Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Mazda CX-5

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How to Install the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2016 Mazda CX-5


Today on our 2016 Mazda CX-5 we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness, part number C56310. We have our four-pole flat already installed on our vehicle. It's going to tuck away nicely in our spare tire compartment, and it's going to be ready for us when we're ready to tow. We just pull it out and close our hatch and we can hook up to our trailer. Now, our four-pole flat end here is going to give us all the required lights on our trailer. It's going to give us our clearance lights, brake lights, and turn signals. Now, our wiring does come with a converter box which is going to protect our vehicle.

If we have any issues that arise on our trailer end, they're not going to be able to feed back and damage our wiring or our electrical system. Now this is a custom wiring kit designed specifically for your Mazda CX-5. Now that we've gone over how everything works, let's go ahead and show you how easy they are to install. To begin our installation we're going to need to get in our back hatch. We can go ahead and pull out the covering that we have right here and we can set this aside. Now if we come to the back covering over here, we just reach underneath and pull up, it's going to have a few fasteners, plastic clips that are holding it in place.

We're going to go ahead and detach all of these. That way, we can pull out this board right here. With the covering out of the way, we're going to go ahead and pull up all of our foam coverings that have our spare tire tools in them. Now here on our threshold we're going to have one fastener on each end. We just take a flathead screwdriver. We're going to pop the center section out, which should release our clip.

Then we're going to remove it. We're going to do the same thing on the other side as well. Then with the clips released, we can go ahead and pull up on our threshold. We're going to release it, and we can set it aside. Right underneath our threshold on each end we're going to have another fastener.

We're going to remove those as well. Now if we come to the end side right here at our back panel, we're going to have our tie down points right here. Now, if we get a flathead screwdriver and come to the bottom, we can pop up that cover and we're going to have a 10 millimeter bolt that we're going to need to remove. I'm going to be using a 10 millimeter socket to take it out. We're going to do the same thing on the other side as well. Now, here on our driver side, if we move these handles out of the way, we're going to have a cover right here. Again, we get a flathead screwdriver. We can just pop that cover out. We're going to have a Phillips head screw back here that we're going to need to remove. Now we're going to have one on each side, so we'll go ahead and remove the other one as well. Now if we come to our panel here, we're going to grab at the bottom and we're going to gently start pulling away from the vehicle, releasing the clip so we can gain access to our taillights. It will help, we just need to have a little bit so we can get our wires back here, but if we actually pop this cover off we'll be able to reach our taillight sockets very easily. Just take a flathead screwdriver in this slot right here. You can lift up and pop that panel out. We're going to see there's a small button here, and we're going to push in on that button. That way we can release it and we can pull our socket out. Now, we're going to be doing this for both of the gray connectors. Now on the driver side here, I'm going to take my yellow and white and my red, brown and white ends and I'm going to route them up behind my panel to get back here so I can reach my connectors. You're just going to want to pull the panel back slightly. Then you can just feed the wires into the pocket right there. Now if we look at our connectors here, they're going to be very similar to the ones on our vehicle. We're going to have a four-pin connector and a three-pin connector. Now, before we connect these I always recommend using a little bit of dielectric grease in the connections. Helps keep out the moisture and corrosion. Now, if you don't have any you can pick up some on our website using part number 11755. I'm just going to take a little bit of dielectric grease, put it in the connector, and do the same thing for all my connectors. Now we're going to take our factory harness. We're going to take the female end and plug it into the male end of our t-connector here. We're going to make sure that it locks into place. Now we're going to do that for both of them. The leftover connectors we're going to plug back into our taillights. Now we're going to take the rest of our harness and our converter box and we're going to start routing it towards the passenger side. I'm going to tuck my wires back behind my panel here, start going across my threshold. Now we're going to want to make sure the box isn't interfering with any of our panels and we're going to need to find a suitable spot for our ground. Now, we have a nice spot right here because it's not going to interfere with anything and it's still going to make contact with metal. We're going to take one of the provided self-tapping screws and, using a 1/4 inch nut driver, I'm going to secure my ground to the floor of the vehicle. Now our converter box. The way we're going to mount that is in our kit they do provide us with some double sided foam tape. I'm going to take one side off and I'm going to attach it to the back side of my box. Now I'm going to mount this box right behind this panel. That way, it's hidden but it's also easy enough to get to whenever you need to. Just take the other side of the double sided foam tape off. We can reach back and find a nice flat surface. Just firmly push the converter box against it. Now we can start routing our green wire over to our passenger side taillights. I'm going to take my green wire and I'm going to run it across my threshold here. I'm going to pull the panel back on the passenger side just like we did on the driver side. We're going to come to our gray connectors and we're going to unplug it. But on this side we're only going to unplug one, the one that has the three terminals on it, to match the one that we have on our t-connector. Again, I'm going to put a little bit of dielectric grease in my connectors before I make them. I can take my t-connector, plug it into my taillight socket, and I can take my factory connector. I'm going to plug it into my harness. Now, we do have a black wire that has a free end coming off our converter box. Now, we're going to be using some butt connectors to attach it to our power cable that we're going to run to the battery. But I'm going to be replacing the butt connectors that come with our kit with heat shrink butt connectors. Any time you see me use one of these, you can pick some up on our website using part number DW05745-5. We're going to take our heat shrink butt connector and we're going to put it on the end of the black wire that's coming off of our converter box and we're going to crimp it into place. You always want to double check your connections and make sure they're good. Now we're going to strip back one end of our black charge wire that they provided in our kit and we're going to put it into the other end and crimp it into place. I did mention these are heat shrink butt connectors, and I'm going to be using a heat gun to shrink it down. I just want to mention that if you're using an open flame such as a lighter or a torch you want to be extra careful not to char the connector or the wire itself. Now we're going to need to get our wire from the inside to the outside of the car so we can run it to the battery. Now, if we come to the driver side just right outside our muffler and our exhaust pipe here and we look up, we're going to find a grommet. Now, what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a piece of airline tube that I had lying around, and you can use whatever you have, airline tube, a coat hanger, anything that's going to keep its shape. I'm going to push the grommet out of the way and I'm going to feed my airline tube up. That way, I can connect it to my wire up top. Here's where my airline tube came out. I'm going to pull some of it out. I'm going to feed the end of my black wire into my red airline hose. I'm going to go back underneath and start to feed it through. We're just going to pull this wire down till all the excess slack is taken up. Now if we come to our grommet we're going to put a nice little slit in the grommet. That way I can put my wire in and I don't have to worry about it rubbing against the metal and chafing and potentially breaking my wire. Put the wire in, and we can put our grommet back into place. Now to help seal my grommet, I'm going to take a little bit of silicone and I'm going to put it around my grommet to cover up the hole that I just cut. If you need some, you can pick up some silicone on our website using part number LT37467. We don't need a whole lot, but we're just going to put a little bit right there on the edge to cover up that slit and help keep some of that moisture out. Now, everybody's going to run their wire a little differently, but we're going to need to run it from the back here all the way to the front towards our battery. I just want to mention you want to stay away from any moving parts like the axle and anything hot or heat sources like the exhaust. Give me a minute, and I'll show you how I ran mine. I routed my wire and went over my rear axle here, around the subframe support, and I came down right by my fuel tank here, went underneath the cover, following it all the way down, then tying it along the way to the fuel lines, and then finally stopping right here. Now I'm going to go up top and use the same method I did to get my wire outside and run an airline tube down. I'm going to try to stay as close to my battery as I can to help me get that wire to the positive side when I'm ready. Here's where my air line tube came out. Again, I'm just going to take my charge wire here and I'm going to insert it into my airline tube and go back up top and pull it through. Want to make sure to pull all the excess up. Now I'm going to go ahead and cut the excess wire off. Just want to make sure you have this secured around something. That way your wire doesn't drop back down. Now we're going to take our fuse holder provided in our kit and the large ring terminal and we're going to crimp it onto one end of our fuse holder. Now on the other end we're going to take another one of our butt connectors and crimp it into place. Now we can strip back the end of our black wire and we can put it into the other end of our butt connector. Now if we come to our battery, we're going to come to the positive post. Using a 10 millimeter socket, I'm going to loosen that nut up. With the nut removed, we can take our ring terminal, slide it over the post, and replace the nut. Finally, we can insert our 10 amp fuse that's provided in our kit. Now all we have left to do, put our panels back in place and test our wires. Put our dust cover on at the end of our four-pole. I'm going to go ahead and use this tester here to make sure that my four-pole is working properly. Now, if you don't have one of these you can pick one up on our website using part number I26. Now, with an extra set of hands, I'm going to have them run our lights to make sure they're working properly. Here we see that our headlights are on. That's working great. Left turn signal, right turn signal, our brakes, and finally our brakes and our left turn signal and our right turn signal. With everything working properly, we're ready to hit the road. That'll finish up our look at the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness, part number C56310, on our 2016 Mazda CX-5.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Cole B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Robert C

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