness with the 4-pole flat trailer connector. Part number is 118605. Here your going to see what the wiring kit looks like when you pull it out of the box. We've got our yellow and brown side. This is going to connect directly between our factory connection points behind the driver side taillight. The greens going to run over and do the same thing behind the passenger side taillight.

Of course this is what we're really looking for. This is our trailer connection that will come off of the back of the vehicle. We've got a ground wire here. That's the white wire. It's already got a ring terminal on it.

We're going to just attach that to a chassis ground or into some metal underneath the vehicle and then we've also got our power wire that runs out. That's going to run through our 12-volt power wire that will run out to the battery. We've got all the hardware there that we need to do it. You may have to throw in a couple extra zip-ties or something like that, but just about everything that we're going to need is going to be right here. Now this is the modular box itself. This is what's going to take the information coming from the passenger side and the driver side and it converts it into a usable signal that our trailer will recognize.

The reason we're running the power wire up to the front is so we don't overload the vehicle systems. We're not drawing any power off of either of our connections here, this is just to get our signal. Our power is coming to come from the battery and then power out to our trailer. It's going to prevent overloading on any of our vehicles circuits. We want to open up the rear hatch on the Cherokee here. We're going to remove the two T30 screws that are holding in the taillight housing.

Do that on both sides. Those will just pry out on our taillight you see there and disconnect here on the back side by pushing down on the white tab. Now let's set these aside so we don't get them scratched up. We're also going to continue down and take out one and two more T30 bolts. We've got those here on the passenger side and driver side. Then we can just kind of pull up and out. See there's a little tab. I'm going to pull up and then out slightly and that should give us the room we need to get our connectors up from the bottom side there. We just kind of pull those tabs out a little bit. So I'm going to use an old piece of airline tubing that we've got here. You could use a coat hanger or really anything else kind of like that. I'm just going to polk that down to where I can get to it from the underneath of the car. Now we just take a little bit of tape. Tape our connector off to that cable or wire, whatever you decided to use. I'm just going to gently pull on it and bring it on up. Then we'll go ahead and undo our cable there. Then we'll slide that connector right into our factory connector there. Nice and easy just like that. Then we bring our taillight back in. You'll slide that together until you hear that click and then give it a push pull on both sides there and I'll make sure we've got it connected properly. My friend here will go back in and then we can slide the taillight housing right back into place. With that back in place, we'll go ahead and replace our 4 screws on this side. Now let's go ahead and just extend down our green wire. We'll extend down our 4 pole wire. Then we'll bring in our butt connector and our extra black wire and connect it off there. I'm going to start by just trimming up that black wire. The wires we're a little twisted up. A lot of times it comes out nice and straight so you don't have to worry about that really. Twist that up, add on the provided butt connector. Then we bring in our other bulk wire and we're going to strip that back. Give it a twist as well and it's going to go right in the other side there. Now we'll use a little bit of electrical tape and just kind of wrap that up. Provide ourselves with a little bit of a moisture barrier. All right, the next thing we are going to do is mount our box into position. Now your not really going to see where I mounted it, you can see the box here. What am I going to do is turn it so the back side faces. The backsides the flat side there so that faces the passenger side of the vehicle and there's going to be a flat spot right up here on the side that we can mount it. That's going to be right in front of a inaudible 00:05:02 that you'll feel behind it. Now we want the bottom. That's the part that has the rubbery feel to it. We want that to be facing down so we don't have to worry about any water or anything like that sitting on it. Were going to take an alcohol pad or just a rag with some alcohol on it. We are going to clean off not only the back of the box or the mud light, but also the mounting surface we're going to go to. Bring your double sided foam tape, take one side of that off and of course that's going to go on the back of the box and we'll peel the other part of it off and we'll mount it right up there on that surface. Now we've got our ground wire that we want to take care of. We want to bring that over. We'll run it right into the bottom of the frame right there. It's going to be nice, thick, heavy steel and we won't have to worry about any wires being inside. I like to make my initial hole with just the self tapper. Then once I've got my hole in place, I'll add the ring terminal to it and tighten it down and we'll be nice and secure. Now in this particular operation we've got a hitch so I'm going to be running my wires, both the 4 pole and my green wire to go to the passenger side kind of up over that. If you don't have a hitch, you can run it behind this black piece of plastic here. It's going to create a little cavity in the backside of the bumper, so you can run it right behind that too. I like to use the dust cap to kind of secure it that way we don't have to deal with it dragging behind us or anything while we're heading down the road. Now for running my green wire across, I'm going to go ahead and pull down these 4, 8 millimeter bolts. I've got 1,2,3,4. Then we should be able to lay it right over into that channel. Once we have it back there we'll just put those back in place. Now once we have it over here it's time to send our wire airline back down in. Just going to run this down that same path we used before on the other side. Then we''ll take our plug and tape it off just like we did on the drivers side there and pull it on up. Then we'll take our factory connector just like the other side and slide it into our T connector and then we'll slide that back into the back of the taillight housing. I'm going to push that trim back in. We're done running wires through there and then pop it back into place. With that back in place, let's go ahead and replace the 4 screws. Now I'm going to connect my 12 volt wire into my airline tubing. You can use whatever you use to pull your connectors up and through and then we'll use this to help us get up towards the front of the vehicle. As we run this, we want to avoid any pinch points or any sharp edges. Any significant sources of heat we kind of want to stay away from. Just want to keep it in a protected area so we don't have to worry about it getting rubbed or cut as we're heading down the road. You can see there we we're able to tuck right up over that exhaust hangar. Out of where our ground wire went in and we'll just keep going forward. Whenever we get good anchor points, we'll use a zip-tie and just kind of anchor it off to keep it from moving forward or back. I'm going to come right up over the main part of the frame there. Then we go right over into the . You can see kind of an appearance panel or a little protection cover and we'll just follow along that most of the way up to the front. Then what I'm going to do here. Just on the backside of that panel we're going to run underneath. I'm going to zip-tie this wire off. Were just going to use that brake line. That should give us a good anchor point and what that's going to prevent is any of this wire coming back past that point or any of this coming forward. You can actually pull down on that panel a little bit. It makes it pretty easy to run up forward here and I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket to back both of these off a little bit. When we get up here to the end of this, I'm going to hop over. Come out the other side here. You come right up there on that front point and then if we look right up there we can see where the break lines come out. Those run right up to the master cylinder there and that's pretty much where our battery's at. So we kind of want to follow along with those to get it headed up there when we want it. I'm just going to push as much as my cable or my wife, whatever your using up in there as I can. The more I got, the better chance I got to be able to see it when we get there. Now let's head on up and see if we can pull it on through. Now it's kind of a long way down in there to where it's at, but it is in there. We're going to use just like a coat hanger with a hook. This is a magnet of course, but we're not really using the magnet part, but I just want to go down there and hook that cable and then pull it up to me. Just like that and then we will pull all that wire on up. Once we get it tight, just like that, let's check and make sure there's none hanging under the bottom. Something I always want to do is anchor my wire off here once I get it up. I don't want it go back under the vehicle, we'll just go off that end of the master cylinder there and trim that off. Just like we've done with any other zip-tie we used during our install. You always want to trim off your excess. Now we are going to be connecting it to our positive stud right. Take a little bit of extra wire, snip it off. Bring in our provided fuse holder. We're going to cut that at about the 4 o'clock, 5 o'clock position here and we'll strip off each end of that. Also strip off the end of our black wire and we'll slide the butt connector right on to the end of the black wire. Crimp that off. The longer side of our fuse holder will go into that same butt connector and to the other end of that fuse holder, we are going to add on a ring terminal. We're just going to wrap some black tape around our butt connector there. It's going to give us a little bit of a vapor barrier. Then we can connect it right onto the positive stud of our battery there. After this, we'll need a 10 millimeter socket. Back that nut off. I'm going to lay that underneath and put that one right back on top. It's kind of going to camouflage everything. Now we just need to tidey up our excess here a little bit. Use a few of those zip ties that we got. Then we'll get our provided 15 amp fuse, slide that into our fuse holder and we can just tuck that down out of the way. That way it will be easy enough to get to when we want it, but won't be up here in the way when we don't. Now to test out our wiring, we're going to use just a simple test light. I'm going to use my ground grand on the exposed terminal. That's our ground, that's going to test to make sure we've got a good connection there and then we'll have the running lights or the headlights turned on. That should give us a constant signal from our brown wire. All right, now we can move to the drivers side blinker. That should be the yellow wire and there should be a flashing signal. All right, now the passenger side will be the same signal on the green wire and now our breaks, we should have constant signal from both the yellow and the green. All right, everything's working as it should. THat's going to complete today's installation of the tow ready T1 vehicle wiring harness with the 4 pole flat trailer connector. Part number 118605 on our 2015 Jeep Cherokee.


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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