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Tekonsha Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Lincoln MKX

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How to Install the Tekonsha Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2016 Lincoln MKX

Speaker 1: Today on our 2016 Lincoln MKX we're going to be taking a look at the T1 vehicle wiring harness, part number 118682. Here's what our wiring's going to look like fully installed. It's going to be tucked up behind our bumper and it is going to stay on the outside of the vehicle at all times. It does have this dust cap right here, which is nice and convenient so we can just hook it right to our hitch, close the cap and now our wiring is ready whenever we want to hook up our trailer. With our wiring kit we're not going to have to cut into any of our wires. They're going to provide us with some T connectors that are going to plug right in place, but it is a little bit involved.

We may have to loosen or partially remove our fascia. Lets go ahead and show you how we get it installed.To begin our installation we're going to come to the back hatch and we're going to be removing our taillights, and we're going to have a small plastic clip here. Just take a flathead screw driver and pop it out. Now we're going to be using a T-25 to remove this fastener to get out taillight out. You want to be careful when removing your taillight not to break any of the clips that are holding it in place.

Just want to give it a rocking motion and pulling toward the rear of the vehicle at the same time, and it should release it. To make it a little bit easier to access, we're going to go ahead and disconnect our taillight right now, and we're going to set it inside our car for safekeeping. I'm going to do the same thing on the other side.If we come to our rear wheel wells we're going to see six pushpin fasteners. We're going to remove these so we're going to have a little bit of flex on our fascia and that way we can get the wires behind that. We'll just take a flathead screwdriver and we're going to pop the center section out, which will take the tension off the clip, and then we can pry out the bottom section just like that.

We're going to repeat the same process for both sides of our vehicle. We're gently going to start pulling away with this plastic trim piece around the wheel well here. There's some clips holding it in place. If we look right behind here, right before the seam where the fascia meets our fender, there's going to be a screw right here. I'm going to be using a T-20 torque bit to remove that screw.

We're going to remove that screw on the other side as well.Very carefully we're going to start over at our seam here where our fascia meets our fender, and we're going to grab the edge of it and we're just going to gently pull away. You'll see the clips will unlock, and we're going to work our way toward the center of the vehicle, that way we have enough room to fish our wires down and run everything we need to. I'm just going to take an old piece of airline tubing, and you can use pretty much whatever you have laying around, whatever's just going to keep its shape. But I'm going to take my airline tube and I'm going to feed it down through the bumper and have it come out the bottom. This is where pulling our fascia away is going to give us a lot more room, and we'll be able to see what we're doing. My airline came out right underneath my bumper here.I'm going to take the yellow end of our T connector here, and I'm going to tape it to the end of my airline tube, and I'm going to pull it back up. We're going to go ahead and untape our connector here from our airline tube. Now we're going to take the T connector and we're going to match up the ends and we're going to plug into our existing factory harness, and we're going to leave this alone for right now. We're going to push our fascia back into place, making sure that it clips, that way when we go for our passenger's side we know that it's not going to fully come off.We're going to route our green T connector here over to the passenger's side. Now, I just want to mention everybody's going to route this a little bit differently, you just want to make sure you stay away from any heat sources like the exhaust, or any moving parts. If you give me a few minutes, I'm going to go ahead and run this, and I'll show you how I got it over there. The way I ran my wire, I went over my exhaust and I zipped tied the green wire to my hitch, going all the way across, then coming over to the passenger's side, and I zip tied it to the exhaust hanger to keep it up. Now I'm going to run the airline tube back down to the other side, and we're going to do the same method we had on the driver's side, pulling this back up. We're just going to plug in the corresponding connector to our factory harness here, and again, we're just going to leave this alone for right now.In our kit it comes with double-sided foam sticky tape. I'm going to take our tape and I'm going to put it on the back of my control box right here. This plastic panel on the driver's side, I'm actually going to reach on the inside and I'm going to mount this box to the inside of our panel, making sure it's away from our exhaust, and that will also going to help keep our green wire tucked up away from it as well. Whenever you find a suitable location for your control box, you're going to want to push firmly against it, making sure that double-sided tape is going to make good contact and it's not going to fall off.We're going to need to find a suitable spot for our ground. Take one of the self-tapping screws provided in the kit, and I attach it to the frame. We should have our four-pole flat, and our black wire left, coming out from underneath our driver's side bumper. We're going to take the charge wire that's provided in our kit and one of the butt connectors, and we're going to connect it to our black wire right here. Since this is on the outside of the vehicle, our kit comes with a yellow butt connector right here, but I'm going to be replacing it with a heat shrink butt connector, and you can pick up these on our website using part number DW05745-5. These are just going to give us a little bit more protection against any kind of corrosion and moisture getting inside of our connection and corroding our wires.I'm going to strip back one end of my charge wire here. I'm going to go ahead and crimp on my yellow heat shrink butt connector, and then take the other end and I'm going to crimp it on to this black wire here. I'm going to be using a heat gun to shrink down my heat shrink right here on my connector. You can use any heat source. I still want to mention if you're going to be using an open flame such as a lighter or a torch, you're going to be extra careful not to burn your wires or char your connector. In order for us to get our wire from underneath our vehicle up to the battery we're going to be using a piece of airline tube again. I'm going to feed it down, and once we have the airline tube all the way we're going to back underneath the vehicle.We're going to need to run this wire all the way to the front of our vehicle and come up to our battery. Everybody is going to run this differently. Again, you just want to make sure you stay away from heat sources like your exhaust, or any moving parts like your axles or anything else. Give me a few minutes and I'll show you how I ran this. I ran my charge wire, I ran it over the rear suspension and the rear axle here, and i came down, ran along the fuel tank, came across to this covered here, then I went underneath the cover, finally coming out right here right by my red air line that I just ran down. Put a little tape so we don't lose our wire when we go back up top to pull it through, and pull it back through.We have plenty of wire. We're going to need to run it to a positive post for our battery terminal right here, so I'm going to trim off some of the excess wire. Before we connect this to our battery we're going to want to put in the included inline fuse holder. We're going to take our fuse holder, we're going to cut the wire in half, and we're going to strip both ends of this wire. On one end of our wire we're going to take one of our butt connectors, and since this is under the hood, you can either use the one provided in the kit, or you can use the heat shrink one. But, since it's not exposed to so many elements, I'm just going to use the one they provided in our kit. I'm going to crimp that down. On the other end of our fuse holder we're going to take the provided ring terminal and crimp that. We're going to strip back the end of our black wire that we ran, and now we're going to take that end and we're going to attach it to our butt connector.I'm going to be using a 10 millimeter socket to loosen the post on our positive side of our battery. Now the nut on our battery here doesn't want to come off. I'm going to take my ring terminal here and I'm going to cut a small notch in it, just like that, that way even though the nut won't come off, I can take my ring terminal and I can slide it over my nut, and then I can tighten everything back up, and I don't have to worry about damaging the threads or getting this bolt all the way loose. Finally, we can put in the 15-amp fuse that is provided with the kit.Now's a good time, we can go ahead and plug our taillights back in place. We can go ahead and reinstall them. I'm going to repeat the same process on the passenger's side as well. We can put our hardware back into our fascia, put the panels back into place, and replace all our push fasteners on both sides. With everything ran and everything in place, I'm just going to go back, double check all my wires, put a few zip ties in place and just clean everything up. One final step is we're going to test our wiring harness to make sure that our lights will work properly. Here I have a four-pole flat tester, and if you don't have on you can pick one up on our website using part number I26. Now, with an extra set of hands I'm going have them run into the front of our car, and I'm going to have them run our lights for us. Here we can see we have our running lights on, as well as the left turn signal, the right turn signal, our brakes, and finally our brakes and our left turn signal, and right turn signal.Now that we know everything's working properly, we're ready to hook up our trailer and hit the road. This will finish up the look at the T1 vehicle wiring harness, part number 11868 on our 2016 Lincoln MKX.

Info for this part was:

Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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