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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Mazda CX-9

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2016 Mazda CX-9


Today on our 2106 Mazda CX-9 we're going to be showing you how to install the Tekonsha Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with the 4-pole flat trailer connector. The part number is 119147KIT. Now here's what our kit's going to look like when we pull it out of the package. Here's the main part of the system, that's that 4-pole flat trailer connector. This is going to allow us to plug in cargo carriers and trailers and have fully functioning lights. This is going to give us our right turn and brake, our left turn and brake, our running light signal, and our ground.

Now to deliver that we're using the Modulite. This is going to be a circuit-protected converter box essentially. It's going to take signals from the wiring system and then that's going to trigger the light power to come through our plug and power our trailer or cargo carrier. N ow this box is a stand-alone power system, so we're not really drawing any power through the vehicle's lighting system, so we don't have to worry about overloading it. We're going to actually power the box from a 12 volt wire that will run to the front using the bulk wire that's provided.

Also, our fuse holder and fuse. Now our ground, we're going to use the provided self-tapping screw, and we'll ground that off to a nice piece of body metal to where it'll be good and secure. Then we've got the four signals that we'll need to tap in on the back of the vehicle. It's going to be our left turn and brake, our running lights, our stop signals or our brake signal, and then our right hand side turn and brake, so this is going to give us full function. Now to make those connections they do provide you with some quick connects.

I would set these aside just to eliminate any chance of failure. On our website we have a couple of heat shrink butt connectors of different sizes. We'll use four of part number DW05744, and we'll be using two of part number DW05745. To begin our installation we need to find the appropriate signals to tie into. We're going to pull the small cap and the two screws located behind it, and that's going to allow us to separate our tail light assembly. Gently pull back on that.

We got a small clip right up here that we separate. You see how that fits around Now the wiring is going to be on a couple of little keepers here. It helps keep it nice and tidy. If we pull that out, that's going to give us a little bit more room here. There, get that extended out a little bit. We're going to take back some of this electrical tape here, mainly starting from here and working our way out so we can test them. We want to careful that we just cut the tape here. We don't want to do any cutting of the wires. With somebody in the vehicle, we're going to have them start going through the lights so we can determine which is which. We're using a test light here. This one's got a beep. We're going to use it for camera purposes, but the one that's provided, the light on the end of it will light up when you have the signal. Let's just go through and check them. Off. Back on. All right, so on the driver's side here, it looks like the pink wire is going to take care of our running lights, so we want to write that down. Next we'll have our left turn signal turned on. You see it's working there. Off, and on. All right, so our green's going to take care of our left turn signal. Now with the brakes applied, let's check that gray wire. That should be the right one. Off, and on. All right, so we got the gray wire there. That's going to be for our brake. Now we just want to go over to the passenger side and pick up that right turn signal and brake signal. It was green on the other side, so we'll start there. Great. It's green on this side. Now we can start installing our kit. All right now we're going to take a piece of air line tubing, or you could use a stiff piece of wire, even a coat hanger, and we want to run it down, right down through this area, and we'll find it down here at the bottom. Now we'll take our black 12 volt power wire. We're going to get that taped off to the end of that, and pull it up through . It'll basically come out just like we see our air line. Now I'm going to pull through quite a bit more than what we're going to need, and we'll use that to pull our 4-pole plug down through. There we go. Now we're going to strip back the black wire that comes out of our converter box, and on one of our larger, yellow butt connectors, and we'll strip back the end of that 12 volt wire we ran up here and get it attached to the other side. Next we've got our ground wire that we want to attach. For that we're going to use a quarter inch bit driver. We're going to go right in here to the side, it's a nice flat piece of metal. You just want to make sure you got that tight enough so you can't move it around. Then we're going to use a little bit of rubbing alcohol. We'll use that to clean off the back of our module box, and also right down in there, is a pretty good flat surface, so we want to get that cleaned off well. That's where we'll mount our box. When we mount this we want this portion to be facing down. Put our double-sided chrome tape on the back there. Get that right down in position there. You want to make sure it gets a good hold too. You don't want that to come loose. Just tuck our ground wire down in there. Now the red, brown and yellow wires we're going to be making those connections right here, so we'll bring those over to this side. Our green wire, we're eventually going to run over there to the passenger side and make the connection there. Start with our green wire here. That's going to be the one for our turn signal. We need to strip back both sides of it. We're going to splice our yellow wire into that. You want to keep a little bit of extra length. There's a good area we can store extra wire in down there, so if you never need to make any changes, we'll be able to. We bring the two of those together, and we want to twist one right around the other one. We'll slide on our butt connector, crimp that end, and we'll just connect the other side right there. Just like that. We'll continue that same process connecting our brown to the pink wire, and our red to the gray wire. Now we're going to use a heat gun. You can use a lighter, or even a small torch. What we want to do is get the ends of these shrank down around that wire. There's a little clear sealant that comes out and lets you know you got it done. Now our green wire is going to run over, and we're going to be connecting that to the right side, or the passenger side turn signals. It is going to have to go outside of the car and then come back up, so we'll just use our black wire again just like we did with our 4-pole. Get that pulled down through. Now that's going to do it for behind the tail light here. I do like to take a little bit of electrical tape and wrap everything back up. Those heat shrink butt connectors really give us superior moisture resistance. We don't really have to worry about those. Put back in its keepers and slide it back into position there. Now just like we did last time, we're going put our pull wire down there to help us get that green wire up here once we're done. We'll just tuck it in there. Here under the vehicle our black 12 volt wire, that's going to be going towards the front, so we let that be. We want to bring our 4-pole and also our green wire right over the top of the main bumper support here, 4-pole we're going to have that come down right by our bracket. You'll see we're starting to run out of our green wire. We'll want to get about five foot of 16-1-1. That's our 16 gauge single strand wire, and we're going to splice it together with our green wire we're bringing over. Now of course this does mean that we're going to need one more of our butt connectors, the DW05744's. We'll continue running this across, and go over our exhaust. Use a little bit of tape and tape that off to our wire or airline tubing. Now we can use a couple of the provided zip ties and we will get our wiring zip tied up here to a couple of good connections points, to hold everything from moving around. Now for our 4-pole wire here you see we've got more than enough. It's really just going to depend on your need, how much you want to have available. We'll have about that much, will be a good length. We can just secure that off. I like to use that dust cover to keep it tidy, up and out of the way so it's not bouncing around behind us. Pull our green wire up. Make sure we don't have any issues with connection down there, and we can splice this right into our green wire or the factory harness, just like we did on the other side. Now we'll put this side back in. All right, now we're going to use our air line tubing, or wire, or whatever you decided on earlier, and we'll get this 12 volt wire ran up to our battery, which is located . If you're aware where your master cylinder is, is kind of in the left side of the engine compartment. We just want to ensure as we do this that we avoid any sharp edges. Definitely want to avoid any significant sources of heat. You want to zip it off anywhere you can find a good anchor point, just to keep it from moving around. Often times with this kit I do run out of zip ties because I use so many, so you might want to have some extras on hand. This helps us get everything routed properly. Once we get up to this portion, I'm just going to follow along with this panel that runs under the vehicle. All right, now from this point we just want to run up into the engine compartment there. You want to be careful to avoid any moving parts again. It looks like it's going to be a pretty decent, clear shot to get up there. Once we have it going where we want it you just want to put enough wire up there so you can be able to find it. Then of course when we pull through we want to look down here to make sure we don't have a loop hanging down. All right, now once we have that up here, we want to make sure we have all the slack pulled out of it. Then we want to get that zip tied off. That's going to ensure that we don't have any of our wire hanging out below our vehicle. We're going to leave, 10 inches or so of it. With that trimmed off we can strip that end back. Get our heat shrink butt connector we got. We'll grab our fuse holder, and we'll split that in about half or so. We don't really want our fuse to be more than six inches away from our battery, so you just want to keep that in mind. One side is going to go right to our butt connector here, and the other side we can run to that stud located right there. We'll use this ring terminal to do that. Just need to get a 12 millimeter socket. Add in our fuse, and we want to shrink down our butt connector there. That bit of excess wire we have, we'll just coil and zip tie it off. That way we'll have extra if we ever need to make any changes. All right, that should take care of it. Let's run a quick test, make sure it's running properly, and be ready to hook up to our trailer and hit the road. To test our lights we'll use part number I26. We'll start by turning on our running lights, our left turn signal, our right turn signal, and our brakes. Now with everything working as it should that's going to complete our installation of part number 119147KIT on our 2016 Mazda CX-9.


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