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Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Volt

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2017 Chevrolet Volt


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Chevrolet Volt, we'll be having a look at and installing the Tekonsha T1 vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector. Part number 118726. Here's what our wiring looks like installed. As you can see we have an adequate length of wire that reaches down right next to our receiver hitch. Now this wiring harness gives us the basic lighting functions that are required by law in order for us to safely and legally tow a trailer.This white wire here provides the necessary ground connection between our bolt and our trailer. This brown wire here is our taillight and running light circuit.

And on that circuit, we have a total power output of 7.5 amps. What that means is if we have several incandescent lights on our trailer for our taillights and marker lights, shouldn't have a problem there. We should be able to run those without an issue. We have LEDs on our trailer since they run significantly less power than incandescent lights. We basically can have as many as we want.Our yellow wires are left turn signal and left brake light, our green wire is our right turn signal and right brake light.

Now each one of those circuits has a total power output of five amps per circuit. Now if we have two or three brake lights that are incandescent, not an issue. They will power those just fine. And again we have LEDs, we basically run as many as we want, be able to tow our trailer just fine. Now this wiring harness has a built in dust cover here to help protect it from the elements.

One thing that I recommend doing is putting a little dielectric grease inside the connector and this will help prevent any corrosion from occurring. This will provide us with a good electrical connection over the course of time. We have dielectric grease available on our website if you like to purchase some.Now when you want to use it, it's very simple. You just have it closed down over your weather seal here to the side of your trunk latch. It won't cause any damage that way.

When you're not using it, this wiring harness is designed to be stored inside the vehicle to help better protect it from the elements. You can just tuck it down here to the side where your emergency tire inflator is, next to your battery and it's up and out of the way. You don't have to worry about it taking up any of your cargo space. You don't have to worry about getting snagged on anything when you're loading stuff in and out of your trunk. Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed.To begin our install, we'll open our rear hatch. Now on each side we need to remove our taillight assembly. Now in order to remove our taillight, we have two T-15 torque screws and then one Phillips head screw. Okay, now we'll grab our taillight assembly and firmly but yet gently pull back on it. And we'll find our wiring connector here. There's a red lock tab. We'll slide that back. Push down this black tab and you may need to have a flat head screwdriver to help separate the connector and it'll push back. We'll do the same for the other side. Now we'll take out all of our floor coverings. We can take out this wing nut here and then our panel was just held in place with clips.We pull up on it, it'll come loose, and then out. Now this panel here in the driver's side, if we twist this knob here, it'll unlock, pull back, lift up and out. On our driver's side, we'll grab our taillight grommet here and just pull on out. Use a flat head screwdriver to help it out. Okay, with the grommet peeled back, it makes it easier for us to get our wires on through. Now we'll take a pull wire and insert it straight like this pointing toward the center of the car. And we push it through enough, it comes out behind all our panels right in this area. We'll take our T connector here with the yellow wire and we'll tape it securely to our pull wire. We'll just pull the wire on through. With our pull wire removed, we'll connect to our harness. Push in til it locks, and lock the red lock tab back down.Now we'll cut a slit in our grommet for our wires to pass through. We'll place the wires inside the slit and push the grommet back into place. You may need to use a screwdriver to help push it in fully. With that fully inserted now, we'll take some silicone sealant, which we have available on our website, to seal up the cut we made, so no moisture could get inside possibly causing water damage or an electrical short. Now to get our wire over to the passenger side, it's a little bit different. We need to remove our threshold right here. There's a piece right here by the latch for our hatch. Get a flat head screwdriver underneath and it'll pop up. We can set that aside. Then we'll grab our threshold at the bottom, pull towards the front of the car and it'll come out.Now we need to remove our cargo net hook right here, just unscrew it. We have two covers like this on our other cargo net hooks. We'll stick a flat head screwdriver underneath that cover and it'll pop out. Okay, now we can grab our side panel here and pull towards the center of the car. We've already popped out the grommet on our passenger side the same way as the driver's side. We'll take our T connector here for the passenger side, the one with the green wire. We'll route it behind our panel and down towards our hole and on out. Make our connection, lock it in place, trim our grommet again, place the wire on through, and then push the grommet back into place. And we'll seal it on up. Now we'll reinstall all our side panels.Now we'll take about three feet of the black wire that comes with our kit. Cut that off, strip back the insulation from one end, attach a butt connector to it. Take the other end, strip it back as well, attach the other butt connector. Take our fuse holder, cut it right in the middle, so we have two separate ends. Strip back the insulation from both ends. Place your ring terminal on the one end, crimp that down. We'll take the other end of our fuse holder, put it to one of our butt connectors ends, crimp that down. Now the black wire lead, that comes off our module. We'll strip off a little bit more insulation from that and take the other butt connector end and we'll crimp that in place.Now we use a heat gun to shrink down our butt connectors. These are heat shrink butt connectors. You'll want to use a heat gun versus a lighter because this provides indirect flame and won't melt the butt connectors. We have heat guns on our website, if you like to purchase one. Now we'll take our module, turn it over, so the flat part's facing up. Peel off one side of our double sided tape. Apply it to the back of it. Press down firmly. Peel off the other side. Slide it on down here and tuck it up next to our battery box and press it firmly against the side right here. This will hold it in place. This white wire here with the ring terminal's our ground wire. We need to attach this to the vehicles chassis to a metal surface.Now the kit comes with a self tapping screw, so you could just screw it on in the metal. But there's a metal stud right here with a 10 millimeter nut. We're just going to remove that nut, place it on that stud. Okay, that'll give us a great ground. Now our fuse holder, we'll just pass through the opening here, in the front of our battery tray. We need to connect this to the positive terminal of our battery, which is located under here. We'll press in our two lock tabs. Pull up, then we connect right here to the side. We pass our wire like this. It'll fit in nice and smooth. We'll remove this nut right here, which is a 13 millimeter. Slide the ring terminal over the stud. Reinstall the nut. Now we'll install our fuse in the fuse holder and close up the cover.Now the reason we connect directly to our battery with a fuse is because this will isolate our trailer wiring from our vehicle's lighting circuit, providing a second source of power. This way if there's ever a short in our trailer, we don't have to worry about any voltage being back fed and damaging our vehicles' expensive lighting circuits. Now we'll slide our cover back in over our positive terminal on our battery. Now we'll reinstall our floor coverings. Now we'll take our connectors and plug them into our taillight and reinstall our taillight assembly. We'll do the same for our passenger side now.Now we'll go ahead and test our wiring out. Now it's always a good idea to test our wiring before we hook up to the trailer. The reason for this is if we have a wiring problem with the trailer, we're not going to know for sure if our vehicle wiring is working properly. We're using a four pole flat trailer tester that we have available on our website as part number I26. We'll start by turning on our headlights. And as you see our taillight and running light circuits working properly. I'll do a left turn signal now. That's working. And now our right, that's working. We'll step on the brakes, those are working. And we'll use our turn signal while our foot's on the brake. Alright, everything's functioning properly. That completes our look at and installation of the Tekonsha T1 vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector, part number 118726 on our 2017 Chevrolet Volt.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H

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