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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Ford Edge

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2016 Ford Edge


Today on our 2016 Ford Edge, we're going to take a look at, and also show you how to install, the Tow Ready T1 Vehicle Wiring Harness, with the four pull flat trailer connector. Part number is 118669. This is what our kit's going to look like when we pull it out of the package. Of course, this is our main goal, getting a working four pull trailer connector there at the rear of the vehicle. This is going to give us right turning brake, left turning brake, running lights, and also ground. You can see they've got a nice dust cover. That way you can put it over the end, and protect it from moisture, protect it from dirt, and things like that getting in. That's going to come up to the heart of our system here.

This is the module. This is going to convert signals that we get from behind the driver side tail light with the yellow and brown wire. From behind the passenger side tail light with our green wire. That's going to convert it into a usable signal, to go out to our cargo carrier, our trailer, whatever we might be connecting. The great thing about this is, we're not drawing all of the power to work those lights through the vehicle system. We've got a 12 volt power supply here, which we're going to run to the battery, using our 12 volt power wire that's provided.

It has stand alone power, which is going to output 7 and a half amps of total power for all of our running lights. Should be more than enough to power just about any size trailer. We're going to get 2 and a half amps, and we've got 4.2 total amps for our turn signals and for our brakes. Again, with the limited use that we see with those, that should be plenty of power. We've also got our ground wire here. You can see a ring terminal is already attached, so that should be an easy connection to make for us.

To do that, they've provided a self tapping screw for us here. To make our 12 volt wire connection, we've got our fuse holder and fuse, so our system is going to stay protected. They've also given us some zip ties here. Now, I typically run out of these, so it's a good idea to have some extra zip ties on hand. We've got instructions to mount the module light. We have some double sided foam tape, so we can adhere that to a nice flat surface.

They've provided two butt connectors, so we can use that for our 12 volt wires. It runs forward, and also the ring terminal will connect to the battery. I like to replace these with part number DW05745. Those are going to be the same size and the same gauge, but they're heat shrink, so we're going to have a water tight connection with these. It's going to give us superior moisture resistance. Since we're using these outside of the vehicle, I think that's a great solution. Then for the connections, and also for our fourth hole, we're going to use a little bit of dielectric grease. This is part number 11755. Again, this is just going to help keep out moisture, keep out corrosion so we don't have to worry about any kinds of shorts, or anything like that. To begin our installation, we're going to open the rear hatch here, and we're going to get both of our taillight housings removed. We'll need a small screwdriver to allow us to pop off the square covers. Then right inside you'll see our screw that we can remove, and pull those taillights back. The screws are going to use a T-20 torque bit. Get those backed out. You can also use a flat blade screwdriver on them if you don't have the T-20. Now we're going to pull gently rearward on our lights. That's going to separate the couple of push fasteners that we've got, one two and three. Then right down in the pocket here, we've got a little tab on the inside. We want to push that, and then we can pull and separate our wiring. We'll get that done on the passenger side as well, and we want to set our taillights aside somewhere safe. We need to get our T connectors pulled up from the bottom, but it can be a pretty tight fit to slide them through. There are three little clips right along this edge. I like to lift up on that rear fascia, see how those will separate, and then pull out on this corner. It's going to open up a little bit of room there for us. That's going to make our job a lot easier. Then I'm going to use a piece of airline tubing. You can use a coat hanger. We just want to pass it right down along. Might have to wiggle it a couple of times, but it should come out right down here in the opening, behind our exhaust. As you see, we've got a pretty straight pull, where we can get right through there. What we'll do is use a little bit of tape, and tape off the end of our connector to our pool wire. Now we'll gently pull on that, and bring it up behind our housing here. Get that tape pulled off. We want to grab our dielectric grease, just a little bit on our connector, and we'll slide it into our factory connection here. You'll hear a little audible click. We can do the same thing on the connector behind our taillight, and get that clicked in. At that point, we'll push our fascia back in so those clips reconnect, and we can slide the housing into place. Now we'll put our screw back in place, and we can also slide our cover back in. Now I'm going to get a little bit of rubbing alcohol. We want to clean off the back of the module light there. We're also going to clean off our mounting surface. I'm going to be mounting right inside here, on this flat surface on the back side of the bumper cover there. Once I've got that cleaned off well, we'll give it just a second to evaporate. I'm going to take that double sided foam tape, and put it right on the back of the module light. Pull that off. Then we'll rotate it, and stick it right up there in position. Now we're going to guide our green wire, and also our four pull wire, over toward the other side of the vehicle. Now, of course the four pull, we want it to be around the hitch. Now you'll want to use your coat hanger to do this, or if you have it, your airline tubing. Or just a stiff piece of wire, whatever you've got. We'll bring it down that opening right there to start with. Then, so we're not trying to get such a large package through one little spot, we'll tape the connector going over to the passenger side to it just a little bit further down. Once we've got the four pull separated from the green wire, we're just going to keep running the green wire over to the passenger side. Then I'm going to attach that off to a pull wire that I've put down in the same fashion as what we did on the driver side there. We'll get that up where we need it in a second. What we want to do now is, just decide how much four pull that we really want to be down underneath our vehicle here. That's usually, about that first bend, that's usually all you're ever going to need. We can just bring this around. Use that dust cover to secure it off there. Just like that, and then I'm going to zip tie my excess, just bunch it up here. Tie it right around that little attachment point. If we ever need any extra, or if a trailer in particular has a short plug on it, we can just pull down whatever we'll need, but we won't have to worry about it hanging around, or bouncing on the highway behind the vehicle as we're trying to get where we're going. That should keep it nice and secure for us. Now we can attach our ground. We'll use that self tapping screw. We're going to bring it right up there to the frame rail, somewhere we can get a really good ground. Won't have to worry about it ever coming out. That should be secure enough to we're you can't wiggle that connector, or that ring terminal, once it's secured. I'm going to take the bulk wire that we're using for our 12 volt power. I'm going to go right up over this appearance panel, and try to come out back here on that back side. Now I'm going to strip the end of that back. We've got the power wire from our module box, and I'm going to strip back just a little bit further. Then we'll use one of those heat shrink butt connectors to connect them. Now we can use our heat source to get these shrank down. I'm going to use a lighter. You can also use a heat gun. You could use a mini torch. Basically, you just want to see it come down all the way, and you should see a little bit of clear gel, that kind of runs out of the connection point there. That's going to tell you you've got it fully secured. Once that's fully shrank down, we'll just pull out that slack, run it forward here, and in just a few minutes we'll be running that up to the front of the vehicle. But before we do that, let's get that passenger side plug taken care of. What I want to do is take one of the small provided zip ties, and I want to zip ties this up as tight as I can get that wire. You don't need to break the wire, but you want to zip tie it off to where it's nice and secure up here. That way we don't have any of that green wire that ever wants to hang down below the vehicle. Place our dielectric grease on. Slide that onto our connector. The excess wire I just poke down in the fascia cover there. Push our clips back in all the way around. Then we can put this tail light back in place after we hit it with a bit of dielectric grease. That will take care of the rear. Let's just get that 12 volt wire ran up to the battery, and we can test this wiring out. Right up here, we've got a good anchor point. What we want to do as we run this wire forward is just to avoid any sharp edges, or any moving parts. Also, any significant sources of heat or anything else really that might do damage to our wire. This is where I tend to use a bunch of zip ties anywhere I can, to anchor this wire out. Any of our fixed points like that, that will help keep it from moving parts is where we want to do it. We're going to go up over the top of these two rear cross members here. We come right over here, we'll have the fuel filler neck that we can tuck over the top of. I'm going to go right around the front edge of the tank, and I'm going to meet up with the fuel lines and the brake lines, and we'll go forward with those. In this longer run here, it's a good idea to get out whatever you use there in the rear for your pull wire. We're going to go right up over that panel. That will give us good support. Throw another zip tie up right here. You can see how those factory brackets make it nice so you can lay that wire right on the top there. Now what we need to do is head right up towards that front driver side corner of the vehicle. That pull wire is really going to come in handy here. We'll just want to guide it up so we can get to it from the top side of the vehicle. When we pull that up, we want to make sure we get all this slack out. We don't want any little loops in here that might cause us issues down the road. I'm going to get a zip tie started here, and leave it loose, and run that up there as far as I can reach, then secure it down. That's going to be our last anchor point here at the bottom. We want it to be up there as close as we can get it. With that snipped off, let's head on up top there, and see if we can find that pull wire, and pull it up, and make our battery connection. You'll see there's where our pull wire came out. That's a perfect spot, right there by our terminal. Keep just a little bit of excess wire here in case we ever need to make any changes, but we can snip that off. Run it down and under the cable there. Then we're going to put a zip tie on it. That's going to be our upper anchor point here. Once I get my fuse holder and everything in place, I also like to zip tie it to the battery table. That way, if the battery needs to be changed, it all comes off as one unit. We'll grab our fuse holder. We'll cut that at about a 5 o'clock position. Strip both ends of that back. To the longer end, I'm going to add on that butt connector we talked about. To the shorter end, I'm going to add on the ring terminal. Let's strip back the end of our 12 volt wire. It's going to go in the other end of that butt connector. We'll get it clamped down, and then we'll put a little heat to it and shrink it. With the 10 millimeter socket, we're going to loosen up our terminal there. It's only going to come off so far. What I'm going to do is just split that ring terminal, just like that. Squeeze it together a little bit. Slide that around, and then use that nut to secure it. Now we'll take the provided 15 amp fuse, slide that in, get that capped off, and then we should be able to use just one more zip tie here. Through the hole in the bottom of the fuse holder. Go around our cable. Then we can tighten it down. Now we'll be ready to head back and test out the wiring, and make sure it's working as it should be. We'll plug our tester in. This is part number I26, if you want to pick one up. We'll start with the running lights. Our left blinker. Our right blinker. And our brakes. With everything working properly, that completes our installation of the Tow Ready T1 Vehicle Wiring Harness with the four pull flat trailer connector. Part number 118669, on our 2016 Ford Edge.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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