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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Jeep Cherokee

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2016 Jeep Cherokee

Today, in our 2016 Jeep Cherokee, we will be installing the Tow Ready T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118605. Here's what our wiring kit consists of: we have two easy connect here which will go to our taillights; a nice little module box here and the 4-pole flat trailer connector itself; we have some wire which will run from our module box directly to our battery where we will install our fuse holder and the included 15 amp fuse; we have two butt connectors here for making our connections between the fuse holder, the wire, and the module box; a ring terminal which will go to a positive terminal of our battery; self-tapping screw for our ground wire off the module box; several zip ties here to secure the wiring along the way; some double sided tape to secure our module box to the body of our vehicle; we have nice instructions here which we will follow, step-by-step to make sure we install this properly. Make sure you read those before you begin your installation. Now that we've gone over what's included with our kit, we'll go ahead and show you how to install it. We'll begin our installation with opening our rear hatch. There's two T30 bolts on either taillight. We'll go ahead and remove those. Do the same on the other side.

Now we'll pull back on our taillight assembly and remove it from the vehicle. Undo the wiring harness here by pushing on this tab and pulling back on it. We'll set the taillight aside so we don't damage it. Do the same on the other side. We'll take the connector that has the yellow wire going to it. This is for a left side.

We'll plug it into the factory wiring here. Male end into the female end. Push it in until it clicks. We'll take our trailer connector here, drop it down through the taillight opening, and it'll fall down behind the bumper. It'll come out the bottom of the vehicle where we can grab it.

We'll do the same for our passenger side connection which has the green wire going to it. Now we'll take one end of our power wire that we're going to run to the front and drop it down as well and we'll start pulling it on through. Now we'll take the end that's still sticking out of our power wire by our taillight, strip off about a quarter inch or so of the insulation and we'll strip off a little bit more to go into the converter here. Slide on a butt connector. We'll crimp it in place. Connect the other end of the converter.

We'll crimp it on as well. Now, additionally what I'd like to do is wrap the connector in electrical tape just to prevent and dirt, debris, moisture from entering, potentially causing a short or a poor connection. Now we'll take the self-tapping screw, using a quarter inch bit, and we will ground out our ground wire here to the vehicle body, right below the taillight. Perfect. Just like that. Now we'll take some of the double-sided tape here, peel off one side, apply it to the back of our converter box, press it on nice and solid, take the other end of the tape off, and we'll slide it down between our bumper cover here and stick it to the body of the vehicle just there. That'll keep it out of the way of our taillight housing and secured properly. Before we bring our wire up to the passenger side, we need to drop down something to pull it up with. I'm just using a piece of old airline tuning here. As long as you have something somewhat flexible, but yet still somewhat rigid you can use that. A coat hanger works pretty well. We'll just drop it down through the taillight opening until it comes out the bottom. With our wire router over to the passenger side, around our hitch, we'll tape our pull wire to our connectors here and we'll start to pull them up. As you can see, our connector wires are barely long enough to make the connection, but they'll work. We'll remove our pull wire here. We'll plug our harness into the vehicle in here, just like in the other side, and we'll plug our taillight into this. With our connections made, we'll go ahead and reinstall our taillights now. Starting with our passenger side, we'll plug it in until it clicks like so and we'll reinstall our taillight assembly. We'll get the two guide pins in on the side and we'll hold it in place and reinstall our screws. Once we have them started by hand, we can finish them off up our driver. Remember, they are T30 sized screws. We'll reinstall our driver side taillight the same way. Now we need to route our power wire towards the front of the vehicle, so you can put it into the engine bay and connect it to the battery. When we do that you make sure you avoid any moving parts or any sources of heat such as the exhaust. I'm going to go ahead and route it up there and then once I have it routed, I'll show you where I went so you can follow along. Our wire dropped down from here, went over this exhaust hanger here, over this brace, over the rear sub frame and the rear swaybar, continued forward, over the rear sub frame here, down around this plastic shielding here. We followed that along, we zip tied it here to this brace that holds the plastic shielding. This will help keep it away from the exhaust. Then we used our pull wire and pulled it all the way through, underneath this plastic shielding, where it comes out here, just by the rear of our front sub frame. Now we'll take our pull wire that we used earlier and we will go behind this line underneath our master cylinder for our brakes and we will drop it on down. We'll tape the end of our power wire to our pull wire. Grab our pull wire and we'll pull up all the slack. Have a quick look underneath and make sure there's nothing hanging off anywhere. Now we'll take our excess wire here and cut it off. Strip off about a quarter inch of the insulation again. Take our yellow butt connector and crimp it down. Take our fuse holder here . You may notice that our fuse holder has a complete circle wire. We'll just cut it right here in the middle and we'll strip off about a quarter inch on each end. Take our ring terminal and install it on one end and crimp it down. The other end will go to our butt connector for our power wire for our module; we'll crimp that down. We'll take our electrical tape and we'll wrap up our butt connector just so we have a nice, good weather tight connection here. Now we'll take a 10mm socket and remove one of the nuts here from our positive battery terminal. We'll stick our ring terminal down over that, reinstall the nut and tighten it back down. We'll complete our installation by installing included 15 amp fuse into our fuse holder. We'll seal the fuse holder up with the included cap. The bracket we are using is just a standard 4-pole flat bracket, one we can secure to our valance here. If you want to purchase one of these brackets for your installation, they're just part number 18144, available separately on our website. This bracket normally is a complete ninety degree angle. I bent it back some here so when you attach it to the valance it'll stick out straight inline with the receiver of our class 3 hitch. I'm just going to locate it about where I want it. We'll take our paint marker here and we'll mark the wholes and drill them out. We'll take our bracket here with two screws installed on it and I'll push it through just like so. We will drop two flat washers here down on the screws. These will help hold it in place against our bumper cover and protect it from getting ripped out. We'll now take some small lock washers here, we'll slide them over the screws, then we'll install a couple nuts on them. Now that our bracket's securely mounted you can see that we have a nice solid connection here, we'll take our trailer wire connector here and push it on through just like so. We'll take our dust cap and we'll stick it back on. Now we'll bundle up the rest of our wire here behind our bumper. I'm just going to pull it back here. We'll secure it with one zip tie here around it and we'll tuck it back behind our bumper cover. Even though our installation's complete as far as making all our connections, we still want to test our wiring, make sure everything works. We're using a 4-pole flat trailer tester here, part number I26 on our website if you'd like to purchase one. Now that I have the headlights on you can see that the LED that goes to the brown wire is illuminated. If I do the left turn signal, you'll see the LED that goes to the yellow wire illuminate. If I do the right, the light that goes to the green wire will illuminate and flash. If I step on the brakes, both LEDs for the yellow and green wire will come on simultaneously. As you can see they're doing that. Now we have a functioning 4-pol flat trailer connector on the back of our Jeep Cherokee. That completes our installation of the Tow Ready T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118605 on our 2016 Jeep Cherokee.

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Employee Andrew K
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Employee Chris R
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Employee Cole B
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Employee Randy B
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Employee Brent H
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